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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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Forgot to mention on my last post, I also fitted a full set of Goodrich phantom braided lines and carbon metallic pads in the brembos up front .

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Can't say if they've improved overall as I want them to bed in before jumping on the brakes but the cold bite seems a lot better than the previous red stuff pads .

Well I had a trip to the dyno today to finally get some mods mapped in . Unfortunately a faulty actuator stopped play [emoji53]

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Attowe checked the actuator with a gauge and it's releasing the waste gate at 0.4 bar. So No matter how much he increased the wastegate duty it struggled to make the boost targets and hold them .

It still made 340hp /320 flbs , pulls much better than before the tweek and I know it's running safe now but I'll be looking out for a uprated 1 bar actuator and be heading to attowes again asap [emoji6]

Did take a short vid on the dyno to show the new cobra track day system at full chat but it's very noisy in his dyno cell due to the massive fans he has running .

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  • 2 months later...

Now the pfc pads have bedded in they're much better than the previous red stuff [emoji41]

I decided to buy a "kinugawa " forged actuator, yeah I know most people will probably think I'm mad buying stuff made in taiwan [emoji55]

But I wasn't willing to pay over £200 for a better branded actuator, only to hack it to bits to try and make it fit my clocked coldside and custom reversed inlet manifold [emoji6]

The actuator seems well made and only took 5 days to arrive. It came with a few different length/shape rods and a couple of different "ends"

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I stripped of the old actuator and offered up the new one 840a398ca663f351f2f779bfa6346019.jpg

I had to cut down one of the ends / fit the bent rod and straighten the original actuator bracket in my vice to make it fit .

Once fitted it now pulls 1 bar of boost about 500 rpm sooner but it's not all smiles. ..... as it doesn't want to make the full 1.5 bar of boost anymore [emoji15] .

So I stripped the new actuator down to find out why

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although everything seems well made unfortunately my Taiwanese ain't too sharp and we seem to have got something lost in translation lol . As I asked for a spring the opened at 0.8 bar but they've fitted it with a actuator spring that's set to open at 0.3 and reaches fully open at 0.8 bar [emoji57]

Quick email to kinugawa and within a hr I had a tracking number for 3 new springs at varied strengths winging their way to me .

So their customer service definitely gets the thumbs up and I'll update with how the product is once I've fitted the correct rate spring [emoji5]

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Sounding great with that Cobra - awesome tone

My kids still don't like it as I have to text em when I'm outside to pick them up from their friends houses .....

Rather than them getting their coats on when they used to hear me coming from half a mile away [emoji23]

I'm chuffed with it as it gives a nice deep thud on tick over that just gets quicker with the Rev increase , instead of louder and raspy'ier [emoji6]

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Cheers Richie, it's been a slippery slope but I've enjoyed building it and it makes me smile driving it.

Only real downside to doing most of the work yourself is having no one else to blame when things don't go as planned.

Just a bit gutted I don't have the space and equipment to spray it myself to get rid of the paint fade .

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Drivers side front door decided it didn't want to lock with the key or fob , so fearing something "sparky" to be at fault I pulled the door card off to investigate.

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This little clamp had a crack in it allowing the door mechanism rods to slip so the lock couldn't be operated.

Bit of redneck engineering and a Few cable ties later ...

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it's working fine and does the job untill I can find a replacement "rod clamp" [emoji6]

Also noticed that the instructions for the actuator (that I hadn't read b4 ) said to add a certain amount of "preload" on the actuator spring [emoji55] .

Wound the rod in a bit and it's boosting better now [emoji12]

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Fitted a new stronger actuator spring and just did a 3rd gear pull .

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I like it a lot [emoji33] [emoji12] But I'll have to turn the wastegate duty down on the avcr as it's only supposed to be hitting 1.5 bar lol.

P.s that's kmph peak on the avcr screen peak speed value [emoji6]

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Too cold to render the outside of a house today so I ended up with a day off work at short notice [emoji57]

Quick phone call to Clive attowe tuning and he kindly shifted a few jobs around to fit me in for a couple of hrs on the dyno [emoji41]

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He's not a subaru "specialist " but he's mapped more than most . There's loads of pics of the different types of cars he's mapped over the years on the outside of the his dyno cell .

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As for me , 3 hrs of bouncing off the limiter and a good half a tank of shells finest later

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He thinks its got more to give but the old Fpr seems to be making the fuelling rich when it hits boost and it possibly being restricted on air flow . I've got a fuelab fpr already so it's just breathing mods to be added to the never ending list lol .

Although it's not as close to 400hp as I'd have liked ,I'm more than happy with how it drives and pulls now . As attowe managed to pull some fuel out of the "spool area " and for a gt28 standard location turbo ,it spools almost as the old oe turbo [emoji41]

Before and after boost graphs .

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Blue is before I fitted the new actuator and he tweeked the map .

Red is the 1.55 bar that it's now running .

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  • 1 month later...

Haven't done much to the scoob this year so far as it's far too cold atm [emoji57] .

Unfortunately I knew I had to replace my p.s pump soon, as the original 23yr old pump had been getting noisier by the day [emoji53].

