savage bulldogs

I haven't got one for sale maybe try a local breakers or get some ported ones from Asperformance. All v1 (93) to v6 (00) classic standard exhaust manifolds are the same . Only real difference is 93 to early 96 have the lambda sensor pre upipe (in the headers) and all later models run from a lambda in the downpipe with a factory bung supplied in the hole the early lambda sensor goes . If you're reverting back to oe headers try to find a set with good heatsheilds on or wrap them before fitting

I've been warned by a couple of mates that the "show" rwyb days have mental queues and if your not careful you'll miss the actual "show" part of the day. If the queues are bad I won't bother with the quarter tomorrow and just go on a rwyb day instead .

Took 3 hrs to wash ,polish and get a coat of poor boys sealant on my front wheels [emoji15] Probably spent more time chasing the bull dog around the garden as it kept licking the rims and running off with my wax soaked micro fibre cloths . Burnt my upper arms in the sun and knackered from chasing the mutt so the rear wheels just got a rinse (mission aborted) [emoji5] Beer in the shade time now [emoji41]

I'll have a couple of clean 1 ltr bottles with me you can use to ferry water from the toilets Cos I've run out of "bug shifter" so I 'm taking 2 ltrs of tap water to rinse the dead flies off the front of the scoob I'll collect during the 2 hr drive up there .

Just thought I'd bump this in case anybody wants me to bring any bits with me tomorrow

Nice one Phil [emoji106] And where did you get those Uber sticky tyres in your avatar [emoji39]

Sorry to hear that bud ,hope it's nothing to serious and things calm down soon . I was going to aim to get there for 8 but seeing as it's a 2 hr drive and a Sunday I think we'll probably be leaving here at 630 .As for who's coming with me ,my brv is riding shotgun and a couple of mates are coming a bit later on

you could get a ticket on the gate your just have to leave your scoob off the stand ,unless someone can smuggle you a spare pass out when you arrive

If the spare scoob is a late 96 to early 98 (v3 or v4) they're very similar with probably only a difference in the size of the restrictor pill . Only problem is IF it's been mapped with the current vac line set up as it is changing it back to standard might not work unless you fit a standard v3 sti ecu . You can't fit a standard uk or wrx ecu as the turbo / injector size is different from the sti's . So by passing the posibily faulty boost controller with a new vac line might be the best thing to try first

Or sell it to me matt I'll fit it to mine [emoji4]

Did you try removing the vac line with the pink t piece in ,blocking the t piece either end and then running a new vac line between turbo and actuator? Also check all other vac lines to make sure they're not perished or split as a leak in the vac line system could cause ropey/ high idle and lack of boost white bit is normally in the standard vac line set up anyways bud but if you've got vac lines going into the car try to follow them in case it used to be attached to something (boost gauge) that's no longer there leaving a open airway into the inlet manifold (air/vacuum leak)

Maybe just get enough to top up from Halfords and order decent oil and a filter from opie for the next service

If you've got 4 nuts gambit that might explain why your a bit of a sexual deviant [emoji39] Far to much testosterone [emoji4] I've just finished leathering the car off [emoji41] disappeared into the man cave to get the resin polish ..... And now it's raining [emoji35]

Oil grades are a bit of a can of worms as loads of people have different opinions. I'd stick with what you normally use if it's not noisy when cold (to thin) or warms up to quickly (to thick causing excessive friction) Plus I'm far from a expert in oil advice and can only comment on my own experiences with my classics Imo Tim @ opie oils will give you a much better informed choice of which oil suits your car and needs

First number in oil grades is for flow The lower the number the thinner the oil is (thinner oil flows quicker) The second number is to grade the thickness at 100° Higher the number the thicker the oil is when up to 100° running temp Think most recommend 5 w 30 for newage or 10w 40 if it's a bit noisy/done a few miles 10w 40 for classics or 10w 50 if it's got a bit piston slap or been to the moon and back I used to run millers cfs 10w 40 in my standard ish uk turbo and then upped it to 10w 50 as the piston slap got worse after my remap . I currently run millers nano drive 10 w 60 but only because the race spec pistons are noisy as fook until up to temp .

