Mr B

Best option for home users with ssm1 socket is making your own ssm1 cable or buying one & using it with freessm software on a notebook.

Sounds good opertunity & plans Rick. Cars have changed a lot but it all quite quick to learn, most of it comes down to personal interest in the job as then learn easy & enjoy it. Good luck with it.

ICP don't do chinese tat They pretty fussy on quality so it will be up to the job. Worth calling them to make order so no issue of wrong part.

I would just use quality standard style drop links . extra cash would make bigger difference spent on decent strut braces upper & lower. drop links > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-01-10-REAR-STABILIZER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-X2-/171037535002?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ALegacy|Plat_Gen%3AMK+IV&hash=item27d2a1ab1a front anti-rollbar D bushes is the D shaped doughnut bush holding bar to car, could use powerflex or whiteline or quality standard replacement > expect poly-bushes around £40 & quality standard style £25 for pair . best checking parts with your car details as few variations in size ...

That indeed the ECU coolant sensor ICP do them & quite a few other sources too: * worth checking with them to confirm part via reg-chissis-engine number prior to buying * http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=4279&cat=0⊂=0&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forester-2-0-2-5-Turbo-NA-98-07-ECU-Water-Coolant-Temp-Temperature-Sensor-/271365238379?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Cars+Year%3A1999&hash=item3f2ea0ee6b Ideally want test sensor impedance over varying temp & see if it seems working/in parameters. Does plug-cable seem good. Bit of testing here good although sensor not over expensive if want chance it. Plenty of other things it could be & plugging in some diagnostics would be good to read faults & see what tenp signal the ECU getting if not flagging it faulty.

You would have trouble on codes readers for that model as expect ssm1 plug so need make own connector to use with freessm software, garage kit that works on these ain't cheap. If lucky you'll find something quickly/easily ..

Any luck with fault codes ! Ideally going need test some ignition components & crank/can sensors with multimeter & power supplies to them. Should be able dig up some tutorials if you google a bit. may find service manual below to help too > http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/

Quite hard do real long lasting job as does need all rust metal removed, pre weld primers applied prior to new sections added & likes of epoxy primers used due due high corrosion area. Inner side needs treatment too. Don't do bodywork myself & even in trade it hard get real quality, prices vary by 100% & big price not always the best work. Always get some idea on warranty against corrosion return, seen to many rear arches on nissan & subaru with repairs that don't make 2yrs & that shocking really with modern paints & chemicals ...

Re-linked to the front lower arm rear bushes just as confirmation we both singing from same hymn sheet N/S-left front lower arm REAR bush (MOT failure one) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 O/S-right front lower arm REAR bush (buy if want do pair, recommended) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 You can email or call that seller to confirm parts, I also suggest adding your registration number & basic model details to payment note if paying via PayPal as covers your **** a bit more & puts the ball fully in sellers court if wrong parts happened to be sent out. To be honest I could probably do rear lower arm bushes & both drop links in hours labour if all unbolted without a hitch, if original stuff on car & not messed up from poor previous spannering the Subarus come apart easy as decent quality fittings & engineering. couple of minor snags & 1.5hrs or 2hrs tops is possible but highly unlikely but a lot of garages like rounding up dramatically :-S

^ lol :-D to be honest I would still check pump for priming on ignition on as first step if I was to look at car as had scenario before where people say no spark but when get to test it, it sparks :-) Assume nothing test everything & start at basics is always way go ...

^ Yeh could of been a 6 speed conversion but seemed unlikely back in 2000 when he doing clutch job, who knows :-S Do you know weight of 6 speed box ? curious how much extra weight in that ... Front drive shaft are bit of mixture on 2nd gen vehicles with female shaft with stubs & male shafts too, vary on model version & even model version year.

