guys i had a overheat again but this time i didnt lose heat:D, i noticed all my coolant on the floor this time, it was the bottom rad hose leaking! Well i thought id swap in the genuine thermostat and well, i snapped the bolt! after some heat and a torx socket, managed to get the thing off! ill add some pics in due time!!

 

GOD BLESSES THIS EJ20 !!!!!

update:

Ok so ive not been overheating anymore and ive been driving hard, no oil loss and the car has been smooth as butter bar the error code 24 which is the idle air control valve!

So i changed the IACV and still no dice! then i went and took my old IACV gave it a real good clean and swapped the yellow idle adjuster over, no codes so far!

I also found some oil around my camshaft sensor! must be from all my dodgey oil top ups cause of that leaking rocker cover LOL, well i gave that a good scrub and stuck it back in.

SO, yesterday i had the greatest urge to check my spark plugs (Last time i checked they were covered in fuel!!) this time no wetness, but this is how they look ;

i think that white crud is due to remains of injector cleaner in my fuel tank or am i mistaken ? is this a bad looking sprak plug or is it perfectly fine for out engines?

 

cant tell with the white stuff but I like my plugs to be more of a dark brown shade, its not oily so that is good, do you have an air oil separator fitted?

My guess is the plugs running too hot, maybe leaning off under boost ? What plugs are they ?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

NGK PFR6B'S

Well, I think it may be time.to up the heat range with the syms manifold installed!

Time for PFR7B's

1 hour ago, Jay762 said:

cant tell with the white stuff but I like my plugs to be more of a dark brown shade, its not oily so that is good, do you have an air oil separator fitted?

No! Just bog standard In that respect

the colour around the ring is not consistent and what is there is a bit black indicating could be running rich but nothing too serious probably errs on the side of engine protection / safety...

Spark plug colour guide

http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html

the white tip could be an indication of over heating plug - included a thread for info

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/557952-possible-spark-plug-overheating

 

LOL so my bottom rad hose has got a pinhole leak in it AGAIN.

does anyone have a spare bottom radiator hose for a subaru; preferably something stronger?

I know that i have bubbling in my overflow after i drive heard, but it dosent overheat!

Is it normal for the radiator hose to be stiff when its all warm and pressured (rad cap on ?)

 

Got a new hose, flushed the water and put some new coolant in: BARGAIN comma super red is OAT coolant which is free of NAP and silicate! Got 5L for £15!

My rad hoses r no longer under pressure :o it could have been an air lock all this time!

Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk

ok so i got a tactrix cable and evoscan software, finally geting some data from my ECU :D. 

So im trying to figure out why my idle is slightly rough time to time.

on a warm engine, at idle, this is the behaviour from my MAF sensor VS O2 Sensor.

is this normal behaviour? what else can i log which can help me with this slightly rough engine behaviour, i mean ever so slightly.

im going to get started on some intensive reading!!

 

caught this all howbowdah ;) @savage bulldogs

esl 75 with software and cable, orange maf, kn cone, intake air temp, 3 port boost solenoid and flywheel hole cover

Nice choice kay [emoji41]

 

Best get saving for that drive train and forged build upgrade too [emoji6]

 

Are you gonna fit a afr kit, the maf n ecu then back the boost and timing off a bit , untill you get to grips with the data logging ?

3 hours ago, savage bulldogs said:

Nice choice kay

 

Best get saving for that drive train and forged build upgrade too

 

Are you gonna fit a afr kit, the maf n ecu then back the boost and timing off a bit , untill you get to grips with the data logging ?

i may get me a run on a dyno with wideband logging.

If the dyno costs me more than £100.

I will save up a bit, while i read this book :

engine management and advance tuning by Greg Banish.

As i cover each section in the book ill link that section to ESL Manual and ill watch a video or two of someone live tuning their fuel map.

as for creating a base map, ill get some logs from my evoscan as this will have my base ignition map and fuel map for my 8s ecu, i can then match that to my live figures and work out the ignition advance and paste it over :D (Clever i know )

OR

ill reach fuckit levels, get a wideband logger, get some 440s and a td05  at like 1.0bar boost map that into my base map.

Eitherway i dont think im planning to run it without wideband logging.

