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Scooby Pete

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Everything posted by Scooby Pete

  1. Shocks= dampers You can by a complete set of coil overs which is both springs and shocks. Or you can buy just shocks or just springs.
  2. There are basically 2 parts to suspension, springs dampers both these together are a coilover, as the spring (coil) sit over the damper. You can lower you car just by changing the springs keeping you original dampers or you can change both the dampers and springs which would allow you to adjust all aspects of the suspension. How hard it is, camber, rebound rate and loads more. Helps if you know what your doing with these set ups. It depends on what set up you are looking for. If it just looks over adjustability I would save some cash and just lower it by changing the springs to Eibach or H&R.
  3. There's also Eibach, Bilstien, Koni plus quite a few others all depends on budget. http://www.just-subaru.com/suspension-blob-eye-69509-0.html Give ome of the Subaru specialist a call and see what they advise for your budget. As Performance have a good rep. http://asperformance.com/contact/
  4. Only thing with the megs is that you have to have the quick detailing spray to lubricate it. The Bilt Hamber works with just water so saves you the £16 for the spray and the B&H clay cost just under £11 so it better value for money. They also do 3 compounds regular medium and soft. So for the price of the megs kit you can get a regular and soft. http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
  5. That's the car I am in at the mo. Have seen you in a blue BMW m3 and an 05 Impreza, have seen Glouson in a 22B. Not seen Dog yet myself. Btw did you VIP? Both you and Dog have a Crown.
  6. Tbh I don't think it makes a bit of difference who the driveatar is as in name, it's either an easy, medium, hard or insane driveatar. If you choose to race me its the average driveatar and it just puts on a Scoobypete suit when you race it, when I race you it's prob the same as any highly skilled driveatar. It's not as if they take different lines or breaking points depending on if it's dog or you I'm am racing.
  7. Thought so, I don't play them enough to rate any higher :)
  8. Did you replace the pullies and tensioner? If not then there is some slack in the tensioner which puts the teeth off slightly. As Savage said ut could be ok, however I would rather replace the tensioner and pullies as it much cheaper than a rebuild if all goes wrong.
  9. Cheers but it's not the xp level is the drivatar rating. When you pull up next to them it says Average driver Pro Highly skilled etc. Raced gambit and was so far ahead I took a short cut that wasn't there and lost
  10. I had totally the wrong car for that :) Must admit I've spent quite a fair amount of time off road cross country to get to poi's. The number 13 bucket list in the bowler was a hoot. Going flat out into a tree, bouncing off and just carry on. We should get you me gambit and dog on together at some point. Btw what level does my drivatar come up as?
  11. Have to say this is very arcadey in gameplay, doesn't seem anyhwere near as technicle as Forza does.
  12. I'd stick with B&H tbh. I have migures at the mo and will be switching to B&H when this one is dead.
  13. There a polish company make them both salsa king and I have the same ones. Can only find 08 onward though http://stores.ebay.co.uk/J-J-automotive/SUBARU-/_i.html?_fsub=630846010&_sid=89134890&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 This is the companies web site no earlier than 08 again. http://www.e-heko.com/en/Marka/SUBARU/ Not really helping much am I? :(
  14. Haven't really had a chance to play the demo that much, too me a few tries to even do the cross country stage in the Evo. The game looks great though. Had it on preorder from Game for awhile now. Get some free cars and livery in the day one edition and a ferrari California exclusive when ordered through Game.
  15. I remember trying one once, everytime you went past a shop it would go off having detected the security things at the door. They've prob moved on a bit now and aren't as bad. Still you don't seem to see many threads around the forums these days???
  16. Ditto early to mid 40's still think I'm a teenager, which end of that scale varies depending on what im doing at the time
  17. Just ordered some gold carbon dipping stuff, going to try and do the A pillar bits of my wing mirrors this weekend.
  18. The helicoils wouldn't bother me, I know from experience that the steel bolts tend to chew up the alloy thread in the calliper. I had to get mine helicoiled when I swapped discs. It's quite common with alloy callipers.
  19. Ive used EBC turbo grooved and Turrox, Turrox warped on me EBC have not missed a beat imho.
  20. Regards the warped discs. It's hard to see by eye they only have to be slightly warped to cause judder So an easy way to check is to jack the car up off all four wheels if poss. Take the wheel off and hold something like a pencil or the end of a pen against the disc, get a mate to spin the other front wheel and see if the disc moves away or pushes the implement. If it does then I'm afraid you've got a warped disc.
  21. If you fitted them yourself did you clean the hub properly? If there a bit of crud on the hub the discs won't seat properly and will be crooked Possibly causing the wobble. Also have you checked all the bushes and rubbers on the front track rod arms and wish bones? May even be a bearing issue altough both these should be pretty evident weather breaking or not. Wheel balance issues generally only show up at a small range of speed. Say between 50-60mph they either smooth out or get worse depending on how bad out of balance they are. The same as buckled wheels both these issue manifest weather breaking or not.
  22. Warped discs seems the most likely cause especially if it's when brakes applied.
  23. Booked for Sunday only will be doing RYB aswell.
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