drop links are super simple, just soak nut in advance with penetrating oil once a day for couple days till parts turn up.Only tip is if jack car up do both sides or the drop link will be under load from rollbar ... Lower arm rear bushes I linked to don't need a press as come with the alloy bracket so bolt on as is. They are easy but car needs be up on stands & bolts can be bit tight, you need mark a current mounting position & also make a central alignment mark from the threaded shaft of the lower arm that goes through the bush to a chalk mark on floor pan, This just helps realignment after assembly stay close to current setup. Basically you need undo big nut on lower arm going though bush then loosen 2 bolts & pull/pry lower arm down then fully undo/remove 2 bolts & wiggle/tap the bush off the lower arm. couple of rubber rings either side of bush & metal cap on out so observe part orientation for refitting. Bit of penetrating oil on things will make life easier. Fit new bush in reverse making sure it right side part & right way round. I charge 1hr labour for both rear bushes, it not hard but i'm on a ramp or over pit, working on floor with stands not so relaxing & also if not done it before you may struggle ! Ideally alignment wants doing after road test/bushes settling or even left until after MOT retest . For sure youtube will have rear bushes, they same on the inpreza so should find a good how to video or guide. Just be aware rear bush super easy do on car so whole lower arm does not need come off., one nut & 2 bolts and job jobbed ... service manual EU.pdf for 2004 Forester below as a bonus for you ... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

Yeh your linked bush works but needs fitting in original alloy bracket also that a caster adjusting bush & not what you want really Lower arm rear bushes I linked to come complete with alloy bracket & are decent quality & quick to fit. I use those for general standard replacement & do this for a living :-S Cheaper drop links can be had if you on a budget droplinks once again a simple job & half hours garage labour.

^ m reg was 94 unless private plate & no 6 speeds till 2nd gen.

That all cheap as chips >> drop links (top quality, mayle) less than £30 pair, Left & right are same part> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Front-Right-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-No-34-16-060-0003-HD-/361074352328?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item5411b560c8 You don't say if lower arm is the rear bush or front bush I assume rear as that more expensive but not silly money Lower arm (left n/s) rear bush is less than £30 > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 Lower arm (right o/s) rear bush less than £30 > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 ** Lower arm rear bushes best done in pairs, trust me on that as I got 20years subaru experience. If lower arm front bush then it > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTOR-2-0-TURBO-2-5XT-1999-08-FRONT-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-FRONT-BUSH-/300881735917?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item460df2f0ed or (easy fit) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SG-Impreza-GC-GD-Legacy-BC-BD-BE-Front-wishbone-front-bush-/271423547325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f321aa7bd or (easy fit) http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Front+Bush/1367.html EDIT: Okay you say front lower arm rears & that good as they super easy fit:-) Pair will cost less than £60

Probably STI as those boxes tend be bit heavier. might of just seemed that much bigger & heavier as u was stoned ! lol

^ in 1st post he stating he got no spark ...

earlier models had the split pin & splined stub shaft from gearbox turbo or non turbo. Pin is fork pivot & pulled out so fork can be cleared from pull bearing rather than the awful way of doing it on likes of evos.

What JDM model was that Rick...

across the range. pull type covers potentially have more pressure capability & retain desirable clutch pedal load effort.

Yeh your clutch is pull type on the turbo hence pulling shaft out for release fork . His fozzy is normal push type. Think gearbox is about 57kg.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?cat=96⊂=494&sec=1540&var=60&dc=y Blueprint do them too so any decent autofactors should be able help. ICP stuff is !Removed! good though & many time these parts are same source as original subaru parts .

Read page 1 & 2 of thread below & have a go at reading fault codes. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ If no codes try testing the ignition module against service manual data.

Yep well that ignition pack could be at fault along with some other things such as crank/cam timings sensors as if not picking up timing signal it will not fire ignition. Simple things like fuses relays need checking too ... What exact year version Fozzy you got ! picking up a bluetooth OBD dongle & using free software for your android phone or PC software (ask me for link) will give you access to codes, pre OBD2 compliant Fozzy can be checked by joining plugs under dash & reading CEL flash codes. You can also buy a ISO9141 compliant OBD2 VAG to USB cable for less than £4 on eBay & use that with the free FreeSSM software & you got almost dealer quality diagnostics. really is guess work at moment so fault codes need look at then checking possible components & harnesses via multimeter if nothing basic seen ...

either you got fixings left at bottom or indeed it corrosion on bottom studs. dowls can hold a bit (one either side at about 3 & 9 oclock) try heating casing around lower studs if penetrating oil no help. Had a few tight but alway budged with bit of prying near studs & box rocking. Ideally want support front engine as will droop down at front as box weight taken off engine, also lifting engine at front a little eases removal & fitting as gives more direct line.