savage bulldogs

Do the bonnet vents have the covers on the underneath ? . As my brv removed the cover under the drivers side vent . Rain used to drip onto the coil pack on cylinder #1 and cause a misfire when cold . Or It could be plugs or the coilpacks themselves breaking down causing a misfire. As a misfire would give extra knock due to the piston not being forced down by the combustion . Also would throw up a o2 code due to the unburnt fuel passing the o2 sensor . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The early wrx's had a tdo5 16g as standard which is good for 350hp with supporting mods .It will have tdo5 #$## on the raised numbers located on the turbo coldside (silver compressor housing that the black air intake pipe connects to ) The decat is probably causing the overboost as it's much less restrictive than the oe catted downpipe. Which in turn is making the ecu throw in more fuel to correct the air fuel ratio .It's difficult to say if it's running safe and the only way you'll know is to get it on a dyno tbh . 3k sounds about right for a tdo5 16g to hit full boost . Although the scooby comuitity is about the friendliest I've come across, most of the scooby specialists don't like giving trade secrets away . Hence why I'm so keen to help with what info I've picked up while working on my scoob [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The z4 oe subaru ecu is often used as a upgrade for the other jdm v1's and v2's that run 220 to 240 as standard. I'd imagine if the cams ,turbo,compression ratio ,fuel grade and injector size is the same . Theoretically it should work on a standard car . I never fit any major engine mods like decats, fmic's ect .. (anything that might higher boost or airflow levels) without getting the map tweeked before I "give it some beans ". It's probably reducing timing and over fuelling to compensate for the overboost your getting . Have you got the standard tmic and what turbo is on it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah the new baffled catch can will vta and if it still humms I'll vent it through a pipe at the bottom of the bay . It looks like a good bit of kit but I won't fit it untill I've got everything here to fit the parallel fuel rails at the same time . I made a spacer to get over the differences between the phase 1.5 fuel rails and the fixing bolt holes on my phase 1 inlet manifold. But I'm not happy with the end result and don't want to take any chances with fuel lines leaking . So I took the plunge and ordered some phase 1 billet ally fuel rails from Chris @ cdf [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The pre early 96 (v1/v2) esl daughter board didn't used to have quite as many features as the v3 onwards board (didn't run mafless or anti lag ect ) . So make sure you check before investing in a esl set up as I'm unsure if they've updated the early software. Most mappers can give you a mild anti lag by mapping exessive pops n bangs in at full throttle position . By getting the injectors to dump a bit of fuel in just after combustion. Most don't offer to do so on a road car though as you can't switch it off . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Z4 is a oe ecu code that subaru put in some early jdm wrx saloons that had the tdo5 16g . It runs a bit more boost and produces 260 hp as standard. You'd have to Google the model code of you scoob to see what ecu it should have as standard. I don't really know much about what the standard ecu electronics should look like .As I've only ever removed the cover from 1 v1/v2 ecu and that already had a esl daughter board fitted . I'm unsure why he can't map it and he certainly knows his stuff but I'd have thought he would have a "stock" of v1 &v2 ecu's with daughter boards already fitted . Then just taken your old ecu on a exchange basis to fit a board in that to take too the next customer. Or suggested that you buy a second hand v1/ v2 ecu (about £40) for him to fit a esl board to . Early esl does run a different language to v3 onwards, so maybe he doesn't have the software ? There's a couple of other ecu's that can be supplied and mapped sub £800 price tag which are available for the v1/v2 imprezas . Alcatek /simtek ecu's about £400 second hand + mapping you'd have to check the functions via Google (as I've never personally owned 1) I run the old apexi fc ecu about £350 second hand + mapping. which doesn't run mafless but has hand controller displays to help monitor live parameters. Maybe shoot him a email and ask him what other option would suit your budget /needs . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Spent a couple of hours trying to get the v3/v4 phase 1.5 parallel fuel rails to fit my v1 phase 1 inlet manifold But I'm not happy with how secure they are and won't take any chances when there's a possibility that I could end up spraying shell's finest all over the bay [emoji33] So took the plunge and bought some cdf billet v1 fuel rails to mate up with my braided lines [emoji12] Also had a chat with Tim @ opie oils and ordered some fresh millers nano drive, Mahle oil filter and sump plug washer . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If the standard grey 380's are in situ they're good for 290hp max . The cheapest option is to buy some phase 2 yellow 440's (about £40) then fit them into your v1 phase 1 fuel rails with "phase adapters" (about £40 including new O rings ) . 440's can hit 350hp on standard fuel pressure with supporting mods .which is classic impreza gearbox braking power ,so unless you are upgrading the drive train, they'll be ample for most classics . I personally run (nissan) nismo 555cc injectors with phase adapters in my phase 1 rails . Which should be good for just over 400hp . They just need a tab filing off the plug to plug n play on classics. Which ever route you take ,Just thought I'd mention that you can't just change injector sizes without remapping. As the fuelling map will open the injectors for the same length of time but the increase in size of injectors will mean that more fuel will enter the chamber. Meaning it will over fuel and cause bore wash (strip the oil off the bore walls) if not mapped shortly afterwards. