savage bulldogs

Nice shopping list [emoji41] I Don't think you'll need injectors as the v5/v6 phase 2 set up normally runs yellow injectors as standard, which are 440cc and good for 350hp with supporting mods [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I know ecu's will reduce timing and add fuel if it senses exessive knock but I don't know if it will add fuel if the afr reading from the o2 sensor leans off . The map sensor is capable of reading the negative pressures when off boost but Afaik the maf gives the mapper another airflow reading to help tune the afr finer . I suppose Mpg doesn't really matter if it's a weekend toy or track . I personally like the idea of having 2 sensors measuring air flow as it's does help you spot intake and fmic leaks early by throwing up a code . Youngy Sorry for filling your threads with my theory ,lol . How much boost is a bit of a "how longs a bit of string" sort of question tbh, bud As the only safe way to know how much boost your engine will take is to monitor the afr ,knock and detonation while adding boost (Ie on a dyno) . I think most mappers will map a uk or wrx to 1.3 bar but they add fuel, adjust timing and smooth the boost curve by "re mapping" the parameters as they monitor As most turbo engines will eat themselves if they lean off under boost . I'd suggest a full service and dyno run if you can't afford to pay for a remap . That way you know the car is safe while you save [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

it sounds like the linkage needs a refresh if the gear selection is a bit vague. Have you checked the gearbox oil level and condition of the clutch fluid ? Do you know when the gearbox, diff , clutch plate and clutch fluid were last changed ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm not a mapper just a bit bias with the maf debate (as most of you probably know ) I've tried to list a few of the pros n cons I've experienced [emoji6] I think most delete the maf as some years are prone to failure and the v1 /v2 maf only flows enough to hit 360 hp ,due to its smaller dia tube than v3 onwards (which run 400bhp +) The main bonus would be when going "rotated" and you make the intake side of the turbo bigger dia ie ... by fitting 3" dia coldside intake , intake pipework (including maf delete pipe) and large cone with spun trumpet , which would aid spool. If it's just a maf delete there's no way the ecu can take "air density" reading's into the map . So the mapper has to compensate for colder air and not be able to trim fuel as well . Although this can be lessened by having a air temp sensor installed and calibrated by the mapper . Although a air temp sensor does help with trim you can't trim it as "fine" as you can with a maf . As You can't measure "flow" with the map sensor ,just inlet manifold pressure . My mappers a bit old school but he prefers mafs as he doesn't like relying on just 1 sensor to tell you how much air is available to add to the fuel . you can buy bigger aftermarket mafs but they're not cheap . my mates 3.3 ltr turbo mk1 golf runs a 3" dia coldside, intake pipework and pro am maf [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

We covered it on the ESL mapping course I think thats probably why all marques of turbo cars have a maf when they leave the factory and I'm sure they wouldn't have them fitted if it wasn't needed, as it would save them a fortune [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You could try getting a 4 wheel alignment done, as this would show you if your camber or Caistor is out .As tracking only checks 1 axis on just the front wheels . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's quite common to get different max boost levels in each gear . if your in 1st going downhill at 3k rpm using half throttle they'll be less pressure in the manifold than being in 5th at 3k going uphill using full throttle. This difference in inlet manifold pressure will affect the pressure in the vacuum lines that operate the boost control system (giving under boost or over boost) I dare say you've either got a decat downpipe or someone has removed the ristrictor pill that subaru put in the boost control vac line system to stop vac line pressure variations [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice clean looking early classic [emoji41] Bigger wheels might help a bit but you'd probably be better off fitting a 5 speed box and rear diff with a uk 3. 54 (longer) ratio if you want to do less rpm on the carriage way. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome. Lovely looking type r you've got there If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mine is set about 20 mm lower than the standard classic sti (45mm drop on a wrx or uk ) on meister r zeta-r coilovers . Even with a front splitter i haven't had any clearance issues on the road but they were too harsh with the dampening set at 16/ 32 . So it's currently set at 10/32 and it's a much more comfortable ride than a friends bug sti with tein lowering springs . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ah fury muff, I've only ever seen 2 newage back boxes and they both only had 2 hangers on the back box (admittedly they were both custom made ) . Whereas the 10 + classic systems I've seen had 3 hangers . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The back box on classics have 3 hangers whereas the newage (bug onwards) only has 2 . You'll probably have to fit the full turbo back as most classics have different length exhaust sections compared to newage . Even though the turbo flange to rear hanger (total length) is the same . Definitely buy a new turbo outlet gasket and if the downpipe hasn't been off in a while it might be worth getting a few new studs and nuts [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I'm not keen on those rims or the stretched tyre look either. as I'd always be worried that they'd pop off the rims when cornering hard but as you say each to their own with cars n modding [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm unsure as I've never worked on a auto . on the pre 00 impreza it's a on the same side as the dipstick but a bit further back (black plug in this pic) On the o4 sti 6 speed it's located closer to the dip stick . On the classic manuals there's only 3 electronic things attached to the box .... earth , reverse sensors (black n white plugs) and the speed sensor. Sorry I couldn't be of much help If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Vehicle speed sensor is near the gearbox oil dip stick (on manuals) check the plug for corrosion on the terminals and any breaks in the insulation in the wires leading to the sensor . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You could try checking if they've remembered to reconnect the gearbox earth as if not it might affect the engine loom earth . Also on classic wrx's /uks they only have one fan but the loom has 2 plugs (1 extra for the sti twin fan models ) . Maybe if they've plugged the fan into the wrong plug it might cause it to run all the time ? Are your running temps normal and are both the top and bottom rad hoses getting hot . Cos if not it could be a air lock or sticky thermostat. Although they shouldn't have to drain the coolant to change a gearbox [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's definitely a big difference in size from a ty52 5 speed to a 6 speed Think you can work out which is which lol. Classic UK'S and wrx's don't come with forged pistons and have less agressive cams than the classic sti's. generally most mappers will only map them to 320/330 ,so a 6 speed is probably a bit overkill imo at that level of tune but I did strip 3rd gear in my v3 uk 5 speed at about 330hp. If you intend on doing a lot of track days look into a sump baffle as scoobs can suffer from oil starvation or oil surge when pushed hard for long periods of time in the twisties. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My mate built that a 558 bhp classic which I posted a vid of a while back . He had a build thread on scabby net that was pretty good too . the evo did look a little outta place wedged in between the scoobs But I appreciate most rapid motors regardless of marques . The p1 was probably the quickest car on our stand seeing as it's running 470hp/ 450fbls [emoji7] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do you mean the "fusible link" that looks like a bit of wire with a spade connection on either side? If so import car parts sell them 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I think kev with the 555 was there with another club. our stand ended up with a my mates evo and a supra to bump the numbers up . Don't worry though the evo couldn't over take me [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Didn't take many pics at car on the green but it was a cracking day out .someone else took a few but unfortunately I'm to knackered to work out how to share the whole album off photo bucket . I'll try to sort a link to the full album tomorrow lol This might work http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/rob-stopper/media/Cars%20on%20the%20Green%202016/DSC_0297_zpsel84qdbb.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Oh dear [emoji55] At least you wasn't hurt . A mate of mine hit a stag in his transit .... It came through the windscreen ,landed on his lap and literally kicked his spleen to bits . Then casually hopped off the dash and ran off leaving my mate with internal bleeding [emoji33] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you're proppa stuck and need to get it back together. ... the window washer tube is the same diameter (so you could use that until you get some new stuff ). As for buying it I normally get my generic silicone hoses from "ash" (Auto Silicone Hoses) but there's loads of companies like boost junkies that sell vac line kits on ebay If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's not been done in the last 5k , oil , oil filter ,air filter . If it's not been done in the last 30k cambelt. Dyno health check . Then either suspension or brake mods or save a bit of cash for when the rear shocks start knocking ( common fault on newage ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It could be anything electronic as moisture would evaporate when warm and materials expand with heat (somtimes closing gaps in insulation) Usual suspects for a misfire on a early classic are . Coilpacks breaking down or the insulation getting brittle due to heat . Spark plug condition. Both of these can be visually checked before replacement and the plug that's blacker will normally be the cylinder that's missing . Check the plug gaps and for cracks in the porcelain. Check the coil pack plugs and insulation for cracks or arc'ing marks on the heads where the plugs are. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