savage bulldogs

Top or front entry tdo5 bud ?

The main difference between classic boxes is the ratio's just Google your gearbox ty number to find it's ratio and buy a 5 speed with the same ratio . If you get a 96 onward box you'll have to use your original mechanical speedo sensor and mabey the black and white plugged bit of loom . As later boxes use a electronic speedo sensor but if it's the right ratio classic box it matches up with the diff and will fit all drive/prop shafts , linkage clutch ect of your existing set up .

I checked the plug gaps when I had the engine out and they were still at the 0.7 I'd set them at 4kmls ago . spoke to my brv and he'd had the same issue with his old engine as hit 320 hp @ 1.2 bar then it blew the spark out . He re gapped his plugs to 0.5 and then saw 347hp without any problems but the mapper said 0.5 gap is too close and hints at the 20yr old classic coilpacks being the issue . newage one's have a stronger spark so would be the best solution . didn't have this issue before the reshell as my old v3 uk ran the single centre mounted coilpack rather than the sti spec coilpack on each plug .

Glad it was a easy fix fella and that grin is back on your face :-)

Gaulson you can get 300 with the standard cat in place or maybe look for a sports cat for a compromise . had mine remapped today but misfire held it back :-( It still made 330 hp 310flb @ 1.2 bar which was more than enough to see off the celica cup that was trying his luck on the way home. So i guess ..... next up newage coil packs and a bigger maff ;-)

That depends on what's your target power , budget and your preferred mappers software . you'll probably be better off emailing the likes of "jolly green monster" simon roe or any other respectable mapper and they'll point you in the right direction for your needs As there's pro's and cons with most ecu's and I've only had esl and apexi myself but would have a alcertek if budget would allow

if it would have been a straight transplant it would have took half the time but hey wheres the fun in that ;) still needs mapping and a few cosmetic bits (including a clay and polish) but i chucked a sponge at it and the mrs gave it a clean inside so heres a few pics anyways going to swap bonnets as the sti,s one looks like its been shot with a musket and no pics of the other side , cos its still got odd door handles lol . fingers crossed i wont find any teething problems with the conversion on the dyno Wednesday as i havent used any more than 0.5 bar of boost due to not being mapped yet but otherwise so far im quite chuffed :)

Yeah the one with the vacuum pipes attached bud

I Clean boost solenoids by removing the pipes spraying contact cleaner in the ports and plug the diagnostic plugs together under the dash (makes all relays and solenoids click) to work the cleaner in . You could try bypassing the boost solenoid by running a vac pipe from turbo outlet to actuator , which should give you "actuated" boost (0.5 bar) if actuator isn't faulty

Here's a few rough costs and options , all based on Second hand ecu's esl £220, apexi £350, simtek £400, alcertek £600 and syvecs wouldn't give you much change from a grand . Some ecu's would require a install, plus Mapping ( cost varies but about ) £250 + dyno .

Let the wife drive the scoob back from asdas as she hasn't drove it since the reshell .... Should have told her about the extra noises dump valve , chatter and pops n bangs on over run [emoji23] The look on her face was quality [emoji33] [emoji19] I told her to take it easy until it's been remapped but apparently the bloke in the beemer behind us needed to be "shown" [emoji1]

The 75 ecu and the vf24 is correct for a v4 sti. the ecu can't be mapped without a esl daughter board fitted (about £550 fitted and mapped)Unfortunately I sold my 3 plug esl ecu last week (£220) .

I used to get a similar thing on my classic , it only did it when I reversed off the drive in the morning . Turned out to be worn front droplinks As when I upgraded to polly bushed ally ones I never heard it again .

Seeing as it happened after you removed the tmic have you checked the y pipe , turbo intake to maf and all vacuum for splits/ leaks . Cos any leak between the maf and map sensors might throw a maff or map code, due to the discrepancies between the measured air at the maf and what pressure is actually in the inlet manifold.