(Ill also be doing the calculations for the MAF scaling etc)

off the esl manual;

New MAF Scale = Old MAF Scale x (74767/65535)

is to work out MAF scaling;

As i have a basemap which is persumeably for the ORANGE maf if i re-arrange the forumla to find old maf scale, i can then verify that this scale is right by punching it back into the forumula:D

ill do this for every sensor just to ensure ive bridged the gap between the 8s and 75 ecu, even though ill be running mafless

So my MAF scale is all set for the ORANGE MAF:

New MAF Scale = Old MAF Scale x (74767/65535)

21100 = New MAF Scale (As shown in the ESL base map)

Solving for Old MAF Scale:

Rearranging to make Old MAF Scale the subject;

New MAF Scale / (74767/65535) = Old MAF Scale

21100 / (74767/65535)= 18495

So

18495 x (74767/65535) = 21100

so assuming that the base map had the value for the Orange MAF correct, this should all be set up!

banter cause ill be mafless anyway hahahaha

ok MAHOSIVE update guys. pics will soon follow :D

So, I got around to putting my ECU setup in, and the car would not turn on. There is an immobilizer or some sort of feature which was not allowing the fuel prime signal to be sent to the fuel pump relay. I solved this by jumping two wires (now soldered together), the downside to this method was the fuel pump is always running with the ignition on and i'm not sure if or how this would affect fuel cut feature of the ECU. 

I then proceeded to installing and mounting my AEM wideband sensor and hooking this up to the ESL ECU so I could log the AFR directly into the ESL logs. This was done by first disconnecting the stock narrowband O2 sensor at the downpipe, and then soldering the Signal Out wire onto the Signal in (For the stock narrowband) on the ECU. the conversion was then done with formula included with the AEM instructions.  

I then turned the boost down and ignition timing down and started adding everything on slowly, I was paying close attention to the Knock sensor activity/Knock correction table of the ECU, I had no corrections applied to my fueling and timing via the closed loop knock detection feature of the ECU. I was playing it very safe.

Fast forward a bit, my clutch started slipping and I then replaced it on my driveway with an Exedy pink box clutch and an Exedy lightweight flywheel and a Whiteline front d upgrade. I also put on the vf23 turbo and I got my hands on a 6s map which is basically the map for the STI RA v3 :D holy mother, the high end was calling for 12.4s AFR and 30degrees of timing. HELL NO FORGET THAT.

I sensibly applied my 7k rev limiter and richened out the top end, I didn't adjust the timing much, just pulled a degree here and there for peace of mind. 

Still no correction from the CLKD of the ECU. (Thank you V-Power :)) all is well.

I then started to stall out on traffic lights. The IVAC was the culprit, hence this was cleaned out by the finest carb cleaner and replaced the gasket! at the same time I allowed the injector reinjection to come in slightly more early (1500rpmvs1300rpms) and like that traffic light stalling was a thing of the past.

Fast forward a little and my car is currently taking like 6 cranks to start. I've been out with virus for a few weeks now :(, so the most I've been able to do is replace the alternator. get the starter recondition and lastly get my battery charged and tested. A bit of poking revealed that I was getting roughly 1v of dropage on my battery terminal vs my alternator. Attaching a Jump cable on my negative post and the other on the alternator body brought that disappeared voltage right back.

TO DO LIST:

Try to source the cause of the error code 12 (Starter switch or ignition fault code)

Find the baby oil leak from the VF23 and see if it is fixable.

Get the FMIC on.

Make some DET cans.

Get a fresh service in.

Whilst turbo is off, get another wideband sensor (original busted :( ) and mount it further down the downpipe for more longevity. 

ADD MOAR BOOST AND MOAR TIMING !

Special thanks to @savage bulldogs for the Whatsapp Support on the side and supplying me with the ignition leads/coilpack and whiteline droplinks. and most importantly dropping some mad tips here and there!

The VF23 is an absolute monster turbo. i may even consider getting it billeted so i can really run 1.45 bar boost in the midrange and really push the timing in the upper rpms and loads. Im getting full boost at pretty much the same time as a TD04 (3k-3.3k) ive not even tuned WG duty and i have the crappy wrx top mount and NO catch can.

Which reminds me I also replaced my PCV breather hoses as it was cracked :D

Thanks for reading!!!!

No problem bud , glad it's running well and making you grin [emoji4]



Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk