savage bulldogs

I Feel your pain as it happened to me in a asdas car park earlier this month [emoji35] [emoji36] Truck was gone when I got back but it left me a nice dent in the rear quarter Hope you find the fooker fella

Glad you've sussed it Paul [emoji6] Mrb I was told that the non dccd 6 speed weighed 67 kg but I didn't weigh mine so don't know for sure . All I know is that it was a bit of a struggle to get it in situ with 2 men on our backs and the scoob on axle stands [emoji16]

Yeah , I know a little bit about early imprezas bud, but I've never worked on any other subaru and I've got a 6 speed in my 94 sti .... but it came out of a 04 plate sti [emoji4] As for the 6 speed Stub axle and split pin design it continues at least till the end of the bugeyes . As my brvs 52 plate bug 6 speed was compatible with the existing classic shafts (stub axle set up). But I had to use a stub axle conversion kit (from ipc) to change from the later 04 plate male driveshaft set up to suit my existing 94 sti (stub axle set up) [emoji6]

6 speeds are fooking heavy and quite a bit bigger . Here's a pic of my old 4 speed (I broke 3rd gear ) next to the 6 speed Sorry for the tangent paul (it happens a lot on here lol) Keep us updated as to how you get on

Almost as heavy as a 6speed then and there not fun with axle stands [emoji4] I didn't know there was a clutch set up difference between turbo and na . Is that just the foz or is it a difference across the range ? Furry dowels it is then [emoji4] Soaked in wd40 overnight and wedging a flat paint scraper blade in the gap where I could and wiggling the box worked for me [emoji6]

I've had the same issue with The dowels at 3 & 9 o clock somtimes do corrode and stick to the ally on the box (as mr b said) Also There's no mention of you removing the clutch fork shaft (as rick said) You have to remove the allen key bung near the starter motor and withdraw the shaft with a 10 mm head size bolt (cam cover bolt) to release the thrust race bearing .

You'd probably still see the same max boost but it would come in earlier in the rev range as the quicker the gas can escape the quicker it spools the turbo . Saying that I've read a few posts that say 2.5" dia exhausts don't restrict power till just under 400hp . some even say if you fit a 3" full decat for a under 300hp scoob that you actually might get a few less flb of torque when remapped but how true this is I don't know as I haven't seen any back to back dyno sheets

Dunno how to post vids but I'm sure mine is to loud for most people's preference anyways . A Decat downpipe would give quicker spool and increased volume but it will fail a mot . Sports cats imo are a happy medium as the easier breathing cat and pipework will increase spool and pass a mot . And yes stants I have got a classic sports cat in the man cave but I intended on keeping it just increase my brv inlaw stops doing mot's at his garage [emoji6]

If your going decat I'd maybe get a standard length resonated centre section 2.5" And a standard length 3" downpipe that reduces to 2.5" . If it's still not sounding right you could always buy another back box at a later date . Not all but most longer downpipe shorter cat back systems I've come across have been cheaper systems with flexi's in the downpipe, which is normally used to get over fitment issues

I not 100% sure about the wishbone fitment but if the part numbers for the ally wishbone bushes on classic and bugeye are the same then in "theory" they should fit . If you do buy any ally arms make sure the seller includes the "cones" which are sleves that sit on top of the balljoints to stop them wearing the taper in the ally wishbones they sit in . I'm running a bump steer kit on my classic and had to make sure it was suitable for my ally arms so check the balljoint part numbers too bud I sold my last set of classic ally arms with cones for £40 but they only had standard bushes in

I read that classic and bugeye share more parts than classic and blobeye upwards but hey I don't believe everything I read on the net I'm fairly sure that anti lift kits are sold for either newage or classic fitment and they bolt to the wishbones . Ally one's are lighter and don't rust but bear in mind you'd have to change the front droplinks to suit ally wishbones as well . Personally I'd leave the steal ones in situ unless yours are showing signs of excessive rust or your replacing/upgrading some bushes in that area

