Tidgy

Don't think they have a seperate battery for the locks so if it starts theres plenty of power. If the battery died did it leak or corrode the contacts? Did you replace it with a rechargeable one? iirc they get charged while in the ignition How long they last will also depend on how much you use it of course.

Shall start with the warnings and info to get em out the way The first thing to ask is probably what experience do you have of running a high performance car? Do you understand things can go wrong very quickly if your not used to the performance (trust me, been there done that. I killed my first launching it over a hedge upside down after dodging a stupid pedestrian who decided to cross the road in front of me. Not really my fault, but car was still smashed to bits), plus the rozzers are always on the lookout ;) Next is have you got a handle on the costs involved? They drink fuel, which needs to be decent so vpower or tesco 99, depending on how you drive could be low teens mpg. Keeping on top of servicing and maintenance is a must, Oil changes should be done every 3k miles (dont listen to anyone saying 10k miles etc etc), full belt and tensioner kit every 3 years or relevant milage. Don't forget that while you may pay 20k for it now, when it was sold it was 30-40k and parts costs reflect that. This also brings on the point that A its a 20 year old car and while japan is alot easier on them for rust etc, its still had 20 years of wear and tear and B expect it to need some bits and bobs, highly unlikely it will have had a proper service, oil change etc etc when it was sold so could easily rack up £2000 worth of basic service stuff, oil change, coolant, spark plugs, belt kit, may need a set of tyres etc etc etc, additionally parts will be worn, including expensive parts like engine, gearbox suspension parts etc. O dont skimp on tyres, expect £100 ish per corner for a decent set of something like pilot sports. Tax rates on them can vary alot, depending on where it falls, mines £760 a year (some imports seem to be cheaper some not) Make sure you get some quotes for insurance, including making sure you declare each and every mod it has or just before you do them. If you dont and either get caught by the rozzers or need to have insurance involvement, as soon as they inspect the car (and they will) you'll be facing charges of driving without insurance, no insurance payout, plus what ever other costs and a very black mark on your record going forward that will give you difficulty getting insurance on any car. Bear in mind im yet to see any imported cars that are not modified so the declaration bit is a must. So the good, Holy feck are they fun to drive, they don't say miles of smiles for no reason. Straight line they are fast, but not a rocket ship other than on launch. Being AWD they launch like a scalded cat due to the traction they have, but then they loose more power through transition loss (roughly 15% for 2wd 25% for awd). Back roads, well thats a different story, thats where they really come to life. I may have, 20+ years ago and in a different country cough cough, left a police pursuit volvo for dust on some back roads in a mildly tuned uk classic. In such a fashion i didnt even realise he was trying to catch me and too fast for the cars vascar to get a reading on the twisty roads. The funniest thing was i wasn't even flat out as i was just having a bit of fun on my way up to the garage. But just shows how rapid they are as i am by no means an expert driver. The JDM impreza comes with a 2.0 engine, twin scroll turbo vs the UK 2.5 engine, single scroll turbo, which you prefer is really personal preference as they both have good and bad points. Also they sound slightly different due to the exhaust manifold being equal on the JMD and unequal length on the UK. The JDM is no longer a forged pistoned engine as they were years ago, but is still good for about 400bhp ish out the box with supporting mods. The UK is a bit of a dog engine wise, it has various issues with headgasket failures and ring land failures with the 2.5 so 350bhp is about the limit you'd want to go to. But it tends to come with alot more torque, which for me makes them a better road car engine. Modding wise your only really limited by your budget. (prices mentioned are just approximate so could be way out), also should be noted some cars just tune better than others and it varies wildly, I've seen cars struggle to break the 300bhp mark no matter how they get mapped. A remap, exhaust and panel filter will see around 330bhp (up from 280 ish). Although the improvements in responce far out weight the extra power imo, will prob come in around £2k, At that stage your then onto replacing the standard turbo, maybe injectors etc to take you up towards 400bhp. prob around 5k ish After that you then get into 10k+ for an engine build and alot of supporting mods, aftermarket ecu's etc etc etc Exhausts vary from quiet to mahoosive bean cans that you can hear from 5 miles away haha there are plenty of options for suspension upgrades from simple lowering springs to full coilovers. Roll bar upgrades, etc etc etc (its a big list haha) Brakes again have plenty of upgrades, but most folks just simply go for a set of AP brakes which vary in price depending on pads and disks. (may need to include a set of larger wheels to fit them) One word of warning is to be carefull of tuners promising mega results etc etc, if it sounds too good to be true, it may well be and there alot of dodgy tuners in the subaru game. Dam that was a wall of text haha, but def important to think about it seriously. There's loads more to learn about em but that gives you a bit of info have a read through, Here's a link to mine which is a late 06 uk,

Strange, if the level is physically ok then could be a sensor problem.

Do they actually use power/batterys or are they passive?