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice collection of olds cool scoobies[emoji41] I'd have probably been interested in a brat project, if I had the space to put it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You shouldn't get any residue from a air filter (it's supposed to filter particles not create em ) .maybe try giving it a clean with some electrical contact cleaner ,wait for it to dry and then refit it . The filter could be causing all the symptoms . If it's clogged it could be restricting airflow enough to affect the mixture. Which in turn might cause the starting, idle and holding back symptoms. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Try mark agin @ lateral performance, alyn @ Asperformance or Chris @ cdf . They normally cost about £40 but they normally come with new injector seals included If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud [emoji106] Afaik The v3 to v6 map sensor just plugs in but it has to be calibrated by the mapper in order for it to work (5 mins to fit and best done on the day after the esl'd ecu's been fitted ) Yours will have a phase 1, side feed fuel set up ,so phase 1 yellow 440's will drop straight in but these are getting thin on the ground now days . The other option is phase 2 yellow 440's these are found in all v5/v6 imprezas and will fit into your rails with "phase adapters" . Both sets of yellows have the same plugs (so there's no wiring mods needed) but once fitted the car will be running very rich due to the bigger injector capacity pushing more fuel in . So if you do have to drive it to Andy bear this in mind and keep it under 3k and off boost . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah the standard cat is quite restrictive so once decatted the turbo can spool much easier. Coupled with a induction cone it can make the ecu struggle a bit to keep the boost and fuelling in check with all that extra air flowing freely. I think the z4 runs 0.8 bar standard max so your probably getting fuel cut due to it wanting to make more boost (due to the mods) .Then either the oe map fuel n boost parameters being exceeded or it nearly maxing out the early map sensor 1.2 bar limit and it "cutting" to protect itself . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any v1 (92) to v2 (early 96) ecu will fit into your loom harness but i wouldn't just fit a second hand esl'd ecu as the map could be way off what suits your engine . The wrx z4 ecu punches out 260 hp as standard and classic ecu's do seem to "learn" better than newage ecu's . I've personally never added a decat or changed from standard air box to cone filter without mapping shortly after . As a free flowing decat and cone will allow a lot more air in and out of the engine than the original fuel map is set for . If you want to break the 300hp barrier I'd also look at getting some yellow 440cc injectors, as the current grey 380's max at 290 hp ish . Then a v3 onwards map sensor as well ,Cos the v1 /v2 map sensor maxes out at 1.2 bar . Both the later map sensor and yellow injectors should cost under a £100 in total but should gain you a extra 40 hp ish once fitted and mapped [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Only reason I mentioned it is cos it would be nice to know why it's happened (so you can avoid it happening again) . It would be good hear it's just popped the head gasket and lost compression but they normally only burn oil when rings or turbos fail . So to have the combination of oily smoke and lack of compression means it probably rings . Best of luck and let us know what you find when stripping it down [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome , there's plenty of colours and opinions, so have a look on Google images to get a idea of what you like . I went for polar black on my silver classic ,which is gloss black with green, gold ,silver and blue metallic fleck . The rota rims were originally anthracite (grey ish ) and didn't "shine" enough ,so they were lost in the arches If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did you check the deck face of the block for trueness and the piston to deck height before putting the new heads on ? As both of those measurements need to be taken into account when calculating your new head gasket thickness ,especially if you intend to use different version heads on different version bottom ends . Any of those variations could cause a uneven compression ratio and cause the head gasket to fail but scoobs normally push combustion gasses into the coolant when the headgaskets fail (not burn oil) . So I'd check the bores for wear (especially ovality and taper) if everything "looks" ok when you whip the heads off . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You've changed [emoji53] ...... ever since you got that mitsi for the Mrs . Next thing you know your be telling us your selling the wagon[emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Don't get me wrong I'm not "scoopist" and wave at any scooby driver but the old boy farmers in their out backs don't often wave back [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you're fitting them yourself I took a few pic's and gave a few pointers when fitting mine on my sticky build thread. It's on the last last 2 pages (I think) Mines a classic but they're fairly similar [emoji6] I'd recommend getting some adjustable rear camber bolts too unless the coilovers you bought have adjustable rear top mounts . As lowering a car throws out the camber and there's no way to correct the camber with the oe rear bolts .Elbaich ones are only about £25 and yes I'd definitely get a 4 wheel alignment done afterwards , fella If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Welcome to the world of boost n burble David [emoji6] I dare say you'll get a few more waves off other scooby drivers now you have a scoop on the bonnet [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah he certainly knows his stuff . His 6 cylinder h6 twin turbo time attack classic makes over 1k hp and he also owns a uk 22b [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's down on compression I'd say valves or compression rings . either way it's at least a engine out and heads off job .so just in gaskets ,Machining costs and a timing belt kit you won't get much change from £500 . Unfortunately that's without any labour costs and statistically it's more likely to be rings . Which means a full rebuild and a £1.5k + price tag . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah passenger footwell and you won't go far wrong with Andy forrest 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Wrx ra or sti ra ? Early or late as the early classic sti ra's seem to be fetching good money atm If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