savage bulldogs

It's quite common to get different max boost levels in each gear . if your in 1st going downhill at 3k rpm using half throttle they'll be less pressure in the manifold than being in 5th at 3k going uphill using full throttle. This difference in inlet manifold pressure will affect the pressure in the vacuum lines that operate the boost control system (giving under boost or over boost) I dare say you've either got a decat downpipe or someone has removed the ristrictor pill that subaru put in the boost control vac line system to stop vac line pressure variations [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice clean looking early classic [emoji41] Bigger wheels might help a bit but you'd probably be better off fitting a 5 speed box and rear diff with a uk 3. 54 (longer) ratio if you want to do less rpm on the carriage way. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome. Lovely looking type r you've got there If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mine is set about 20 mm lower than the standard classic sti (45mm drop on a wrx or uk ) on meister r zeta-r coilovers . Even with a front splitter i haven't had any clearance issues on the road but they were too harsh with the dampening set at 16/ 32 . So it's currently set at 10/32 and it's a much more comfortable ride than a friends bug sti with tein lowering springs . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ah fury muff, I've only ever seen 2 newage back boxes and they both only had 2 hangers on the back box (admittedly they were both custom made ) . Whereas the 10 + classic systems I've seen had 3 hangers . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The back box on classics have 3 hangers whereas the newage (bug onwards) only has 2 . You'll probably have to fit the full turbo back as most classics have different length exhaust sections compared to newage . Even though the turbo flange to rear hanger (total length) is the same . Definitely buy a new turbo outlet gasket and if the downpipe hasn't been off in a while it might be worth getting a few new studs and nuts [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I'm not keen on those rims or the stretched tyre look either. as I'd always be worried that they'd pop off the rims when cornering hard but as you say each to their own with cars n modding [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm unsure as I've never worked on a auto . on the pre 00 impreza it's a on the same side as the dipstick but a bit further back (black plug in this pic) On the o4 sti 6 speed it's located closer to the dip stick . On the classic manuals there's only 3 electronic things attached to the box .... earth , reverse sensors (black n white plugs) and the speed sensor. Sorry I couldn't be of much help If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Vehicle speed sensor is near the gearbox oil dip stick (on manuals) check the plug for corrosion on the terminals and any breaks in the insulation in the wires leading to the sensor . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You could try checking if they've remembered to reconnect the gearbox earth as if not it might affect the engine loom earth . Also on classic wrx's /uks they only have one fan but the loom has 2 plugs (1 extra for the sti twin fan models ) . Maybe if they've plugged the fan into the wrong plug it might cause it to run all the time ? Are your running temps normal and are both the top and bottom rad hoses getting hot . Cos if not it could be a air lock or sticky thermostat. Although they shouldn't have to drain the coolant to change a gearbox [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's definitely a big difference in size from a ty52 5 speed to a 6 speed Think you can work out which is which lol. Classic UK'S and wrx's don't come with forged pistons and have less agressive cams than the classic sti's. generally most mappers will only map them to 320/330 ,so a 6 speed is probably a bit overkill imo at that level of tune but I did strip 3rd gear in my v3 uk 5 speed at about 330hp. If you intend on doing a lot of track days look into a sump baffle as scoobs can suffer from oil starvation or oil surge when pushed hard for long periods of time in the twisties. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My mate built that a 558 bhp classic which I posted a vid of a while back . He had a build thread on scabby net that was pretty good too . the evo did look a little outta place wedged in between the scoobs But I appreciate most rapid motors regardless of marques . The p1 was probably the quickest car on our stand seeing as it's running 470hp/ 450fbls [emoji7] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do you mean the "fusible link" that looks like a bit of wire with a spade connection on either side? If so import car parts sell them 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I think kev with the 555 was there with another club. our stand ended up with a my mates evo and a supra to bump the numbers up . Don't worry though the evo couldn't over take me [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Didn't take many pics at car on the green but it was a cracking day out .someone else took a few but unfortunately I'm to knackered to work out how to share the whole album off photo bucket . I'll try to sort a link to the full album tomorrow lol This might work http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/rob-stopper/media/Cars%20on%20the%20Green%202016/DSC_0297_zpsel84qdbb.