Need guidance on this project please!

[kayzarh]

Okay some i went ahead and ordered the vb3fa gearbox with matching rear diff and driveshafts (ordered it on Thursday, should be here Tuesday/Wednesday). (thanks @savage bulldogs)

so naturally ive begun taking my current gearbox out, so ive been following this

im currently stuck on this bit as i have no idea what to do next;

this is where ive reached so far,

Ive loosened this nut, after taking the pin out, but it just keeps spinning and wont come off!

i even tried to jack the wheelhub like this to try and separate it;

;

is it because ive jacked the car on the end of the control arm assembely that it wont come off, or am i missing something i need to loosen?

or do i just need to manhandle the control arm, pull it down to pop it out, or shall i use a pry bar?

any help would be appreciated :D 

[stants]

Have you split the ball joint ? If not you'll need a splitting tool, sorry only a few of the pics loaded for me

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[Scoobyghost]

Get a pry bar above the wishbone close to the ball joint, wedge the end under the car and find the biggest lad you know to jump on the bar.

One option but I wouldn't advise you do it 😅😂😜 Worked the countless punto boxes I broke but that car was a little more disposable than your pride and joy.

[savage bulldogs]

Put a block of wood under the wishbone and jack the wishbone up till it almost lifts the car off the stands .

This should push the taper on the ball joint tight into the hub to stop the nut spinning the taper .

That method normally works but it can cause them to be a bit tight to get out of the hub once the nut is removed.

Once the nut is off I use a trusty scaffold tube to put on top of the wishbone and under the car , then stand on the other end tapping the wishbone with a hammer around the ball joint to "shock" the taper free from the hub .

Don't forget to remove the clutch fork shaft from the box before you try to separate the box from the engine.

I'll find a couple of pics of the fork shaft removed, I normally use a cam cover bolt to withdraw the shaft (oh err lol ) once the hex plug shaft cap is removed

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

[savage bulldogs]

Once this hex plug is removed from near the starter motor .

You then withdraw the shaft with a 6mm thread bolt to release the clutch fork out of the thrust race bearing.

Everything else is fairly straightforward but giz a shout if you get stuck and let me know if you get the ball joint split .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

[kayzarh]

5 hours ago, Scoobyghost said:

Get a pry bar above the wishbone close to the ball joint, wedge the end under the car and find the biggest lad you know to jump on the bar.

One option but I wouldn't advise you do it 😅😂😜 Worked the countless punto boxes I broke but that car was a little more disposable than your pride and joy.

 

4 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

Once this hex plug is removed from near the starter motor .

You then withdraw the shaft with a 6mm thread bolt to release the clutch fork out of the thrust race bearing.

Everything else is fairly straightforward but giz a shout if you get stuck and let me know if you get the ball joint split .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

i got the shaft lose from the bearing and pulled the plug out with a bolt yesterday!

alright sound tips guys very sound.

Savs ill try your method and if that dosent work ill try yours ghost.

Im just so happy that again im learning a bunch, savage we are definitely opening a scooby specalist once im older! no excuses!!

[savage bulldogs]

Well we ain't using my scoob as a company car ..... cos I've heard about your launches lol .

If the new box n diff are the same ratio as your existing one and there's nothing wrong with it , I'd leave that in situ for now .

As the rear diff carrier can be a pita to free up (rusty bolts ect)

And if they're the same ratio you only need to remove from the prop forward .

The front shafts can stay in the hubs just remove the drift pins on the inner cv's , undo the track rod ends and swing the leg out 😉

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

[kayzarh]

9 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

Well we ain't using my scoob as a company car ..... cos I've heard about your launches lol .

If the new box n diff are the same ratio as your existing one and there's nothing wrong with it , I'd leave that in situ for now .

As the rear diff carrier can be a pita to free up (rusty bolts ect)

And if they're the same ratio you only need to remove from the prop forward .

The front shafts can stay in the hubs just remove the drift pins on the inner cv's , undo the track rod ends and swing the leg out 😉

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

im pretty sure the dude said that the uk gearbox have 3.9 fd but this is 4.1 fd, im gonna swap out the rear driveshaft anyway because im positive that my rear right driveshaft has a toasted abs ring on it cause the "KURKURKURKUR" noise comming from it on deaccelaration.

dont worry i promise im still going to launch the car but only <5k rpm, i just need boost off the line T_T (it will all be fine once i get als/lc). and in my defence the box had like 138k on it!

