savage bulldogs Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Glad to here your still chipping away at it . I couldn't see the vid my anti virus wouldn't let me . If you haven't already fitted the new oe intake pipe ,it could be a air leak causing the idle fluctuations. Front n rear subframes are about the Only thing I haven't removed off mine . So can't be much help as to what's involved but echo stants with checking the fuel filler neck for corrosion. As the plastic "stone chip guard" collects mud and rots the filler neck if not kept clean . Lift the rear seat bench as I think the brake pipes go from interior to exterior at that point in the Shell . Although I think the nearest join in that length of brake line is on the outside (above the tank) Before you drop the subframe, it Might be worth wire brushing and squirting with wd any thread ends of bolts or captive nuts (inside) at least the day before. Cheap poly bushes will probably give a harsh ride I think rcm recommend oe ones for road use. It wouldn't hurt to fit a Whiteline arb and upgraded droplinks while they're off though [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 2 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said: Glad to here your still chipping away at it . I couldn't see the vid my anti virus wouldn't let me . If you haven't already fitted the new oe intake pipe ,it could be a air leak causing the idle fluctuations. Front n rear subframes are about the Only thing I haven't removed off mine . So can't be much help as to what's involved but echo stants with checking the fuel filler neck for corrosion. As the plastic "stone chip guard" collects mud and rots the filler neck if not kept clean . Lift the rear seat bench as I think the brake pipes go from interior to exterior at that point in the shell . Although I think the nearest join in that length of brake line is on the outside (above the tank) Before you drop the subframe, it Might be worth wire brushing and squirting with wd any thread ends of bolts or captive nuts (inside) at least the day before. Cheap poly bushes will probably give a harsh ride I think rcm recommend oe ones for road use. It wouldn't hurt to fit a Whiteline arb and upgraded droplinks while they're off though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Im pretty sure there are no air leaks, I've fitted everything on properly (including new oe intake) this time, last time the car would literally switch off if i never gave it enough throttle, but ill be sure to check through again. Last time i warmed it up to 20mins or so, revved it hard a few times and the idle had stopped fluctuating. the only iffy i can really pick out right now is as soon i start the car i get a whiff of petrol, which goes away almost instantly. If i can get the brake lines done from the rear seat using a little different routes im going to do that, as i want to get it mot'd and insured asap :D whilst then i can save up for nice coil overs and at least appreciate the upgrade could i get a little more explanation on how to check the fuel filler neck as the underseal looks pretty good (im assuming the plastic black shiny cover thingies) education wise from January since now ive learnt SO MUCH its unbelieveable really appreciate the help and support from you guys, wouldn't have been able to do it alone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 You can see the stone guard in this pic Dirt gets trapped between the guard and the filler neck ,especially at the bend at the bottom of the guard [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 1 hour ago, savage bulldogs said: You can see the stone guard in this pic Dirt gets trapped between the guard and the filler neck ,especially at the bend at the bottom of the guard If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 ah i understand now, awesome, ill have a look at that for sure. i heard a loud hissing sound towards the turbo area, is that just the turbo spinning or could that be an air leak? My cold start is around 1.5k revs and drops down to around 800 once the engine temp has reached halfway. as the engine warms up the fluctuation is less intense. i must add: It dosent only go down and up, it bounces in one place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 You might get a bit of hissing from a induction kit but the turbo shouldn't make a noise on idle . Have you tried spraying a bit of brake cleaner around the joins of the intake tract (after maf to throttle body) the revs will rise if there's a leak as it will suck in the higher octane cleaner . Just don't spray too much at once (let it evaporate ) or spray it on hot parts (exhaust ect) cos it's flammable[emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 8 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said: You might get a bit of hissing from a induction kit but the turbo shouldn't make a noise on idle . Have you tried spraying a bit of brake cleaner around the joins of the intake tract (after maf to throttle body) the revs will rise if there's a leak as it will suck in the higher octane cleaner . Just don't spray too much at once (let it evaporate ) or spray it on hot parts (exhaust ect) cos it's flammable If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 ill try this when the blooming weather clears up and ill make sure the engine isnt too hot just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 @savage bulldogs HEY LOOK WHAT I FOUND :D:D:D. I wonder who posted this convenient picture, he also has a really nice scoob ;) HA GHAAAI </end of banter> Really look at number 6, sounds exactly, goes up and down in a small range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Lol . You could try checking the spark plug condition, gap and make sure they're the correct ones . I wouldn't replace to much untill you've driven it a bit as it's not been running much and could just be carbon build up from just running on the choke a lot (might burn off once you drive it ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 11, 2016 Author Share Posted May 11, 2016 9 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said: Lol . You could try checking the spark plug condition, gap and make sure they're the correct ones . I wouldn't replace to much untill you've driven it a bit as it's not been running much and could just be carbon build up from just