I'd have a look and see what is and isn't covered. Prob find wear and tear items arnt, like brake pads/disks, battery, tyres etc etc Beyond that its a tad pot luck, could be you pay £700 and never need to use it, you could not pay it and get a bill. I would def still get breakdown cover either way, but can always go direct to a provider as mentioned above.

Rust can happen, but doesn't normally cause big issues unless its sat for a long while (months). Is it the ABS kicking in and its a case of water getting into the sensor?

Is it oil pressure or oil level light?

While it might be a 'special' car, other than differing bolt on parts and body panels, there's nothing really mechanically special about it compared to a normal 2 door impreza. So really depends how true replica you want it to be. Bearing in mind you can spec it however you want, closed deck 2.5 and 6 speed is my personal favourite :D Start point will be finding a Type R body shell and getting that into a decent condition then the usual building the shell up form there. Don't expect it to be a cheap either, I would budget 50k at least assuming new parts + shell.

Interesting opinion and one i to confess i share for city driving. I think if your doing longer range motorway speeds then the 6 speed in the sti is a much better.

Welcome :) get some pics up.

Just replace with a decent panel filter will be the best option, plenty of flow capacity. Only reason they are worth changing is if you got a front mount, then its more fitment that capacity.

usefull to know no matter the gen :D

get some pics up, but as a non runner its not gonna be worth alot.

I'm not sure tbh, i'll ask clinic tomorrow, or later today haha

assuming its what im thinking of the smart charging thing is a pita, its known to fail, did on mine. There is a bypass mod that can be done (what mine had), not sure what it entails though im afraid as clinic did it for me.

tbh i find down to -5 is always frozen at -1 lol Best bet just get down to -20, https://www.amazon.co.uk/JOVS-Screenwash-Concentrate-Icer-Streak-Free/dp/B0DNWG3CFC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2YKUKB4K9AOTD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uCn-T9xuJG_QULqsh8mJUwGC1ZCr-Wqjg12YBGba49k7TWTwpGy-rwgKLy4Z5p3trwsVN8kF5r8frAJNZKmIJr90zSzwSHXnNCKDXW-1ZeClp7nYKEwYLY3LsevNPDlfjpmDDS86CasIqX5UbrgnA3qAnI0EY-lW9ZzMSrKDqEysvTL-1opnmLlJYs-vtWD8pYp7YsxcACWX1crmOhQrKsgtpV-_-R7_Ej5-hCSQNCovaU2yluX7Y_CNDTGVq1wjcOP8dITkrzVgR4q66y2haOUKWqjQNyVK80FOZLRAqQ0.sS5WWC3pxSFn8OKABP_rE2v0Bl8P5-o8OZc70Vp7xWQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=low%2Btemp%2Bscreen%2Bwash&qid=1767629230&sprefix=%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-6&th=1 summit like that.

might be worth calling direct to see, they don't have every parts listed. Have you tried a subaru dealer parts department? might take a while but might be able to get one

my usual go to is importcarparts, could try there. Yeah its a fairly quiet forum, like most nowadays in truth. Still active, people pop in and out :)

Don't buy any upgrade parts from ebay unless you are getting know brands or from a proper known specialist who just uses it for an online shop. Especially critical components like the oil pump, you get what you pay for.

Did you swap the ecu? The imobiliser used to be linked with the ecu and the keys on the older models. so if the ecu was swapped the keys wont work the immobiliser. Could it be something like that?

tbh ive seen walbro look different even with different brands that are just rebrands lol but it does look like the codes match this one, https://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/ti-automotive-fuel-pumps-walbro/ti-automotive-walbro-255-lph-in-tank-motorsport-fuel-pumps/ boost gauge will go negative at idle, have you changed the engine bay fuel filter? Whats rpm is it trying to idle at? tbh sounds like you need to get it to a specialist and see what they can find.

XV has bluetooth connectivity as the wife plays spotify through it. from what i understand apply p[lay wasnt added till 2017/2018, but might be worth trying it and see if it will as im sure ive seen it mentioned people just connecting their phone and playing through the system. Initialy id just try to connect it and see what it does

The alarm system and immobiliser are two different systems and it sounds like you have an immobiliser fault. It's not unheard of for keys to unpair from the system due to age, but if both keys worked and now they dont i would lean toward the immobiliser rather than the keys as id be surprised if two depaired at the same time. Something to note, after 30 seconds of unlocking the car the immobiliser kicks in if you havnt started it. you need to turn the ignition on, then press the unlock button again to turn it off again. you may know that already but i thought better to mention it just in case you didnt and wasnt actualy anything wrong.

Yeah the first one just tried to scam you, unless there was some other reason they said it needs a new gearbox. Could be idle control valve or possibly battery/alternator related, sounds daft, but on our XV when the battery was really low it kept stalling when loaded up by the power steering or dropping to idle.

they where well aware of what they were doing sadly, i know of meetings that happened a years ago that they just ignore what they were told. Lets just say subaru UK themselves could have had a p25 years ago if they just said yes.