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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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I had planned to get parallel lines and a fpr fitted at some point mainly just to tidy things up tbh as I don't really need them for my 400bhp target .

I've already deleted the purge valve ,charcoal canister and oil breather pipework to simplify things under the inlet manifold, so only have the oe series fuel line under the inlet manifold atm and no vacuum pipes

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It's nice to have that bit of extra protection with the parallel set up- it's definitely not a necessity for my 300ish, but I just like the idea.

Any excuse to buy shiny things...

Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a good grin doing rwyb at santa pod on Saturday ,nice to catch up with a few members from on here camping for japshow too but shame I missed all the rest of you on the stand Sunday

I'd only ever had 2 goes at the 1/4 before and I definitely needed the practice as my best time was a 14.2 ( I didn't do the car justice) so went with the intention of try to crack the 14 second mark .

1st run I did it in 14 dead [emoji57]

2nd run i managed a 13.3[emoji4]

both with 3k launches and I'm sure if I was a bit more savage with the launch / changes I'd just squeeze a sub 13 second time which would be great on the standard 21yr old/80k turbo

The new parallel fuel set up, z32 maf , bigger turbo ,momo steering wheel and spec c peddle set turned up too .

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So quite a good weekend [emoji4]

Won't be fitting any of the engine bits this side of xmas as I have to do a bit of research on compressor housings and hybrid wheels first [emoji6]

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Forgot to update on here that I've changed the steering wheel over and fitted some of the spec c peddles .Also managed to drill ,tap and relocate the actuator bracket so the turbo coldside is now clocked

Here's the old momo course wheel,which is up for sale (with a momo boss for direct classic fitment )

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And the new momo jet steering wheel and a few of the peddles fitted

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Clocked coldside aps sr40 turbo

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Can't wait till spring to get the engine mods fitted and mapped in [emoji4]

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  • 1 month later...

Although running the apexi boost kit add on gives the apexi fc ecu better control over the boost I still wasn't hitting the 1.58 bar target everytime in 3rd or bellow 😞 after a bit of research i decided a avcr boost controller might help as it has a gear judge function which compensates for the variations in manifold and vacumm pressure when the engines under greater loads 

Electrics isn't my thing to be honest but I'd managed the newage coil pack conversion and I can solder/weld .

 

I had the wiring diagram and ecu pinout list for my version  in the apexi avcr box , So i set about labeling up the wires and identifying the ecu pinouts 

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I stripped back a bit of insulation on each wire coming off the pinouts and soldered the wires into the loom .

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If I didn't have the apexi fc controller I would have left it on standard "scramble " mode (0.5 bar) and let the mapper set it up to make sure the fuelling is correct before changing the boost settings 😉

The hand controller displays the boost target and duty cycle that attowe had set up so I entered the same values into the avcr and took her for a spin 

Boost kicked in about 400 rpm sooner but I can't get the "gear judge " function to work until I resolve the lack of speed sensor output to the ecu .I think it's something to do with a data monitor that's not fully connected under the dash .

I'm getting fed up of not being able to work on the car during the bad weather but it was a whole 9 °in sunny Suffolk today . So I thought I'd offer up the parallel fuel rails and fuel lab pressure regulator 

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Looks like I might have put the alternator in the wrong place 😂

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Cheers Ant [emoji106] it's probably cost £450 and my time for the rails ,lines,fpr,inlet,paint and conversion pipes.

Even if it's not running the power I'd hoped atm at least it looks pretty from a distance lol .

Jay I had thought about moving the Battery to the boot but I might fit a swirl pot in there ,to stop it fuel cutting under 1/2 a tank on righthand bends . It's not that I don't trust myself with fuel lines but I'm not a fan of having them in inclosed spaces with things that can spark . Plus the Mrs would get the hump if I couldn't fit the holiday cases in the boot of my daily [emoji39]

I definitely need to sort out this speed sensor output issue......cos It's starting to get a bit busy with boost sensors under the bonnet [emoji16]

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oe map sensor /3 port solinoid, apexi fc lead and map sensor, apexi avcr map sensor ,avcr 3 port boost solinoid but until I've fitted everything and relocated the catch can I don't know exactly where everything is going [emoji57]

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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She's 22 yrs old in a few months, so it's not as mint as I'd like when you get close up [emoji57] it definitely keeps me busy trying though [emoji5]

I probably post to many pics of the scoob on here and just assumed that you'd like a few of me instead gambit .....

