2016 WRX STi boost ?

[Steve36]

Hiya Guys

I opened my car up for the first time earlier and I was expecting that turbo boost feeling, you know the one were it pins you to your seat but I wasn't that impressed and was expecting more. Was around 5k RPM.

Its done a few hundred miles now so I'm not going mad or anything but wanted to try her out !

Is it because its not broken in fully ?

[kershaw-330s]

Did you have it in sport#

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[Steve36]

Had it in Intelligent mode (I mode) but would of thought it would still throw me back some what - Does it make differences in turbo delivery ?

[kershaw-330s]

Lol that's why I mode is a waste of time and never gives you more that 50% throttle I find it's actually less efficient in i mode too unless I have the cruse control on the motor way doing 60 Alan Jeffries didn't have anything good to say about it either when we spoke about it . I think the common opinion on i mode is its crap lol

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[kershaw-330s]

You wana feel boost put it in sport # take it upto about 3k in 2nd then foot to the floor . If you don't get pinned then I would be worried lol

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[Steve36]

haha will give that ago ! its only done 500 miles, would this be ok ?

[Sandals]

4 minutes ago, Steve36 said:

haha will give that ago ! its only done 500 miles, would this be ok ?

I would maybe do it very briefly and not go over 5k... still quite early in the bedding in process

[Tidgy]

I'd say leave it another 500 miles nd then oil change at 1000 then let her rip.

 

(advise running in on a fresh rebuilt (so new engine) is 500miles on crap mineral oil and no boost (waste gate pressure), then 500 on semi synthetic (again at waste gate pressure), then at 1000 fully synthetic and full boost.

[kershaw-330s]

I'd say leave it another 500 miles nd then oil change at 1000 then let her rip.

 

(advise running in on a fresh rebuilt (so new engine) is 500miles on crap mineral oil and no boost (waste gate pressure), then 500 on semi synthetic (again at waste gate pressure), then at 1000 fully synthetic and full boost.

As above but you can give it part load upto 4K help bed in the rings and stuff but not sport# even half throttle you will feel it coming in , but also its ridiculous to go from driving safely for 1000 miles then start kicking it in the head so to speak , so you want to work upto it gradually . It's these vital first couple of K that can dictate how good or reliable you engine will be .

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[Tidgy]

17 minutes ago, kershaw-330s said:

 

 

As above but you can give it part load upto 4K help bed in the rings and stuff but not sport# even half throttle you will feel it coming in , but also its ridiculous to go from driving safely for 1000 miles then start kicking it in the head so to speak , so you want to work upto it gradually . It's these vital first couple of K that can dictate how good or reliable you engine will be .

 

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As above, varying load and not sat at same revs on motorway etc, also use engine braking to help bed the rings in, find a nice long hill and just let it coast down the hill is good for that.

 

As far as going from nothing at 1000 to all, no problem with it. by that time the rings will be bedded in and seals will be seated fine. Both my engine builds have had the same treatment, scoobyclinic have builds hundreds if not thousands of engines and always used the same method :)

 

Can't map the car properly without taking it to full bost repeatedly

[Steve36]

Yep, Sport # changes the car massively !! 'I' and 'S' modes must restrict the turbo boost to save fuel (I'm guessing)

I'll also check my hand book about oil change after the first 1000 miles. Is this actually documented or more of a recommendation ?

[Piggysniffer]

17 hours ago, Tidgy said:

As above, varying load and not sat at same revs on motorway etc, also use engine braking to help bed the rings in, find a nice long hill and just let it coast down the hill is good for that.

 

As far as going from nothing at 1000 to all, no problem with it. by that time the rings will be bedded in and seals will be seated fine. Both my engine builds have had the same treatment, scoobyclinic have builds hundreds if not thousands of engines and always used the same method :)

 

Can't map the car properly without taking it to full bost repeatedly

Are you sure tidge ? My mapper did a great "job" on mine by only running it up 4 or 5 times lol

[Tidgy]

33 minutes ago, Steve36 said:

Yep, Sport # changes the car massively !! 'I' and 'S' modes must restrict the turbo boost to save fuel (I'm guessing)

