Siluro

Welcome. Pics please

Welcome. I do like those, don't see many.

Now that is a good question. Anyone that gets recommended another person will have there issues with them. Hard to get this answered. All I will say is as Tidgy told me best to get someone who does dyno and then checks it and if needed tweaks it on the road. Makes perfect sense to me now. My mapper only did the dyno (Tidgy told me after) and if I mention his name I am sure he will get flamed. TNT lol. I went with him cause he dynoed it on RCM's rolling road and I thought how can it be a bad choice. I imagine anything RCM don't know about Scoobies ain't worth knowing.

Yes this is a thing. Many horror stories. Takes them seconds. One guy popped into fish n chip shop and they stole his. Hybrids are targeted as the cats are in best shape. Nissan sell an addon I think to secure your cat.

That Thermostat wow. I guess it did not work (open/shut) and someone just permanently opened it. Did someone have your trouble with trapped air and thought this would help. Mine is a PIA (as most scoobys) to fill and with the slowest poor I still managed to get air trapped in it. Option B may end badly, is all I can add.

If ain't broke don't fix it springs to mind. There was a stand at Goodwood FOS and we spoke to the guys. As soon as I mentioned WRX they eye lite up and they were not interested in my dads diesel anymore. They said they have really good results with Subarus. Hmmm I guess they thought, oh WRX guy with some money blah blah. Remember they are salesmen and they will tell you what you want to hear.

I thought about this and it probably does work but think about it the carbon build up will just return rather quickly. If your car cannot pass emissions then go for it. Terraclean probably the best one out of the bunch but not worth it IMO.

I am also an untrained eye and the play in the turbo looks bad to me. Has anyone else watched the video? They spin a 100K rpm plus so ther should be virtually zero play no? Ok I have just checked and it does seem ok. You learn something every day. Ignore me Edit: the play is taken out with the oil when it is feed into the turbo bearing and shaft. It makes sense now. The Garrett full ball-bearing turbo is designed to have clearance between the bearing cartridge and center housing for hydrodynamic damping in addition to the internal clearances of the bearing cartridge itself. Hydrodynamic damping uses the incompressible properties of a liquid (oil in this case) and the space around the bearing cartridge to dampen the shaft motion of the rotating assembly. When the turbo is new, or has not operated for a long period of time allowing most of the oil to drain out, the rotating assembly will move more in the radial direction than a typical journal-bearing turbo because there is no oil in the center housing. This condition is normal. As long as the shaft wheel spins freely and the wheels don't contact their respective housings, the assembly will function properly.

I don't know how you manage it lol. Had to use my PPP STI how awful and then off to Iceland. Have a great trip anyway.

Welcome You will be better off starting a new thread. This one started in 2014. Sorry I cannot add anything useful to your situation.

You say it was over filled by 1.5 litre but do not sound sure. Overfilling that much is not good. If it was me I would check all the breather pipes and clear them out and live with it. As it was overfilled I would expect these to be full of oil too. It may just go away once it has cleared. Maybe someone wiser can point you in the right direction.

If still over filled then drain some out, the oil expands when it gets hot. If you drain some and the smoke stops then your ok. Remember it is a flat engine so probably even more important not to overfill. (never overfill any engine)

Spark plugs, Coil packs. Is it spark or fuel?

This is a UK club but you never know someone might help you.

How badly was it overfilled and how long did you drive it like that? Overfilling is bad news as oil gets pushed through the seals? I overfilled my gearbox once ended up pushing oil past seal and contaminated the clutch, I learnt that lesson over 30 years ago. Took me ages to clear out the bellhousing. You live and learn, hopefully not the hard way. Youth knows best lol

@MR B you keep having to say the same thing again and again it is very sad. Does anyone do a proper job these days. Good luck James. MR B always talks sense. I would take his advise.

Take your time. You could probably do more damage changing the spark plugs TBH.

Can drain coolant by either removing bottom rad hose and thermostat or on Hawkeye there is a drain tap on bottom left of rad. Plastic tap. Careful as this tap can easily break its wings as plastic goes brittle.

Not sure from that link. http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=184&products_id=2706 These are but bit more expensive.

Yep pilot 4s have a good rep. Not tried them myself but may do when I need. My mates 5 litre mustang has them on and he reckons there great.

Changing the coolant is simple but very easy to get an airlock. Fill from the back hose connected to the filler tank not the Radiator like my local Subaru dealership did. F**king fools, as a plumber you should know you bleed a system from the highest point (they paid for it as it was all caught on dashcam). Fill very slowly until filler tank is nearly full then bleed. Be careful cause it is very easy to get an airlock and then the engine may overheat. The temp gauge is very slow so if the fans do not turn off when expected during bleed process kill the motor and let it cool. Mine got up to 97 degree before the needle even moved. I use a OBD dongle to get real time temp readings. If you get an airlock sometimes the only way to remove it is to start all over again. Might be wise to park with the front higher than the back to help the air to rise. Take your time when filling and bleeding.

Does this link help. Not a guide but an exploded view http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_39/body_equipment_interior/instrument_panel/

Plenty of vids on YouTube to guide you. Not that bad a job really.

If it is a high mileage car and no history of water pump change I would do it with the cambelt. It just makes sense to me to do both. The impeller gets corroded by the water and can cause cavitation which can cause vapor to form. This will make the cooling system less efficient. My last cambelt change was <£400, i did not change the waterpump as the car only had 30K, I wish I had now though.

I used HEL and they are not an issue to fit.