Tidgy

Ask pat the question and see what he says ;)

https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/subaru/impreza-sti/imprza-sti-spec-c/5050530 https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/subaru/impreza-sti/wrx-jdm-sti-twin-scroll-hawkeye/7085178 https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/subaru/impreza-sti/jdm-wrx-sti-spec-c-twinscroll/5248584 few others there,

Personally i;d go for the later model of the 2. If you can find a 2005 JDM then best of both

Classic is raw performance, where as new age is a tad more refined. how many miles a day do you do? what sort of driving, back roads/motorways?

Welcome. You looking for raw performance or performance with some refinement?

Where ever you go make sure you check exactly what is and isn't included in the quotes so you don't end up with a nasty surprise and are comparing like for like.

Ask the cost lol Issue with the block is how thin the walls are, milling those out and putting new liners in that are alot thicker solves the wall issue problem. Down side is cost, its not cheap and there is a risk the liners. You cn also got the the extreme of a billet block as well, but iirc the last time i saw one was about 15k, for the block alone :o

ah k, yeah different ball game and cost in that case. 2.35 is a tad ott for road imo, if you want 600/700 etc then best route to go, but just depends what you want from it.

If it's genuine criticism then i have no issue with it, but most of the storys i hear are flat out lies, that's what gets my back up.

personally i'd stay away from a stroked build for a road car purley because the extra low down grunt the 2.5 generates is much more usable in the road environment. Although you can stroke a 2.5 to a 2.7,,,, hmmmmmm, hahahaha Your gonna need to source a closed deck block for it anyway so may as well look at what options are available with any different block. Spec in mine is a closed decked 2.5, nitride crank (can't remember what the stock 2.5 crank will take so may not need this and not 100% sure which is in mine but is speced for it so if stock is good enough thats what will be in it) mahle pistons, manley rods. ACL bearings, ARP headstuds. I'm running rebuilt v5 heads with supertech valve kit. Getting the block converted correctly is vital, seen some right shoody jobs with the inserts just hamered in rather than machined and pressed in for a tight fit :o Speak to Alyn at AS performance about the conversion, he's highly regarded for doing this.

Why is it every time Clinic gets mentioned people come out and say this and that etc etc without justifying it. I get a bashing as well for supporting them, when did it become and bad thing to show some loyalty? I keep hearing about supposed over charging and generating work and every time someone says it and puts their actual story down it turns out to be garbage and half the story missed out? which is why i get so vocal about it, people make mistakes, their only human, but to lie to generate some sort of sympathy or beef going is bang out of order. I have never ever seen or heard clinic refuse to sort out something they have genuinely got wrong. So lets say a car goes in for some new brake pads and the shock is found to be leaking fluid, what are they supposed to do ignore it? tell the customer?, so lets say they tell the customer and offer to do the work, work is agreed and work is done. Now if a shock has gone, it will more than likely due to age and wear and tear so other components will be worn. What are they supposed to do then? ignore it? tell the customer? etc etc, So you have two scenarios, and this goes for any garage, a fault is found, 1. they ignore it, part fails, car crash's and garage gets blamed. 2. they tell the customer, customer agrees the work, the bill is higher than expected. garage gets accused of over charging and generating work. so which is right? As far as Andy F mapping cost, he doesn't use a dyno so there's no cost in the price for that. Now the next point was about Duncan, now your correct i have never used him, so why is that any different? In reality it isn't, however i have been around a long time and seen good and bad companies come and go, get a good understanding of good and bad working practises. So why do i have an issue with him? Well first off his working practises are questionable, second i see thread after thread after thread of people complaining about him, i see various cars at RR days with map issues. Then you get piggy who found out himself what he's like, a friends of mine had major det high up the revs range. I've seen him argue with most of the recognised mappers out there and has been drummed off of alot of the major sites by arguing with them, was in fact Andy Forrest who called him Dung Khan on 22b after he'd questioned andy and wouldn't accept his answer. Ok so lets be fair, mistakes happen, people are only human, but that didn't help piggy get it sorted when something did go wrong did it? He doesn't take his time to map cars properly, maps rounds faults rather than fix them, he doesn't road test after he's dyno mapped a car and he doesn't stand on when things go wrong. So that's where it comes from, listen to or ignore what i have said if you like totaly up to you.

I keep forgetting my car is yours twin lol

About 35-40k at a guess to be reliable . Basicly dump all your engine and running gear in the bin and start from scratch. Pretty much exactly what my plans are but staying 500-550. Unless your going to start going on track alot then 600 is ott for the road. 500-550 is a much easier target to hit with out silly budget , will be alot better to drive on the road and be alot more reliable. Higher power you go the less miles you'll get before needing an engine refresh. Personal choice would be closed decked 2.5, nitride crank, rods, piston, spec c big port avcs heads, a large amount if supporting mods like front mount, oil cooler, suitable injectors etc, suitable turbo, syvecs ecu, UK hawk 6 speed gearbox and rear diff, competion clutch twin plate clutch, full set of AP brakes all round, decent suspension and other things like arbs and anti lift etc etc 500bhp in a car that didn't have the right setup will be all over the shop.

Tis a fair point . But the prices I mentioned were more general where ever you go.

a turbo back for £600?, i couldn't find any reputable cat back ones for that sort of money let alone turbo back. where you looking? not an ebay special is it? Map software you choose it up to you, but i wouldn't use open source. You get no tech back up at all if there's an issue, my old hawk kept firing up a phantom fault code, had to go back to ecutek to change some code to sort it that's now included in the standard software, with open source you;d be stuffed.

Go have a nosey about chap, prices on the new ones are considerably higher than previous generations no mater where you go. I was pretty shocked when i saw the prices myself when compared to other models.

Was prob Dan you spoke to?

I only really know late 90's an on im afraid lol

Everyone knew as soon as the peak figure came up and all burst out larfing hahaha. Yeah there is much to be said for specing for purpose.

they go from the inside out so if visible will be bad behind

haha yeah seen that before, big oops.

I know of at least 3 RCM that have failed. not to mention, http://tdracing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/pump1-e1446316209905.png

walbro do various sizes, think i'm on either a 400 or 450 hahaha

I was being more geeky :p lol

Ah sweet, tempted for a set for the daily hahaha