After all you did admit to lurking in the bushes outside my house[emoji16]

if they stopped blowing !Removed! hondas up on the 1/4 mile and making me start /stop my approach i might not have got so slap happy with the go pro buttons lol

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  • 4 weeks later...

well the weathers been a bit better lately but instead of fitting some of the engine bits I thought id buy something else :rolleyes:

 

 the front shocks were given a advisory on the mot last year and I fancied a change from the elbaich springs oe shocks and group n top mounts so I took a punt on a set of meiser r zeta coilovers :smile:

I'm already running elbaich rear camber bolts and the new coilovers come with pillow ball front top mounts so I ordered some extenders to adjust the rear dampening easier and some anti corrosion spray ,when they arrived the seemed to be quite well made:cool:

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I knew a few members on here were considering fitting new suspension so I took quite a few pics while fitting them and will chuck a few pointers in too :wink:

 

your probably better off to give the threads on the bolts at the bottom of the struts a wire brush  a squirt of wd before you start, if the suspension doesn't look like its been off in a while .

I just cracked off the wheel nuts and the top mount nuts under the bonnet first , then jacked the front of the car up and got it securely on axle stands .

wheels off then used a big breaker bar ,19 mm socket and spanner to undo the bottom strut bolts but left 1 bolt in to hold it all in place

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next up was to disconnect the brake line ,I had already cut the bracket that holds the brake line when I fitted the front struts .As doing this means you don't have to disturb the braking system and have to re bleed it

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 I removed the last bottom strut bolt  and removed the strut from the hub, then supported the weight of the strut while I undid the top mount bolts under the bonnet so I could withdraw the complete "leg" from under the arch . of cause I took the opportunity to clean the inner strut turret while the leg was out then sprayed the coilovers in anti corrosion spray to help with my ocd .

put the new coilover in position and loosely did the topmount nuts by hand

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I used a block of wood on a scissor jack to slowly raise the hub while I guided the coilover over it

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copper slipped the bolts fitted the bottom bolt first and put the top "camber" bolt in the neutral position (cam facing upwards)  while the scissor jack was still in position I hand tightened the top mount bolts before using my torque wrench to tighten both lower strut bolts to 75flbs and not forgetting to secure the brake line into the bracket on the coilover

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rinse and repeat for the other side ,double check everything under the arches is as tight as it should be, pop both front wheels back on and slowly lower the car making sure the wheels don't hit the wings ,like mine nearly did but ill explain that after I've run through the rears next time :ph34r::rolleyes:

then finally tighten the top mount securing nuts ,check the pillow ball adjusters are in the neutral position and tight along with the wheel nuts :biggrin:

I sort out a bit of a write up on the rears next week along with a few pointers on base heights to start from when fitting this particular brand to a classic

 

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Advisory on the fronts 😆

I like them alot might be the magpie in me coming out with all the shiny red bits,

Good write up for anyone that's never attempted to change a shock beofre mate [emoji106]

I'll see if we can chop bits of the thread out for the 'how to section'

Least on these we don't have to ***** around compressing springs to be able to drop the shock out.

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Stants I agree they do look real purdy and I haven't seen any bad reviews on the meister 's yet .They seem to get better reviews after long term use than teins or b.c's . Both of those seem to crop up for sale second hand with leaks and complaints of a harsh ride .

( time will tell if they're any better or worse though)

Honest they were advisorys. .....

But mainly cos I advised the mot tester that they needed changing😉

I'll try to prise the laptop of my daughters tonight and run through the rears tonight.

I did consider writing a "how 2" but my spelling let's my spanner monkey skills down .so your welcome to chop n change it to make it work ,but in the meantime it will give other members a idea of what's involved when fitting them 😉

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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I'm trying to move house today so if noting gets done that's why !

I didn't even know these were available I wanted coils for mine but again due to the bad reviews on the bc's I gave up, what spring rates did you go for ?

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