I haven't made my mind up yet whether I wanted to do a newage pump conversion or mod a classic pump to take a separate custom reservoir. Checked the price of a new pump £380 [emoji33] [emoji57]

Luckily enough A friend is breaking his 93 wrx ,so I bought a pump off him for £20

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It was far too dirty (No way in my bay lol) so a degrease , prep n paint later .

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Before removing the noisy old pump I decided to flush the system through with some fresh p.s fluid , as it had never been changed in the 5 yrs I'd known the car .

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Then let the old pump drain the system and removed it .

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Finally fitted the new (25yr old) pump , filled the system ,started it up and bled it by gradually topping it up while turning the steering from lock to lock .

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Not as exciting as a remap but a well overdue bit of maintenance out of the way . At least the only whining I hear now is if I hit full boost and the Mrs is in the car [emoji23]

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  • 2 months later...

I've got a fair understanding of general injection and ignition timing from setting up old school carb and dizzy N/A engines.

 

After owning and setting up the avcr (electronic boost controller ) I'm now comfortable with boost target maps and solinoid duty adjustments to achieve those targets .

 

So although I'm more than happy with Clive attowe's skill in the dark arts of ecu mapping, i've decided to by the necessary equipment to data log and map apexi ecu's myself [emoji41]

 

Don't get me wrong , I'm not gonna jump in and start altering parameters but I intend on doing a bit of data logging and using the analogue input on the apexi ecu to add a wideband sensor .

 

So the first piece of equipment turned up last weekend .

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Aem x digital wideband kit to monitor air fuel ratio, hopefully I'll get this fitted at the weekend and order up a "hako f.c " interface to start logging data and learning something new [emoji41]

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  • 3 weeks later...

Don't understand why it takes a week for something to be delivered in the UK. when I bought the apexi hako interface from Oz and it only took 4.5 days to land on my door mat [emoji41]

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I've fitted the aem x afr gauge already .

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Just glad I did a bit of research before fitting it,or I'd have been panicking [emoji23] .

 

as when I'm in cruise (light throttle ) the afr is much leaner than on boost . So the peak data is miles out in comparison to when I'm at wot .

 

Hopefully get the hako interface fitted this weekend and start to log some data

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  • 1 month later...

 

 

 

 

Had a mate pop round and run me through the datalogit ,still plenty more research to be done before im happy to start "tweeking " .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have found that I'm definitely maxing the oe green maf [emoji57]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

as I'm getting the same 5115v peak reading on the maf voltage @1 bar as i am @ 1.45 bar. Its still fueling fine as the afr is on point [emoji41]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tomei maf plug is already in situ ,as i spliced that into the loom last year , so the bigger z32 maf will just plug in when I'm ready [emoji4] .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got to get a bit of maintenance out the way first [emoji57] when i did the 6 speed conversion ,although i decided to use the 6 speed clutch,flywheel and starter motor i retained the 5 speed clutch slave cylinder. ....... which promptly spat it dummy out after 5k mls [emoji34]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luckily enough i have a spare 5 speed slave and a 6 speed slave cylinder that come with the 6 speed box. I opted to fit the 6 speed slave cylinder as it looked slightly bigger and was newer [emoji41] .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All has been good with the clutch since but i noticed that the bigger bodied 6 speed slave had caused the clutch fluid feed pipe to rub on the heater matrix hose . I searched the net for months trying to find replacement samco heater matrix hoses separately but most tuners/shops only sell full kits [emoji57]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally found merlin motorsport who kindly contacted samco and had them make 2 for just over £60 delivered. I know i probably could've found another brand cheaper but samco have a lifetime warranty and are made in the uk [emoji6]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic of the area i had put hose repair tape on to stop the rubbing on the bigger clutch slave and the new samco hoses 29cb9e96ab988544de2929e5abe02491.jpgcf36ee3e47bdfe050ad93cb390bcdab1.jpg

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Been quite busy with diy lately ,so haven't had much time to do anything on the scooby [emoji57]

 

Did fit the samco heater matrix hoses before I went to cars on the green with my local club scooby city. It was proppa hot on the day and I didn't take many pics but here's the few i did take of our stand.

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Also been having a bit of uneven braking and have tracked it down to the front discs being pitted on the inner surfaces. So I got the scoob up on axle stands to give it a check over . Just as well as i found a steering rack gator split and a slight bit of play on the rear drivers side front wishbone bush 😕

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Nothing that a new gator and a call to Alyn at asperformance can't fix 😁

Seeing as the rear bushes needed replacement and I always tend to upgrade the parts i replace i ended up with some t2 uprated discs ,a whiteline anti lift kit (to replace the rear bushes) and thought I might as well buy uprated superpro front wishbone bushes to match 4a4c5d437df24b93916d61d0eb173833.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

I had softened the coilovers by 4 clicks all round for the nearly 1,000 mile round trip to Cornwall. Was well impressed with the comfort for the 6 .5 hr trip ,especially with 4 up and a boot full of cases . Kudos to my mapper too as 310 miles from a small jdm classic tank aint too shabby [emoji16]

Wife decided to hover the scoob out but 2 hrs later it kept just cranking over and wouldn't start [emoji848]
After checking all the usual stuff (fuses,relays ect) it was time to dust off the multimeter and investigate further [emoji852]

I downloaded a few wiring diagrams and About a hr later it looked like this [emoji849]
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Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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