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Need guidance on this project please!


kayzarh
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so, i decided to plug the black connectors together and guess what im getting a error code 23 so its the MAF, took the MAF out again cleaned it up with electrical contact cleaner reset the ecu and double checked via the black connectors, disconnected them, ran the car a little and checked again and it threw out that error code so its time to get a new maf i guess. (brand new 183 from RCM) Or second hand for £50

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That's very cheap, mine was 235 from ipc new, the Roger Clark price seems good,

I'd go brand new from a reputable source as you'll only end up spending more in the long run if you bought 2nd hand or cheap copy

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That's very cheap, mine was 235 from ipc new, the Roger Clark price seems good,

I'd go brand new from a reputable source as you'll only end up spending more in the long run if you bought 2nd hand or cheap copy

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But apparently it's remanufactured and quite a few have been sold I'm really stuck in a two minds 50quid remanafactured and 180 brand new, that could be £140 spelt elsewhere or saving up for a esl board

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  • 3 weeks later...

alright lads, so far this is what ive done;

changed fuel filter, air filter, cleaned throttle body, iacv, changed coolant temp sensor, changed maf, ive even stuck a full bottle of redex injector cleaner in an empty tank for some concentrated cleaning ! (which ive now diluted with £5 of v-power)

one of the first things i did was change the spark plugs to ngk pfr6bs

there are no cel and no errors in read only mode.

here is the video of the car all warmed up and its funny idle/rpm behaviour. (sometimes it does not even hang when i rev it really hard).

here is a video

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Did you remove or adjust the icv or tps position screws when working on the scoob ?

Are both the icv and tps the original ones off the car ?

As any minor adjustment can throw out the throttle position or idle behaviour. It might sort itself out once it's had a decent run and burned some of the stop start carbon build up off .

As for that earth I dunno where that's supposed to go as both of my scoobs have had that earth but neither of them had anything connected to the other end either lol

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Did you remove or adjust the icv or tps position screws when working on the scoob ?

Are both the icv and tps the original ones off the car ?

As any minor adjustment can throw out the throttle position or idle behaviour. It might sort itself out once it's had a decent run and burned some of the stop start carbon build up off .

As for that earth I dunno where that's supposed to go as both of my scoobs have had that earth but neither of them had anything connected to the other end either lol

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yes I marked the previous spots with tipex and I just tightened the icv bolts to the manifold using rough force, I wasn't too worried about !Removed! it up as I have a gasket for it in the boot. Idk if it is original bolts but seems to be that way ad they have been thread locked.

I checked the area for vacumleaks/waterleaks and found none so saved the gasket for future use.

I think my best bet now would be to make a SSM cable and monitor all statistics I guess.

Ever since I put the bottle of redex in the car Revs freerer but the first start of the day causes a misfire for a few seconds but doaent throw a cel

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I've got a walbro too lol

But I wouldn't have thought that a faulty pump would be under too much strain when stationery.

I'd imagine that you'd notice that more when the pumps feeding the extra fuel needed when on boost

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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I've got a walbro too lol

But I wouldn't have thought that a faulty pump would be under too much strain when stationery.

I'd imagine that you'd notice that more when the pumps feeding the extra fuel needed when on boost

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I did a 0-60 in an off road place private land and it took 7-8 seconds [emoji30]

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Any changes in fuelling or timing usually take a full tank for the ecu to learn , so it might get better once run for a bit .

Failing that you could Get it insured and on a dyno to find out exactly what's going on .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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Any changes in fuelling or timing usually take a full tank for the ecu to learn , so it might get better once run for a bit .

Failing that you could Get it insured and on a dyno to find out exactly what's going on .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeh about that I filled a full tank and finished it on a certain private road in a private non public road [emoji30]

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yo yo savs i got insurance innit :2guns::2guns:

yehp on another note, there is a noise coming from the rear right of the car only on deceleration at high revs also an abs light, im i right to assume its the wheel hub that needs replacing ?

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V3 and v4 work of a abs ring which is bolted to the hub (with "star drive or torque headed bolts) .

They're prone to cracking when removing to do a wheel bearing ect (mine fell apart on the bearing press ) . I had the hub off already, so can't remember if the hub has to be removed first but unfortunately I do remember they're not cheap new (£65 ish) .

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took her for a nice 60 mileish drive and near home I had some coolant leaking and the temp went a bit up.

I checked the turbo and it had oil coming out the intercooler pipe on the body of the turbine.

I also noticed that the upipe gasket seemed to have "blown up" as there was water coming out of the side.

Is it a simple gasket swap and an intercooler y pipe swap or is there a bigger issue here?

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There shouldn't be any coolant in the up pipe to leak (just exhaust gasses) so I'm a bit stumped on that ,unless the turbo core is fubar'd. Are you sure it's not leaking coolant from the turbo coolant lines and running down the up pipe?

Excessive oil in the turbo outlet and blue smoke would normally indicate turbo oil seals . If you've been cornering hard on boost it could just be oil "surge or slosh" in the sump. Which pushes oil from the breather system into the intake and through the turbo coldside to the y pipe.

If your not getting any smoke from the exhaust , clean the oil from the y pipe and tmic if needed. Then keep a eye on your oil levels regularly and see if the y pipe gets oily again .

Hopefully it's not the turbo core that's fubar , unless you want to fit a bigger turbo of course [emoji39]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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There shouldn't be any coolant in the up pipe to leak (just exhaust gasses) so I'm a bit stumped on that ,unless the turbo core is fubar'd. Are you sure it's not leaking coolant from the turbo coolant lines and running down the up pipe?

Excessive oil in the turbo outlet and blue smoke would normally indicate turbo oil seals . If you've been cornering hard on boost it could just be oil "surge or slosh" in the sump. Which pushes oil from the breather system into the intake and through the turbo coldside to the y pipe.

If your not getting any smoke from the exhaust , clean the oil from the y pipe and tmic if needed. Then keep a eye on your oil levels regularly and see if the y pipe gets oily again .

Hopefully it's not the turbo core that's fubar , unless you want to fit a bigger turbo of course [emoji39]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sign from above to park her up, save up, 440cc, walboro, afp4h, sti tmic ? :D

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There shouldn't be any coolant in the up pipe to leak (just exhaust gasses) so I'm a bit stumped on that ,unless the turbo core is fubar'd. Are you sure it's not leaking coolant from the turbo coolant lines and running down the up pipe?

Excessive oil in the turbo outlet and blue smoke would normally indicate turbo oil seals . If you've been cornering hard on boost it could just be oil "surge or slosh" in the sump. Which pushes oil from the breather system into the intake and through the turbo coldside to the y pipe.

If your not getting any smoke from the exhaust , clean the oil from the y pipe and tmic if needed. Then keep a eye on your oil levels regularly and see if the y pipe gets oily again .

Hopefully it's not the turbo core that's fubar , unless you want to fit a bigger turbo of course [emoji39]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Checked the coolant lines and it seems all pish posh, the water is literally leaking from the area of the upipe gasket and fizzing out tons of water

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47 minutes ago, kayzarh said:

Checked the coolant lines and it seems all pish posh, the water is literally leaking from the area of the upipe gasket and fizzing out tons of water

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That sounds like its coming from the turbo itself. turbo shot like sav said

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Checked the coolant lines and it seems all pish posh, the water is literally leaking from the area of the upipe gasket and fizzing out tons of water

Sent from my m8 using Tapatalk

That sounds like its coming from the turbo itself. turbo shot like sav said

About time 😂😂😂😂

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