[kayzarh]

and i NEVER dump the clutch

[kayzarh]

Yoyoyoyo

The gearbox is out my friends and the rear diff is sitting on 4 nuts ;) luckily none of those nuts are mine ha banta

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[savage bulldogs]

Nice work [emoji106]

Don't forget to check all the gearbox driveshaft, prop and diff drive shaft seals while it's out . As they're only about £15 each and you'll be gutted if they leak once it's all back together [emoji6]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

[kayzarh]

When the night rolls in! (and the parents are asleep) let the 6am mission roll in tomorrow

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[stants]

Bet they gonna be happy when they come down stairs to find a 'box at the bottom of it

Just hope no one stubbs their toe [emoji23]

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[kayzarh]

Alright lads we have a vb3fa in my scoobs now [emoji14]

Only little problem was that after a bit of boosting, I was driving very calm and relaxing and the scoobs hit the Hot I pulled up in the middle of the road, put the hazards on and called a friend.... Only to find out the water was perfect, just a massive air bubble.

Drove home and no leaks, temp was fine, according to my theory there is a clamp on somewhere very lose which is allowing a little coolant out and allowing air in which caused a air lock and shot the temperature up.

Im going to take a look soon (back 2 work tomorrow :(

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[kayzarh]

Scoobs now has the bbbk on it

Big ****** brake kit!

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[kayzarh]

i found this ****** @savage bulldogsobviously after i pulled all the seats out and went through the diagnostics manual (u scan bruh @Gambit)

[savage bulldogs]

Can't see if it's fubar in the pic ?

But if it is I hope it's sorted your lack of fuel fella [emoji106]

Nice too meet you both today by the way [emoji41]

[kayzarh]

Yah it was fudged but swapped it around with his but didn't get it fixed :( there is absolutely no ground signal comming from the connector according to the diagnostic book, gotta do a **** load of searching and go through the most complex diagram in the whole book

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[kayzarh]

And, it was super awesome to meet you aswell

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[kayzarh]

So I've made some progress, very happy so far.

Went through the fuel system diagnostic in my manuals.

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[kayzarh]

As there was no operating sound ground the fuel pump it was time to tackle step 2:

So I did that using this:

Checking pin out on r58 connector No. 4; do you're probably wondering the fookh Is that right?

Allow me to explain :D

(basically pin out 4 on the connector that goes into the fuel pump)

Low and behold, I got zero resistance, absolute fudge all. (multimeter on ohms, positive lead into the pin 4, negative touched on the body!)

So then I moved onto:

Now no one likes to pay people so, I'm going to try repair it using the wiring diagram:

Notice, the r58 and the 4/1 pin on the right of it near the symbol of the fuel pump? Remember the pin 4 from the last picture that's the ground!!!!

Which leads to connector r57/r15:

.

Now the logical step would be to check if there is ground comming from PIN3 on connector r57/r15. Because it is connected to the main grounding point in that harness!!!!

Now you're probably thinking yep, that sounds about right, but where in the world can I find connector r57/r15 in the entire car, it could be anywhere.

Allow me to show :

First we look at the:

And we find connector r15/r57:

As we can see the ground connector is know as GB-8.

So we gonna find GB-8 via :

Oh hey look its GB-8! :

Oh, look who else decided to turn up, Mr r15/r57:

And we know that r15 is near r72:

And we can check that the r72 is the rear abs sensor right:

And that it is grey, while r15 is black!

So what comes next? I haven't a clue, I'm just going to follow this book and type out what I've understood because I am not savage!!

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[kayzarh]

Alright that pervious post will be edited on the computer as in makes as much sense as fwd drag racing 😂😂😂

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[savage bulldogs]

Lol that might as well be in Japanese cos I'm not too good with sparks . I'd probably follow the instructions (as your doing) only thing that sticks out in the pics is there's a bit on the page that says "with imoblizer "/ "without imoblizer " in the area your working in . So maybe try to trace if the imoblizer cuts the pump when active and if so where the oe imoblizer breaks the power . So you can maybe by pass it to take it out of the possible fault list .

[kayzarh]

Lol that might as well be in Japanese cos I'm not too good with sparks . I'd probably follow the instructions (as your doing) only thing that sticks out in the pics is there's a bit on the page that says "with imoblizer "/ "without imoblizer " in the area your working in . So maybe try to trace if the imoblizer cuts the pump when active and if so where the oe imoblizer breaks the power . So you can maybe by pass it to take it out of the possible fault list .

My grounding is all fine I've checked it all back to the ecu and its less than 1 ohm in all spots. I also found that the fuel pump is only getting like 5v so I'm going to start from the top of the book and start with diagnosing the ecu I've got pins all back probed on the ecu and I'm going to be following the book.

Mechanic pointed out that 50a fuse blew so I had a big barstard short somewhere.

What I'm going to do is make incision with a blade before and after every connector to see if I can find where the voltage drops from 12, if it is 4volts from the beginning of the ecu, maybe my ecu somehow got Fried :/

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[kayzarh]

absolutely shattered, ill prob give another bash in the near future. i am going to work my way from the fuel loom all the way back to see where the voltage drops, i tried using needles as piggyback on the ecu connectors but they dont seem to be returning a reading eventhough i checked them for continuity :(