martyc

My first car was a mini ( 1987 mini advantage 1.0) and the rest (not in any particular order): I've had most of the ford range, 4 fiestas (inc 3 XR2is), 4 escorts (inc 2 cabbys), a couple of sierras, a focus, puma and a sportka; a 1990 gen 5 celica GTi, vw lupo, an AX GT (fantastic and terrifying at the same time) and a Saxo VTR, a Nissan micra, and now a 2003 WRX. Most have been modified to some extent, except the micra (11 plate, not the funky bubble ones), that was just soul destroying. I've probably forgotten a couple too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And if you believe in zombies they're great for escaping from them too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're better than a micro and fit a lot of shopping in the boot [emoji6] Active safety is great due to the good handling and grip, and the passive safety is good due to the strong passenger cell. If you love your child you actually need a Subaru...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use my blob day in, day out 400 miles a week in all weathers. In 9000 miles all I've needed is a puncture repair and headlight bulb! I had an oil change after 5k and I'll get it booked in again next month for a service and mot. It's easy to live with, doesn't cost the earth and puts a smile on my face :-) . Running gear wise there isn't anything majorly different between the new age and classic as far as maintenance goes, older engines more susceptible to piston slap but this was improved (not necessarily cured) on later models. Classics are meant to be more raw, new age is slightly softer but great for usability. Bugs seem increasingly rare too and have a marmite look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've kept the prodrive rear box, got a straight thru centre and 2nd decat. Sounds great, missus hears me come home (so the milkman has a chance to escape) and my driveway is 15m from the house, and turns heads without me getting the wrong attention. And looks almost standard to the average person. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Changed n/s headlight bulb and now practically need a skin graft on my knuckles..... And polished the lenses with toothpaste as they were starting to yellow and haze a bit. Another small job jobbed, next to plan replacement rear tyres and another oil change..... 400miles a week means these things are coming round far too quickly! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The oil can either leak or be burnt, so if it's not leaking it's consuming the oil somehow. Common faults are the turbo or pistons/rings. I'd personally take the car back if it's using that much, unless it's fixed free under warranty it's going to prove to be expensive Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got a Bailey vta on mine, don't think it does it any harm, have tried it with a standard recirc on but I found the noise of the Bailey addictive. Although some people would just call it chavvy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most remaps will improve drivability and economy (off boost anyway...) as well as peak figures Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A td05 would give more power but would require a remap. Td04's are pretty plentiful if it is actually at fault. Could it be a faulty boost control solenoid? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't we all? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At that age and as a keeper I wouldn't worry about a cat D, as long as the body is solid as that and poor maintenance is the biggest killer of older models. Check the arches, sills, inner arches etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Start with the basics, fuel, spark and air. Make sure there's enough fuel in the car (sounds stupid I know). Check that you have a charge in the battery, and pressure at the fuel rail and work from there really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4.3psi or bar? 4.3psi is very very low, I idle at 20psi hot and that's with 5-30, although the next change I'll probably go up a grade or two Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mundesley Norfolk? I'm working in the next village down at bacton [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You get it in the ear from your missus instead...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They prefer it when we're playing with other people's cars rather than our own, it's cheaper [emoji38] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's down to budget, what's available, and what you want really. I love the bugs and blobs, I heard the bugs are better vfm as the design wasn't as loved, but as a result they seem to be rarer (or they are round here). Either looked after properly is reliable and running costs wise there's probably nothing in it either. They should both hold their value well if cared for. I did read somewhere that blobs are less prone to piston slap due to a different design, I don't know if that's true though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I look like that..... Chubby people need fetishes too[emoji85][emoji488][emoji489][emoji896] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By the time the oil pressure light is on the engine is buggered generally. Was it all assembled correctly within tolerances? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If compression is low it'll be rings or burnt valves. It probably needs serious tlc, put it that way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Started my 2003 WRX this morning to be greeted with flashing CEL light (which according to the net is a major fault), sluggish no boost and obviously sluggish performance stuck in limp home mode. After spending the day at work stressing I got home in the dark and plugged in my fault code reader that threw up the following (12 faults in total but some of the codes were replicated) P0502 P0503 P0851 P1152 P1153 P1518 After having a heart attack at the list (which didn't change even after deletion) I set to work on Google. I found on NASIOC that this can be caused by the green test connectors being connected under the dash. Despite not having touched them they had manage to align themselves well enough to come into contact causing the massive list of faults, limp home mode and a major CEL fault. Moved apart, reset codes again and back to perfection. After feeling like a complete pleb, but glad that it had not cost me a penny I have a happy car and happy wallet. I hope this helps someone who may find themselves in a blind panic one day like I did! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just pop the clock up and the wires are even marked on the plug, with all the feeds you need, +, Earth, sw + and lights, it's like Subaru knew gauges would be installed! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got boost and oil pressure, the easiest way I found was to install the oil pressure in the oe location (under alternator) with a t piece so you retain the oe switch. The boost gauge I tee'd into the dump valve vacuum although people say it should go directly into the fannymould for a more accurate reading it works fine for me. The oil temp can go into the block where there is a galley plug under the intercooler. I took the power feeds for the gauges from behind the clock and made a loom and wrapped it in tape to protect it and blend in under the dash to my pillar pod Hope this helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, as I've said before I have now had my job moved from 3 miles away to nearly 40 miles away, it is likely to stay this way for all of next year if not beyond. So rather than do 350+ miles a week in the scoob I'm debating buying a daily diesel cheapy run about. Been looking at the VAG group cars (fabia vrs, Ibiza TDI, golf TDI etc), something that will be cheap to run but be capable of hyper miles. My budget is 2k tops so anything I get will probably be fairly leggy in the first place, but I've worked out that if I'm spending £7 a day on fuel, rather than £13 I stand to save an average of £1400 a year in fuel. Does this sound like a viable option? Bearing in mind I'm 32 so insurance is peanuts (2003 wrx, £400 a year inc business mileage!). I'm thinking keep the scoob loved cherished and driven for everything apart from work, and the diseasel for work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk