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a few pics of my project so far


savage bulldogs
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Next up was porting the headers and turbo exhaust housing, a bit of cleaning and getting the engine ready to be fitted

porting the headers heres a before and after pic

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dialed in the cams and fitted the kevlar timing belt , I went with the gates belt rather than the cossie as id been told that their both made in the same factory but ,the cossie one costs £80 more .also I used the earlier hydraulic tensioner ,rather that the v3 and above spring loaded tensioner, as their stronger and less likely to fail

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fitted the ported headers and haywood and scott upipe

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then ran out of things to do untill i start to strip my scoob Think so i started cleaning parts under the bonnet started with the alternator as it looked a bit manky

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after a bit of time with a wire brush

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followed by cleaning a few other parts and painting the aux belt cover26366FEF-orig_zps58315b6c.jpg.8f71c20907fbd8733e78d05fa3ef9101.jpg

 

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Im sure the pink dipstick is up to someone's taste jay , but not my cuppa tea lol

got the converted tdo5 back from the engineers and will be fitting new seals on reasembly ,i know i wont be able to push the limits of my build with the tdo5 but it stands me in £40 for the welding and seals and should let me reach near the 340hp mark after its run in:cool:

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made a start on a friday evening stripping auxiliaries and inlet off my scoob so i could start cleaning prepping and painting them and there was'nt a great deal left under the bonnet by the time id finished 😢

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once the rad, alternator and power steering pump are off the engine loom unplugs from either end and you can remove the inlet manifold with inlet pipe,fuel lines,injectors,throttle body ect in one piece

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once id made note of where all the pipes and wires went i stripped cleaned everything .prepped and painted the fuel lines/rails and header tank and left them to dry over night . as the weathers been rubish today all iv managed to do is fit the water crossover pipe/and the senders and sensors to the new block .Then re assemble the inlet parts but, i will admit it took a lot of time working out the correct route for the fuel lines ,vacume pipes and wires anyways :rolleyes: as i did'nt have a section in my pdf manual for the v3 inlet so just worked of memory and a few pics i took ,did make life a bit easier having the other powder coated inlet ready assembled  .98B734C7-orig_zpsbd2692e9.jpg.d49424336c89e0a6cde8fba14460d5e7.jpg

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Mad how much cleaner the alternator looked not something I've looked at to clean will have a go myself when I next clean the engine now :)  

And the pipe work does look like a mine field. But all in all coming along very nice just shame coming into the the wrong time of year for outside jobs :( 

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Make sure you at least un plug the alternator (preferably remove it all together) as if you poke it with a with a wire brush connected it tends to spark /crackle and scare the crap outta you lol .

I was fairly lucky with the weather around spring time (As most of you know the engines fitted now with 2k on the clock) .just thought I'd share what I've been up to (with a few pics ) and in case it helps anyone else with their project .

Thanks again for the comments chaps .

Clive

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I was inspired by a few threads on other forums and gave up the pub to put my money and time to better use ;)  the build cost me just under £2k and probably 3 weeks of my time (evenings and weekends) 

 I used a spare inlet to remove the old engine and set about stripping the water crossover pipe and sensors and fitting them to the new engine with the td05 .
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then cleaned the engine bay up a bit and lowered the new engine in using the old inlet
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next up fitting the shiny inlet with everything attached
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once the auxiliaries and tmic were on filled it with fluids and turned it over by hand a few times
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unplugged the crank sensor (so it wouldn't start straight away) turned it over a few times with the starter motor to get the oil all round the internals before the initial start up😉 plugged the crank sensor back on took a deep breath and turned the key ...... started on the button sounding sweet with good oil pressure and heres a couple of pics of it fitted



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due to the 2ltr crank 500 hp is the max hp the engine should be good for. After the running period I fitted a fpr and 555 nismo injectors (which will be good for just over 400hp) and had it remapped by jgm.

while having it remapped it seems more than fast enough for road use at about 330/340 :) so I was in no hurry to do anything else for a while

but shortly after the remap my 5 speed turned into a 4 speed and died :unsure: so its now running a 6 speed with exedy pink box clutch .so It now would seem a shame not to find a bigger turbo to break the 400 hp mark the 6 speed clutch is good for :lol:

only really encountered 2 major problems so far :(

firstly I pushed the crank seal in to far which caused a major oil leak at the back end :ph34r: which meant I had to remove the engine ,replace and refit the crank oil seal then refit the engine doh lol

secondly the car pulled sweetly during the mapping session and simon said it was running about 330 hp /340 flbs and felt quick ,but a rolling road day showed only 290/ 270 :wacko:

after looking at the afr ,power and boost graphs both me and simon think their so similar to the previous map that im not running his new map :huh: due to my fandangled alarm system cutting the power to the esl'd ecu during the transfer of the maps so hes gonna have a squint at my scoob this weekend to try to suss whats up B)

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Imo the tmic isn't a very good design as it suffers from heat soak when stationery (scoop doesn't blow air through it ) I've also heard of newage tmics running close to 400 but, a fmic and induction kit will be next on the list for me .

Still haven't quite made my mind up on the "bigger " turbo as I'm toying with the idea of a twin scroll set up ;-)For drive ability on the road but ,I'd have to change sump (and oil pick up/dipstick) headers, upipe, downpipe and turbo if I did .which would give less lag than a bigger billet turbo but more cost and hassle

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Me too. It's the only thing holding me back from chasing more power. To get it between 350-400bhp (the sweet spot I want), I need a new, bigger turbo. But that's going to mean more lag. Which I really don't want. Trying to find a turbo that can take me to that sweet spot while having a fast spool is looking impossible... & that's a hell of a lot of work & money to get a twin scroll set up!

Think ill just get the centre de-cat and a induction kit fitted to make it as strong and responsive as possible with its current set upvand leave it there.

Anyway I digress, one of the most impressive engine bays I've ever seen! And a great thread documenting the work you did. Absolute top job!

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Yeah I like the idea of less lag too :-D as a big single scrolling turbo would take a bit longer to spool ,but would pack a bigger punch when it did come on full boost .which is why most like the pull of a turbocharged car compared to the smoother pull of a bigger n/a engine (which id imagine the twin scroll would be like).

I've got plenty of time to make my mind up anyways as either option would cost over £1k and after the engine build , 6 speed and the mrs boob job this year im pretty skint lol

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Cheers mick tbo most of the write up was copied and pasted off my local forum

Gambit the mrs did say I could have the forged build and the 6 speed if she could have new norks .

Who am I to argue :-D

Will admit i Might by her some low cut tops for xmas and bin the elbaich suspension for rock hard coil overs to get the most outta her mods though ;-)

I edited the 6 speed conversion in on this post as we lost a few pages when the forum had some server issues

You can use the 5 speed clutch,clutch slave, flywheel and starter although I chose to use 6 speed items that came with the box (due to the larger dia clutch plate handing more power).

The 6speed was out of a 04 plate uk sti with ppp and had female drive shaft sockets so I bought this stub axle conversion kit from importcarparts

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And one of it fitted (so it matches up with the classic drive shafts) with new drive/ prop shaft seals

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As i couldn't afford the rear 180 hubs and brakes I was lucky enough that the 97 uk turbo has a 3.54 ratio rear diff it matches the ratio of the UK sti box . Therefore I could retain my 160 rear diff, shafts and brakes until funds allow for the upgrade to the 180 set up .

Other than the stub axle kit and everything else needed was in the kit I bought .

6 speed uk gearbox

6 speed Gear shift

6 speed Cradle

6 speed Prop shaft

I had to use the bit of classic loom (with black and white plugs on) off the 5 speed so it matched up with the 97 loom but otherwise quite a straightforward conversion .

Although it was !Removed! heavy to fit and the weather's been ****e im well chuffed with the difference 6 speed has made

And glad the 5 speed spat it's dummy out now ;)

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Cheers mick tbo most of the wright up was copied and pasted off my local forum

Gambit the mrs did say I could have the forged build and the 6 speed if she could have new norks .

Who am I to argue :-D

Will admit i Might by her some low cut tops for xmas and bin the elbaich suspension for rock hard coil overs to get the most outta her mods though ;-)

 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:  top idea

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Sorry no pics im afraid fellas lol

I didn't think she should have had it done and she certainly didn't need it imo , at least she won't be spending any scooby modding money on shoes .....

As i Don't think she can see her feet anymore

Mind you if Id have had it my way the money would have bought a twin scroll conversion bigger brakes and a 2 door re Shell :-)

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Cheers mick tbo most of the wright up was copied and pasted off my local forum

Gambit the mrs did say I could have the forged build and the 6 speed if she could have new norks .

Who am I to argue :-D

Will admit i Might by her some low cut tops for xmas and bin the elbaich suspension for rock hard coil overs to get the most outta her mods though ;-)

any pics of boob job ,lol,just jking mate  ;0)

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