Greenmamba

Regarding the fuel smell on cold mornings - check all the fuel line hose clamps/jubilee clamps in the engine bay for tightness. There will be 6 or so.

I think it's a suppressor.

The afternoons moved on a bit so the best I can personally offer, if you still have the car by next weekend is come through and take a looksee then. Sorry it's not earlier.

One final thought - if it was mine and suspected big-end bearings, I'd drop the sump and have a look before calling it quits.

Hmm. I guess I can't contribute a helluva lot. Stupid questions like "have you checked the oil to see if any metal filings", are all levels OK (incl transmission) have been asked? Gambit asked "when does the noise happen, stationary or moving", and confirm it's auto? Front diff oil checked? Only really relevant if the noise happens when mobile though. Could a skipped tooth or 2 on the timing belt cause odd noises? (on second thoughts, this would probably result in stored codes).

You don't say whether you've had a CEL nor if you've had codes read. They might not say anything useful in this case (seems mechanical) but I could maybe come through this afternoon and put my laptop on (Freessm) and see what lurks. Although, 2001 maybe borderline - I used it on my previous OB (2001) and it could show engine codes but not transmisison. I am certainly no expert. You sound like you're looking for a second (third?) opinion confirming fears already formed? Let me know? Is Op Stack still on, do you know?

Difficult to advise on the radio as I dont know what set is installed in your car. Sounds, though as the radio (if it's single DIN) dial illumination bulb/s may be gone. Can you swop in a radio/cd and see how that goes? The speedo over-read; how did you measure the 1.15% difference to stock - circumference or diameter? It anyway contributes to the overread, whether to the extent of 10km/h faster at 80 k's, maybe. Note that all speedos overread a bit.

Good to hear.

I don't know if Impreza's have the same as Outbacks, but just a thought if so - is there an aerial amplifier and is it working? The OB has wire aerial embedded in back window with amplifier for the signal within the rear hatch, feeding the radio.

I bought a Belkin cassette adaptor from Maplins last week for the same use. Put it in, kept on ejecting. Switched on the radio/selected tape, connected my mp3 player to the mini-jack, inserted the adaptor cassette and it stayed in, worked fine.

Installed my Hella Supertones

I don't have a smart phone, hence have to use my old laptop. Works just the same (I guess), still can read and clear codes.

Electrical gremlins can be brought about by dying battery, poor earth/ground points and all sorts of dodgy connectors. A CEL light on will log a fault code which can be read by Subaru - they could charge £60 just to read it via the OBD port. I use a Windows based programme FREESSM (free programme) connected via my laptop to the cars OBD via a eBay-sourced cable costing about £15. You need to get the code read then we'll have something to go on. Meantime, might be good housekeeping anyway to check the tightness of battery connections and check that the cables are as clean as possible. Any half decent Kwikfit-type of garage can test the battery and charge rate of the alternator, usually free. Careful not to get suckered into buying a new battery immediately they say it is no longer serviceable, however. It might just need a good charge.

Make sure the thief cant come back overnight and drive your car away using the key he pinched!

I used SKF bearing a while back, no problems so far.

Looks good.

Folks, Sorry to say, we're going to have to sit this one out, problems at home. Have a good one!

Howdy, Welcome. Nice wheels.

The pcv valve is in different locations depending on model/year. When you access/remove it (the black tubing needs to come off, then unscrew the valve from the manifold) the valve should rattle when shaken. Clean if necessary using a squirt of WD40 or suitable degreaser and reinsert; or replace. I'll try and attach a couple of photos, need to check if either resembles your motor.

PCV valve stuck?

I assume you mean the dipped headlights are aimed too high? Any work done which might explain this, if it's a recent development? Have they always been like this? Fresh bulbs put in recently? If so, they may not be seated properly and you'll have to remove the cover (grey plastic behind each h/l fitting) and check. If you've done this and the bulbs are sitting fine, there are adjustment screws on each headlight housing. Let us know if you need directions on finding these screws (assuming you've checked the bulbs, and there's no physical damage).

They don't as a rule go wrong quickly. My experience, for what it's worth is I had a droning noise seemingly coming from the n/s front. Had the car at a garage for some rust removal, asked them to check all w/bearings. They test drove, reported nothing found. Weeks later, car passed MOT at a different garage with no advisories. Still bugged by the drone, I changed the n/s bearing myself with a SKF bearing. Noise gone.

Sounds like wheel bearing to me too. What mileage, and have they ever been done? One way to investigate, if you have an infra-red thermometer is to test temperatures of the wheels, any suspicially hotter than others could indicate a bearing on the way out. Binding brakes, unfortunately will also cause elevated wheel temps so not too reliable a test, but there you go.

Good one!

I've 2 suggestions, both to do with transmisison fluid. #1 - check fluid level according to the manual. It's normally done while the transmission is warm, engine running, in park, check the dipstick and ensure the level is around the "full-hot" level (there should be 2 levels markers on the dipstick, cold low/high and hot low/high). If it is low, add small amounts of the recommended transmisison fluid (again, check what grade, should be in your owners manual, maybe Dexron 3)? Suggestion #2 - drain and fill with fresh fluid. You'll only be draining and filling about third/half of the contents of the tranny each time, may take 2 or 3 drain/fills over a period of a few days to get a majority of fresh fluid in the transmission. Not all of the fluid drains when you remove the drain plug, some remains in the torque converter. Final thought - if draining or adding transmission fluid - ensure you're draining and filling the transmission, not the engine. Don't mix the two!!