running on the choke a lot (might burn off once you drive it ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 i got the ngk pfr6b's from Opie with my order and installed them like 1-2months back, and yes, i was also told that by my uncle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 @savage bulldogs Okay did my first full oil change, making sure to replace the washer and and the oil filter. got a nice genuine black subaru filter and fresh 5w-40 from Shell. okay the idle fluctation is alot better and only really happens when i slow down from lets say 4-5k revs. Ill rev to 3k and it will drop to 1k rev smoothly, then take a moment before dropping to 800 revs Also, sometimes when i let go of the throttle it hesitates slightly as if its about to stall when it reach around 1k rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 think my alternator is gone, when the engine is running and i take the negative off the car stalls. after around 10ish mins of running and use of accessories (heater, headlights, windows) causes my cluster to switch off and thus my revs go to 0 even though the car is still running, shortly after the car tries to switch off, if i give it some beans (2-3k ish revs, it runs fine again, but the dash still dosent come back to life). Not sure if this picture was taken in a place that has the driver side on the left.// Do i have this correct? and finally a video VIDEO am i on the right track? I found all these pictures and the video on the internet from: http://www.designlabx.com/subaru/brakes/brake_line/ thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 update: Alternator fixed the random electrical issues. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 anyone got any pointers for which one could be the rear right brake line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Update: Was doing the brake lines till 1am today morning :D Good news is the 50/50 chance paid off and I cut the right one. Bad news is the nipple I have that goes into the plastic flexible brake hose dosent fix so I have to wait for smaller ones which I ordered today morning. Next step alongside the nipple is to mount the exhaust 100% and go over all the bolts to make sure everything is still torqued down. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Sorry bud missed this post ,not that I'll be much help , as I've never had to remove any of the body work brake lines or the tank . Could you access the pipes through where the pipes go from interior to exterior or did you have to drop the tank ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Sorry bud missed this post ,not that I'll be much help , as I've never had to remove any of the body work brake lines or the tank . Could you access the pipes through where the pipes go from interior to exterior or did you have to drop the tank ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 No problem, no I didn't drop the tank, I pulled the back seats and threaded the shortest, straight route to the callipers while feed the line behind the lip of the fuel tank, I'll take some pictures. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Yeah what with putting my house on the market and the bulldog passing away (rip lizzy) I've not been on here as much lately 😕 Glad that you didn't have to drop the tank in the end and it's good to know that the tank doesn't need to be dropped fir future reference 😉 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Yeah what with putting my house on the market and the bulldog passing away (rip lizzy) I've not been on here as much lately 😕 Glad that you didn't have to drop the tank in the end and it's good to know that the tank doesn't need to be dropped fir future reference 😉 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk Sorry to hear about that, hope it all works out for you, it's never easy losing a friend and a loyal one even more so, if I had some extra cash and a flatter surface I would dropped the subframe and give everything some tlc and drop in a lsd to go with my gearbox :D Just want to give you some heads up that our government is artificially !Removed! with our economy and we will have a crash worse than 2006 and Im pretty positive that the UK will stay in the EU to make matters worse. Bankers are the worst scum (real ones) Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Yeah I agree with your opinion on the W"b"ankers but house prices don't really affect me too much. As I jumped on the ladder at 19 and payed it off at 40 ,so I've got enough equity and savings to almost buy the next house with cash 😉 I (apparently) have a fairly rare ra rear diff which has a lsd and it does seem to like lighting up the rear tyres more than my old ok diff 😎 I'll probably drop the rear subframe off mine at some point when the rear bushes start to show signs of wear . My v1sti has only done 86k and has only been over here since 2011 , so isn't showing any signs of wear yet but ........ If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Awesome awesome, seems you got everything sorted 😉 But hey if you ever decide to drop your subframe let me know and we could make a day out of it 😂😂😂 Nice gearbox bro want to trade for a pack of crunchynut 😂😂😂😂 Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Update: spent 30 mins taking one downpipe bolt off :D Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Help! As the brake hard-line goes into the rubber brake line, what is the flare that fits that connection? I tried like a good 10 double flares today I for only two to work, one was too small and the other snapped on me! Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I can't help as I've never had this area of my car apart before [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 25, 2016 Author Share Posted May 25, 2016 Fudgwuabduq zyebai HD q Spent 3 hours yday trying to get a flare done (others where fine) tried to connect the brake line to the Rubber hose? Is this a sign from above telling me to buy stainless steel brake lines? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I sold a full set of Goodrich stainless steel brake lines for £20 a few months ago [emoji57] Think you can get cheaper one's new for about £40 though [emoji39] [emoji116] [emoji116] [emoji116] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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