Tlag

The only real way to tell for sure is get the code read

Did you use Tescos Momentum? That's 99 octane. It's possible that may be too much for your car if yours is a UK car. I doubt it but it's possible.

Savage, that's a good idea. I knew I could have two maps but couldn't really think of a reason for a 'lesser' map but that makes good sense. Well, MOT booked for tomorrow so today was cleaning day. It's been stood under a tree for a while so it was a bit messy. Also fitted my refurb end rims

If staying with the 4G, ESL is the only option. I played with the idea of using an Impreza loom to get more options but stuck with the legacy one in the end

Yeah mines just over a year in and about 2 weeks from mot, I hope. Great build! Nice set of components. What have you got in mind for the ecu?

The plaque itself looks a bit odd. It's too big for where it's placed and it's not on level. Just observations.

Don't panic, that all looks very normal. Oil residue/vapour finds its way out over the years. If you took the IC off you will find a small amount of oil running around inside it. It's not ideal but it's not anything to panic about. It might simply be a pipe clip not as tight as it was when it left the factory or something similar. The stuff you have seen has built up over time, it's not suddenly appeared.

Once run in, the next step will be a rotated TD06 20g. It's obviously less power than the GT I had but it should still be able to deliver more power than the gearbox can take. :)

Nothing a welder and an angle grinder couldn't sort out

I've not known it done before so I can't says it's possible or not. However, dimensions should be very similar. The engine bay is different in that on the gen 2, the bulkhead at the back of the engine bay is the bottom of the windscreen. On the gen 3, there is a space under the windscreen behind the bulkhead for things like wiper motor, etc. Having said that, what you are looking to do, may not be affected by that.

After far too many months of the car just sitting, mainly due to personal injury, I'm back on the case.

Back in 2011, I led a group of 9 twin turbo Legacies on a 2200 mile trip roundEurope in 10 days so it's approaching what you are looking at. Make sure the car is well serviced before you go, use the best quality fuel available and if you have to use lower RON fuel, use additive and keep off boost until you have at least gone through half a tank of the good stuff again. As for spares, it depends what you are capable off at the road side. Between us, we took spark plugs, air filter, top and bottom rad hoses, vacuum line and some fuel hose. On the trip, between us, we used the fuel line due to a split. We used a top rad hose and we ended up buying and changing an oil filter due to someone tightening his with a wrench when he serviced it and making a pin prick hole in it. We all took full size spare wheels too rather than the space saver.

Have a good look under the rear of the engine. You are looking to see if the gearbox is wet with oil and probably the underside of the floor too. If it is, it's probably the rear crank seal. If the areas above are not wet, look inside the under tray. If that's wet and oily, it can be a few things, sump gasket snd sump plug are less likely than front crank seal.

Those two items won't affect the mapping in any way. The strut brace will stiffen up the suspension and you will definitely notice it. It's a good upgrade. The silicone is really only for looks.

Hi and welcome, That is one great looking Legacy. Black on black looks superb

What sort of age car are you looking for? JDM, UK spec? Do you need ground clearence? What do you want the car to do for you? The Legacy range over the years covers almost every angle: saloon, wagon, Outback, 2.0l, 2.5l, 3.0l, auto, manual, non turbo, single turbo, twin turbo, twinscroll turbo. With the correct servicing and looked after, they are as reliable as any car can be. It's only when they are not looked after and servicing is ignored when the problems occur.

As an owner of many twin turbo Legacies over a few years, I know the luggage space is huge. I think it's bigger than that of a forester. Having said that, for similar money as the STI Fozzy, have a look at a later twin scroll Legacy. The turbo system is far less problematic. The Fozzy has greater ride height than the Legacy but is slightly smaller inside. The fozzy also stands out visually whereas the Zlegacy is a real sleeper.

According to Garrett, these are good for 400-680bhp. https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/catalog_pdf/GarrettGT3582R_7_8_9.pdf

With my health returning, I decided to make a start on clearing the decks of things I no longer need. I have decided to go a different route now so my rotated set up is for sale. Other things Subaru related are in my other auctions. It's all on Ebay so far. This is the link to the listing for the turbo. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331486614689 I,m also selling the rotated pipework for the turbo in another auction.

I think I would get the diff looked at to see if the oil level is correct. Sounds like it could be getting hot through lack of oil content. Just a guess to be honest, but it's somewhere to start

"Assume nothing and test everything" That is so true.

^ oops, sorry. That will teach me to read things properly before posting.

Sounds like a possible fuel pump issue. Sit in the car with the doors shut. Once it's very quiet, turn the ign keys until all the dash lights come on. You should hear a whirring sound for about 2-3 seconds. It's the fuel pump priming the injection system. If you can't hear it, the fuel pump is very suspect.

The two black plugs: They are under the dash with a load of other plugs that largely don't connect to anything. Look under the dash between the steering column and the centre console. Amongst them, you will see two, single wire black plugs and two single wire green plugs. Plug the black ones together, switch the key until the dash lights come on and watch the check engine light. Lomg flashes are counted as 10's and short ones as 1's. If more than one code is stored, it will run through them in sequence before starting over again, so you have to keep your ey on it for a while to make sure you have them all. To be honest, even if your mechanic has a code reader that can read it, this way is probably quicker.

A code reader won't work anyway on that age of legacy. You have to plug the two black wires under the dash together and then count the long and short "check engine lights"