Thanks for that jay [emoji106] At least I now know why I get chatter even though I now have a dump valve fitted . Because I only used 0.5 bar and then backed off the throttle (due to it needing a remap) As far as I'm aware blanking off the dump valve causes strain on the turbo due to the abrupt stall caused by the drop in exhaust gasses when you let of the throttle . most people say that the journal td series turbos handle it better than the roller bearing vf series turbo's. As td's rely on oil to reduce friction on a single shaft rather than roller bearings in a casing . If my home made fmic pipework with a dump valve take off can't handle high boost on the dyno Wednesday[emoji120] I'll be fitting a better shape blank piece of pipe (instead of the bit with the dump valve take off) and going valve less and I'll let you know the outcome Wednesday evening[emoji6]

Yeah I've got a uk ratio 6 speed gearbox and all parts to fit it into any classic or newage with a r160 hub set up . It's £1500 +pp but they're good for almost double the hp of a classic 5 speed [emoji6]

Nice clean looking preface wagon you've got there [emoji106]

Took it for it's mot [emoji16] Passed with ease [emoji3] Did get a few new noises on the way back from the mot station [emoji15] 1 of them is because I modded fmic pipework so had to fit a dump valve which isn't too loud but gives of quite loud "chatter " It needs a remap as it's over fueling due to the bigger injectors but that coupled with the over run "pops n bangs" that were originally mapped in for my brv [emoji48] made it a interesting maiden voyage [emoji5]

As it's not been driven anywhere I'd like to make sure I haven't got any boost leaks as I've made the fmic pipework out of the old stuff and a 90° silicone hose. Plus I'd like to see if there's any teething problems with the phase , inlet and vacuum conversions before I book any dyno time but as soon after Wednesday as possible[emoji4] As for the turbo blanket I might re fit it as it did bring intake temps down a bit but the spring clips used to "zing" a bit and it will be getting cold soon [emoji5]

Payment received, thanks adam [emoji106] I'll pm you the parcel details when I drop it off at the couriers the weekend , bud turbo back de cat ,full pink box clutch kit and flywheel sold

It's been a bit of a manic week mate but I hey had a week away from plastering and played scooby all week from 8 till 4 every day [emoji41] It's still got odd door handles and I've got a few bit's I still want to swop over from the v3 shell But it's roadworthy ,insured and booked in for mot Wednesday afternoon [emoji6]

Rocker covers do tend to drip on the headers when they leak [emoji6] you could check the turbo oil drain pipe for splits or blockage as thats another likely culprit (if its drivers side) If it is the rockers and they get replaced make sure you use genuine subaru gaskets and half moons

Well Friday's been n gone and it's still not quite finished [emoji55] Still got to ... Fit the rcm fuel pump and fit back seats Blead the brakes fit side skirts/!Removed! guard's had a mission setting up the alternator as the "yeah they fit fine mate " brackets I bought [emoji19] didn't give enough clearance to the throttle body linkage for my liking . I had to remove one of the alternator "legs" ,modify the alternator connections, use and modify a v3 throttle body/cable and splice a v3 tps into the v1 loom . just as well that I like a challenge [emoji15] A few more pics of what I've been up to anyways Mock fit of the alternator re routed fmic pipework and location/pipe work mock up for catch can Fmic plumbed in and Engine up n running Front end back on Brakes ,suspension rear bumper fitted

I used new subaru rollers/hydraulic tensioner and the gates kevlar timing belt which is pre marked with cam and crank positions . Set it up with the marks spot on after a few rotations marks on the belt moved way out but the pulleys were still within half a tooth [emoji15] I assumed that was to do with the lay out of the rollers, water pump and tensioner mabey using more teeth between either left and right bank and the crank [emoji6] Recently had the cam covers off to check over the engine while it was out and pulley marks are still that half a tooth out on the drivers side belt marks were miles out . I agree with mr b It's good practice mark the old belt before removal in case of discrepancies on assembly or part supplied and rotate the engine a few more times . To make sure the pulley marks stay within half a tooth

Had the same happen when I fitted my belt I've done 5 k miles without any issues [emoji6]