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Oh dear [emoji55] At least you wasn't hurt . A mate of mine hit a stag in his transit .... It came through the windscreen ,landed on his lap and literally kicked his spleen to bits . Then casually hopped off the dash and ran off leaving my mate with internal bleeding [emoji33] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you're proppa stuck and need to get it back together. ... the window washer tube is the same diameter (so you could use that until you get some new stuff ). As for buying it I normally get my generic silicone hoses from "ash" (Auto Silicone Hoses) but there's loads of companies like boost junkies that sell vac line kits on ebay If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's not been done in the last 5k , oil , oil filter ,air filter . If it's not been done in the last 30k cambelt. Dyno health check . Then either suspension or brake mods or save a bit of cash for when the rear shocks start knocking ( common fault on newage ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It could be anything electronic as moisture would evaporate when warm and materials expand with heat (somtimes closing gaps in insulation) Usual suspects for a misfire on a early classic are . Coilpacks breaking down or the insulation getting brittle due to heat . Spark plug condition. Both of these can be visually checked before replacement and the plug that's blacker will normally be the cylinder that's missing . Check the plug gaps and for cracks in the porcelain. Check the coil pack plugs and insulation for cracks or arc'ing marks on the heads where the plugs are. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do the bonnet vents have the covers on the underneath ? . As my brv removed the cover under the drivers side vent . Rain used to drip onto the coil pack on cylinder #1 and cause a misfire when cold . Or It could be plugs or the coilpacks themselves breaking down causing a misfire. As a misfire would give extra knock due to the piston not being forced down by the combustion . Also would throw up a o2 code due to the unburnt fuel passing the o2 sensor . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The early wrx's had a tdo5 16g as standard which is good for 350hp with supporting mods .It will have tdo5 #$## on the raised numbers located on the turbo coldside (silver compressor housing that the black air intake pipe connects to ) The decat is probably causing the overboost as it's much less restrictive than the oe catted downpipe. Which in turn is making the ecu throw in more fuel to correct the air fuel ratio .It's difficult to say if it's running safe and the only way you'll know is to get it on a dyno tbh . 3k sounds about right for a tdo5 16g to hit full boost . Although the scooby comuitity is about the friendliest I've come across, most of the scooby specialists don't like giving trade secrets away . Hence why I'm so keen to help with what info I've picked up while working on my scoob [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The z4 oe subaru ecu is often used as a upgrade for the other jdm v1's and v2's that run 220 to 240 as standard. I'd imagine if the cams ,turbo,compression ratio ,fuel grade and injector size is the same . Theoretically it should work on a standard car . I never fit any major engine mods like decats, fmic's ect .. (anything that might higher boost or airflow levels) without getting the map tweeked before I "give it some beans ". It's probably reducing timing and over fuelling to compensate for the overboost your getting . Have you got the standard tmic and what turbo is on it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah the new baffled catch can will vta and if it still humms I'll vent it through a pipe at the bottom of the bay . It looks like a good bit of kit but I won't fit it untill I've got everything here to fit the parallel fuel rails at the same time . I made a spacer to get over the differences between the phase 1.5 fuel rails and the fixing bolt holes on my phase 1 inlet manifold. But I'm not happy with the end result and don't want to take any chances with fuel lines leaking . So I took the plunge and ordered some phase 1 billet ally fuel rails from Chris @ cdf [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Z4 is a oe ecu code that subaru put in some early jdm wrx saloons that had the tdo5 16g . It runs a bit more boost and produces 260 hp as standard. You'd have to Google the model code of you scoob to see what ecu it should have as standard. I don't really know much about what the standard ecu electronics should look like .As I've only ever removed the cover from 1 v1/v2 ecu and that already had a esl daughter board fitted . I'm unsure why he can't map it and he certainly knows his stuff but I'd have thought he would have a "stock" of v1 &v2 ecu's with daughter boards already fitted . Then just taken your old ecu on a exchange basis to fit a board in that to take too the next customer. Or suggested that you buy a second hand v1/ v2 ecu (about £40) for him to fit a esl board to . Early esl does run a different language to v3 onwards, so maybe he doesn't have the software ? There's a couple of other ecu's that can be supplied and mapped sub £800 price tag which are available for the v1/v2 imprezas . Alcatek /simtek ecu's about £400 second hand + mapping you'd have to check the functions via Google (as I've never personally owned 1) I run the old apexi fc ecu about £350 second hand + mapping. which doesn't run mafless but has hand controller displays to help monitor live parameters. Maybe shoot him a email and ask him what other option would suit your budget /needs . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Spent a couple of hours trying to get the v3/v4 phase 1.5 parallel fuel rails to fit my v1 phase 1 inlet manifold But I'm not happy with how secure they are and won't take any chances when there's a possibility that I could end up spraying shell's finest all over the bay [emoji33] So took the plunge and bought some cdf billet v1 fuel rails to mate up with my braided lines [emoji12] Also had a chat with Tim @ opie oils and ordered some fresh millers nano drive, Mahle oil filter and sump plug washer . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