Gambit do you need the stud to put on the scoob your bringing Sunday ? If not I can bring a couple of studs off the UK shell to japshow bud

Lovely clean looking import [emoji106] shame you missed the cut off point for the stand on here ,hope you get a extra stand pass sorted for japshow Sunday

I haven't owned any other turbos than tdo series or garret but I think the v3 sti came with a vf23 turbo (320 hp+) which will have ihi on it as well (maybe check on Google images) Plugging hoses you undo while test running the engine is Just a precaution as when you run a new vacumm line directly between the turbo and actuator the boost solinoid /vac line system is disconnected but it will suck crap into the system as the ecu will still be operating it The pinkish block in the middle of the black small dia vacuum lines (as stants said) looked like it was for a boost controller but if it's been mapped they're not normally used cos the mapper sets the boost targets during the remap. Most people dont like to up the boost without adjusting the fueling scale as if it runs lean it will eat itself . Hence why I asked if you were sure it had a mappable esl daughter board or simtek / alcertek hard ware inside the factory looking ecu case (standard ecus ain't remappable otherwise ) where do the vac lines to and from the pink box go ? If there's a boost controller is it working /plumbed in ?

That's definitely a v3 /v4 set up due to the type of tmic [emoji6] The vac lines between the turbo and actuator ain't standard but that doesn't mean that they're not right for your remapped ecu . Has it got a boost gauge ? Couple of things that might be worth a try to see if you can get it to make boost but don't give it full beans or run it for a long time (it's just to try to diagnose) Remove the dump valve and block the pipe it was in and the vac line that was attached to the top then take it for a test run . This will help to rule out a leaky dump valve being the cause of your lack of boost . If no different plumb it back in then try this Take note where the vac lines currently go then remove the vac line from the turbo outlet and plug the vac line you removed (so it doesn't leak) Remove the vac line from the actuator plug this also Then run a new vac line directly from actuator to turbo outlet. This will by pass the boost solinoid and vacuum system and should give you "actuated boost" about 0.5 bar Also Have a squint at the ecu to see if it's definitely been upgraded as the previous owner might have sold the mappable ecu and fitted a standard one

Delorean owners club ..... That takes me back a bit [emoji39]

Fairy muff [emoji4] I know a few I'd avoid as well [emoji6]

Why's that tidgy ? I don't know who area 52's mapper is and tbh I'd only use my current mapper (Clive attowe) or if I had to use someone new, by reputation I'd choose Andy forest or bob rawl but I've never had any personal experience with either of the last 2

I'm assuming it's a v3 but will soon know once I've seen the bay pics . Parts places and insurance companies normally get a bit confused as to what year and model jdm stuff is but the model codes tell you what it was when it left the factory ,so are normally the best way to identify a scoobs correct model . As for help, your welcome that's what we're here for fella it's just not always that easy to solve problems without actually seeing the car in the flesh and knowing what's been done to it by previous owners

I think most v3 v limiteds are the dark blue 555 colour and all have a v limited badge on the boot / front seats and a build plaque on the center console but at least we know what version it is now . So any engine parts that you need will be for a v3 with a phase 1.5 inlet set up and front entry turbo . The ecu is located under the passenger foot well carpet and will probably have a code sticker on it but if it's had a esl daughter board or simtek/alcertek conversion . you'll probably only be able to see if you remove the outer casing off the ecu and look for one of the names on the printed circuit board . When you say it won't boost does it not make boost at all or does it cut out ? Has it got a boost gauge if so what does it peak at . Does it idle ok and what colour injectors does it have . Could you chuck a couple of pics up of under the bonnet including vac lines from turbo/actuator to boost solinoid (drivers side suspension turret on a black bracket)

Did the mapper say anything about the lag or struggle to get preload pressure on the actuator ? As if you've not got a vac line or actuator issue maybe it could be the modded wrx cat less upipe bore being mismatched to the turbo and headers ,but I will admit i don't know much about catted upipes cos classics don't have em . You Could just get yourself a Harvey trick upipe and a 3 port boost solinoid mapped in anyways . as they're probably the 2 best upgrades to lessen lag and let the mapper control the boost better