I'll also check my hand book about oil change after the first 1000 miles. Is this actually documented or more of a recommendation ?

recommended by specialists/tuners, oils one of those things that has a massive influence on an engine and isn't mega expensive to change. Even subaru UK admit the tuners know more than them lol

[Tidgy]

7 minutes ago, Piggysniffer said:

Are you sure tidge ? My mapper did a great "job" on mine by only running it up 4 or 5 times lol

what a 'proper' job that was,,,,, proper bodge it and scarper job hahaha

[Jay762]

Think it was Scooby Pete that measured the boost in the different modes, i-mode gives you 0.5 bar, Sport gives you 1.0 bar S# gives you 1.5 bar - its in a post on a similar discussion somewhere on here so you will def feel a difference. Also Salsa initially found running in sport mode gave 2-4mpg difference - I found the same on mine, sport mode should really be the default mode

[BIGD]

I had the same went from a WRX 2.0 to a 2.5 STI and I wasn't that impressed didn't know about the S# ( Sport Sharp ) OMG!!! what a difference.

would totally agree run it in properly first.

[RichieT]

I have started just usign the S mode all the time in the car now. 

[Piggysniffer]

S mode = sh-it yer'sen mode ?

[RichieT]

29 minutes ago, Piggysniffer said:

S mode = sh-it yer'sen mode ?

PMSL. The power difference is huge and more fun per gallon. 

[NGBZ]

My understanding is that the Si settings simply change the throttle maps and don't change the 'power output'. Max boost will not be changed directly by these settings. The throttle is electronically controlled so the Si simply controls how quickly the throttle opens in relation to the pedal position.

I agree that compared to other tubo cars I've owned in the past, there isn't that real shove in the back when the boost winds up. That is more due to the fact that ECU maps and turbocharger technology etc has improved significantly over the years and car manufacturers want smooth linear power delivery. Doesn't mean to say the car is any slower - just feels that way due to the way power is delivered.

Peak boost in any gear/setting is recorded as 17.6psi (122kpa or 1.2 Bar) on my vehicle. Unless the car mentioned above has been modified from stock, you are not going to see 1.5 Bar unless something is very wrong

Heck, I remember the days when I had some 250bhp running through the front wheels of an MG Montego into which I installed a Rover 16v 220 GTi motor. When full boost came on you really noticed it - especially when that torque steer tried to aim you in any direction other than forwards  Now it's a case of point and shoot and you don't really notice how fast you are going until you look at the speedo

[RichieT]

2 hours ago, NGBZ said:

My understanding is that the Si settings simply change the throttle maps and don't change the 'power output'. Max boost will not be changed directly by these settings. The throttle is electronically controlled so the Si simply controls how quickly the throttle opens in relation to the pedal position.

I agree that compared to other tubo cars I've owned in the past, there isn't that real shove in the back when the boost winds up. That is more due to the fact that ECU maps and turbocharger technology etc has improved significantly over the years and car manufacturers want smooth linear power delivery. Doesn't mean to say the car is any slower - just feels that way due to the way power is delivered.

Peak boost in any gear/setting is recorded as 17.6psi (122kpa or 1.2 Bar) on my vehicle. Unless the car mentioned above has been modified from stock, you are not going to see 1.5 Bar unless something is very wrong

Heck, I remember the days when I had some 250bhp running through the front wheels of an MG Montego into which I installed a Rover 16v 220 GTi motor. When full boost came on you really noticed it - especially when that torque steer tried to aim you in any direction other than forwards  Now it's a case of point and shoot and you don't really notice how fast you are going until you look at the speedo

Yes I agree. In SI mode you are just getting to the max power quicker as the gearing feels shorter, however this only feels shorter because max power delivery sharper then in I mode.   

[Steve36]

I can't get 1.5 bar no matter how hard I try, this normal ? Only seem to get 1.2 

[stuwoac]

boost is only 1.2 as stock I believe as thats all I got out of the one I'm picking up this weekend when having it for a few days also Ive been told to turn traction contol off makes a big difference 

[Steve36]

Why display up to 1.5 on the boost gauge ? 

[Scoobyghost]

To allow visible representation of overboost and boost spikes.

Plus if ever modified to obtain higher boost values.