Scooby Pete

The rally flaps came with a metal bracket. If I remember rightly they fixed to a piece of the body work at the back inside corner of the wheel well. Your flaps look quite rigid, if you offer them up does the inside corner of the flap meet the body work anywhere? Have a look at this page. http://www.oakos.com/product_docs/RA-MF1.pdf There's is a pic near the bottom showing the fixing point for the inner rear wheel arch.

I had some rally mud flaps and the were fixed to the car through the 3 holes in the rear bumper. Seems logical that you would use the fixing points as well.

I used red pre mixed antifreeze , not sure on the amount you need though. Also forgot to mention when refilling the system make sure the cabin heater is on and set to max heat.

As far as I know there shouldn't be a rad cap. The filling is all done via the header tank. Sounds like it's got either a small pin hole leak or an air lock somewhere. Get it upto temp and check the rad for any leaks and the hoses for any leaks. These tend to only show when the system is upto pressure. If no leaks the drain the system and refill it same as if you replace the rad. My top tip is to refill the system is remove the top hose from the rad and fill the system up through the top hose. Also take the cap of the header tank. (It's easy to create air locks filling via the header tank) When you have filled the water upto the top of the top hose, start the car and wait for the thermostat to open (water will disappear from the top hose and should be now be pumped out the top of the rad). With engine running reconnect the top hose and top the system up via the header tank. Only fill the car with the recommended amount of coolant the header tank doesn't need to be full of water as it's really just an expansion tank and only fills up when the system in upto temp and under pressure. This should clear the airlock. Bear in mind when the thermostat opens the water will be hot! Having just mentioned the thermostat this could also be at fault, I had one that wasn't opening fully and was causing overheating issues. You can tell if the thermostat isn't working as the water will be not pumped around the engine and coming out the outlet at the top of the rad.

sorry thats all I had. hopefully some tech guru can shed some light.

Sounds like it might be over boosting or over fueling. When you replaced the pipes did you replace them with same size pipes and refitted the restrictors?

Congrats, you always seem to get better service with the independents over the franchises. Yay for the small guys. Enjoy the car :D

Shame they don't do HUD's for cars. If it's good enough to fly a plane at high speed low level surely it would work for cars. The only aftermarket one's I've seen was just speed or satnavs. Having the guagues on the windscreen would be so much better.

If you want something to display det then look at a knock link. http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/knocklink_g4 I had one of their original Knock links in my classic, and removed the LEDs and mounted them in the dash itself with the box hidden away. You might still be able to get these 2nd hand on eBay.

Which really means if you have to ask, you can't afford it :D

There no precise science to it, as long as they are not over or under inflated go with what you feel best.

I run 30psi rear 32psi front, this on 17" though. If you can get the tyres filled with nitrogen rather than compressed air. It's an inert gas so doesn't expand when heated. Means the tyre pressure is constant. Most Kwickfit and ATS can do this.

Cam belt is doable but a real pain in the **** when the engine is in the car. My engine was out and I tried to do the cam belt myself, didn't buy the full kit just a new cam belt. When I fitted the new belt using the old pulleys, it was about half a tooth out on one cam. When I put it back in the car the engine ran but was very lumpy and luckily it didn't cause any damage, ended up getting the belt replaced by a specialist. Cost me £300 all in, the whole cambelt kit and fitting.

Yeah more than likely but at least buying a pioneer one you don't have any compatibility issues. I've been looking for a while and there don't seem to be many cameras with the guidelines unless you get a kit with a separate monitor included. The pioneer from the US it will be about £250 at the mo. So it could be worth ordering from there and shipping it over. Obviously not as cheap as a 3rd party kit but a much neater solution.

Pioneer do 2 reversing cams. The Pioneer ND-BC6 http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/25/38/301/ND-BC6/page.html is quite cheap but It does not have the guid lines which I found out after installing it :( The Pioneer ND-BC20PA http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/25/38/301/ND-BC20PA/page.html is the one that has the guidelines but @£400 it's a lot more expensive. It can be bought much cheaper in the states and as my mums off to New York in June, I'm going to get her to buy one whilst there.

Still think the wheels and wheel arches are to small, still a positive review, all they need to do now is enter the WRC and we'll all be happy.

Never can get enough 22B action, Deffo on my lottery car wish list.

welcome along :) Personally its a bit too much for me, but who gives a fig what i think :D as long as you like it. BTW I love the wheels.

Sorry guys I can't make it as I have to watch the puppy tomorrow, she's too young to be taken out, otherwise I would have brought her along.

Found this on scabby net. Also may help http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/faq/PID=1647.html

Mine was a PPP so didn't come with sat nav :( nor the shiny red start button :( :(

Its meet time for the last time in 2013. As ever, it's at The Fairmile in Cobham. Full address for the pub is: The Fairmile Portsmouth Road Cobham Surrey KT11 1BW Kicks off from 13:00pm onwards. As with the last couple of months, before adding your name to the list, please ensure that you read the following: Meet rules: 1. No idiotic driving on the roads surrounding the Fairmile 2. No damaging the Fairmile grass 3. No leaving litter/cans/pint glasses on the Fairmile grass 4. Do not partake in any other idiotic behaviour that gives Surrey Scoobies a bad name By putting your name in this thread you accept the above. In addition we ask that only Japanese cars park on the grass please. Members are more than welcome to come down in non-Jap cars (or bring friends) but please, Japanese only parked on the grass (there is a second car park to the rear of the Fairmile if you don't want to park in the main area). Cheers folks! :thumb:

That's a real shame. RIP Paul.

I would think so, it's not normally posted up until the week before. As soon as it is I post it on here.