I clayed and sealed it in November then it only gets a jet wash and a bucket of wash n wax every fortnight till spring . Still trying to find the courage to brave the cold to change the oil n filter . We've had no snow here [emoji19] just sharp frosts and 4° temps all day Are the justys transverse engined ? (Engine and gearbox in the bay) Or longitudinal like scoobs n beemers ? I can't tell from the pic . I did think about building a sleeper turbo brat pick up with impreza mechanicals . I'd swop the work combo van for one of those any day[emoji41]

Got a soaking today trying to jet wash the salt off from the underside of the scoob and under the arches [emoji53] However it Does look like the paintwork I did in the arches last summer as held up well [emoji41] then Chucked a sponge at it and the clay , polish , wax and paint sealer (pre winter prep) seems to be keeping it at least looking shiny from a distance [emoji4]

Yes mate still got the sti tmic I have sold a few bit's and cleared some space [emoji2] But then checked some boxes and found some more stuff [emoji53] So I'll update the first post a bit later [emoji6]

I wouldn't have thought it would've made that much difference but in theory the colder air is denser. so if your running with a maf or intake temp sensor it would tell the ecu to add more fuel to equalise the mixture . I like colder denser air cos it also makes more ponies [emoji41]

Have a look on abw's website they do replica splitters , arch extensions , body kits ect . I bought my p1 splitter from Darren @ abw very impressed with the fitment and quality .

Depends on budget and how loud you want it tbh . I run a cusco decat downpipe and 3" zigen cat back with a resonated centre which has a nice throb on tick over but over 3k rpm it gets fooking loud n raspy

Think its a genome sti back box . Which I think is standard on later classic sti's

Maybe try running it through a subaru main dealer parts site or "importcarparts" website . All the best clive

Well I can tell you it's not off a classic turbo ,which is not much use I know as I've completely stripped and rebuilt the engine, drivetrain and bodywork a few classics . This is the classic upipe to block bracket with 3 holes but it's a completely different shape . can I see part numbers on it ? If so maybe give em a google sorry I can't be of any help but I've never worked on a n/a scooby , best of luck bud

Possibly a turbo / upipe bracket that bolts them to the block , hopefully one of the legacy fellas will know for sure . As it might be off the legacy's twin turbo set up

No problem bud [emoji106] Does depend a bit on what model you've got turbo 2000 ,wrx, sti ect (cams and turbos differ) and what mods it's got already . It should have grey 380cc injectors and phase 1 inlet with slanted tmic as standard You'd need Remappable ecu 440cc yellow injectors . Decat/ sports cat . Maybe a tmic /fmic upgrade Pannel filter /induction kit . And then a Remap it might have a tdo5 turbo as standard which are good for your target power anyways[emoji6] if not it will be a tdo4 good for sub 300hp but quicker spool .

Hi and welcome to soc fella Looks like a nice clean one so good base to start from , what model is it ? I'm not personally keen on the body kit either but I do like a oe look with just a splitter. Power wise 330hp is about right for classic standard internals , brakes and drivetrain . Expect to pay at least £3k just in parts to make a classic break the 400hp barrier . 330hp in a lightweight classic ain't no slouch anyways [emoji6]

Knocking bottom ends do tend to get louder under load and (unless caught very early) don't go away when up to temp . Have you checked it's not a pin hole/ minor blow in the exhaust system ? As my slip jointed headers tend to "tick" a bit until they're warm and expand to close the gap . What oil grade/make are you using atm ? As minor piston slap / hydraulic lifter noise can be improved by using a quality oil of the right grade (as gambit said ) But just chucking oil thats to thick will just increase wear (as ash said)

It's a big chunk of money getting a mappable ecu and a remap but not only does it pull cleaner and faster for once you actually know it's doing it safely [emoji6] Good luck with the results rick only 6 more sleeps [emoji5]