stants

Yes mate you can tune esl mapped cars with their cable, The evoscan cable should allow you to map flashable ecu's Www.evoscan.com Mines odb 1 which i don't thinkbe compatable with yours. Unless you have the older ssm plug aswell ? I'll post up a close up pic so you can double check mate

Ooh smarty pants dave !

Pagid ones are reasonably priced and good quality

I wanted a small internal one for the front window to avoid it being eaten by the wipers

They may not be interchangeabl, not sen the new age ones but I thought it may be worth a mention to try before splashing more cash

Mr b do you have a link that doesn't use Google drive ? I've got an evoscan cable plus there software but it doesn't display cel codes that we'll hoping the ssm 1 will work save spending on an esl cable & software

Yep go on outside mate

Can you swap the front and rear over ? If it shifts the code to the one that you know is good then may not be the sensor it's self

And only one seat so pretty much useless unless you want to get to the shops even quicker, Re exhaust, ash has a turbo back 3" system that I think will fit yours may be worth a pm to him

Sweet we can't be as bad a some members here last year haha

Is that the link Mr b posted ? Can't see as on phone

You'll need the cable as ssm can't talk to an elm protocol. Still for the sake of a couple quid it's worth it, do you have the ssm 1 or ssm2 downloaded ?

Didn't last year but may pluck up the courage this time round [emoji15]

40k gets you Simon roe's ( jolly green monster) drag car (if still for sale) do it ! Although I'm sure your misses won't be too pleased

If yours is newer than 99 you can use odb2 to read codes, some scanners also support ssm but it's not essential. If you got the cable and pc ssm software you could do a lot more with it but for investagating & clearing codes what you have should be fine

Thought as much just didn't want to fook it up and get angry with myself, I'll have a look when I get back to work

Excellent cheers mate, mine uses the same shape as bug eye so I guess they aren't sealed bulb units, of they are does the whole lot come out of the wing ?

Is it as simple as getting a flat blade and popping out or are they attached somewhere? Don't want to have a go and break or damage the paint

Yep. Went to the finale in sept was a good say out so hopefully this one will be warmer and busier

Yeah mines loud on start up and cold idle but soon quietens down when warm. Still thinking of running at pod in July so I'll get somone to film it

Louder sound mate, have a cobra trackday friendly system 98db static so looking at maybe increasing the dB's [emoji51] Trouble is I've never heard my own car drive by so don't know what it sounds like, people still turn and expect an impreza when they hear it so I guess on the move it's ok. Park up next to nick & ash and I can't even hear it haha

Turns out it was the n/s rear that was knackered, must have been whining for ages but I put it down to all the new bushes haha. Still done and much quieter and with the new goodyears on it's lovely, may have to delete the 2nd resonator in the mid pipe [emoji51]

I know what you mean, They have a really small rear anti roll bar from the factory which promotes understeer, does it feel like it's going ok then won't turn anymore without throttle applications ? Different links help plus a full alignment may benefit too. Anyway I've documented most of the things I've done to her here if your interested in shiny bits lol http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/9698-my-foz

blue bit in the pic is the droplink

When you say 'sloppy' what do you mean,Steering feel or vagueness or reluctance to turn ? I'd rule out the strut nocking as they generally last a longer than that. The droplinks hold the anti roll bar to the wishbone, not sure what type your 2010 model uses but the earlier ones use plastic links which wear and flex a bit and would cause an annoying dull clunk or knock