savage bulldogs

I have a 2011 caddy workhorse with the 1.6 tdi lump , it does pull well with the torquey derv lump . If economy is a concern then I'd steer clear of almost anything subaru lol . But I dare say the 160hp na would get off the line and up to 60 probably quicker than the derv (definitely in the wet) . But it would feel much slower when rolling , so maybe try a test drive in the na scooby (or save up for a turbo scooby) before handing over your hard earnt 😉

Good stuff , nice to see you're getting stuck in and making the most of having the front end off . Think a lot of people would be surprised at the amount of rust they'd find around the lower cross member and under the rad 😏 Looks like you've sorted most of the rust to future proof it a bit now though , chap 👍

I'd have thought you'd have had a ECU code stored if it's been playing up that much tbh . The newage coilpack conversion is certainly worth while imo . But before you start throwing parts and money at it ,I'd suggest to try cleaning the maf and double checking the ECU codes and reset the ECU (using the sticky link on here). Might be worth removing the spark plugs to see if the colour of the plugs is any different on a particular cylinder, this might point you in the direction of which cylinder is misfiring.

Think the likes of supertec and Brian crower do aftermarket upgraded lifters , think supertec even do a under bucket shim conversion. Fairly sure they wont be cheap though . Think oe ones are about £30 each but you could always get a engineer to "tip" the valves , if it's just for setting valve clearances Main places worth a try are Import car parts ,As performance , ,lateral performance and advanced automotive

Might be interested in a few of them , if you have cam locking tools , pulley removal tools ,crank seal /cam seal fitting tools ect . But as said above a list and price would help a potential sale

Have you done a self ECU code check? If not here's a link ... As stu said its probably a coilpack or dirty maf , how much of a service did you give it when you put it back on the road ? Hopefully the ECU will have a stored code but if not has it got any modifications and has it been mapped

Hi tom , they look like standard classic coilpacks from the pic . If you're gonna stick with 2nd hand classic coilpacks, just make sure the insulation around where they connect to the spark plug isn't cracked and the wires or "pigtails" haven't got any cracks,splits in too .

Not really much of a update tbh but I decided to go the whole hog and a brand new set of cam cap bolts and valve stem seals turned up from luke at icp . So hopefully once my engineer has found the time to cut the valves ,pressure check and skim the heads . I'll be able to crack on 😊

It's a bit of a difficult one , imo it would be classed as a import, as the country it was first regersterd in wasn't mainland uk . But its quite possible it's a uk or euro spec car , rather than a jdm import. Unfortunately I don't know much about importing documents , and could only tell you what the car was when it left the factory. via the vin number either put through a decoder or googling the vin number .

Does sound like it was bought in Malta a d brought over to the uk shortly afterwards, a lot of serviceman do this (maybe they're cheaper over there) Afaik Malta versions are UK or euro spec but you when you asked if it was a import did you want to know if it's a jdm spec ? I can check exactly what spec it was if you post the gc8 #### number off the silver plaque on the passenger side front suspension turret 😉

Your welcome 👍 Pull the fuel pump fuse ,De pressurise the fuel system at the under bonnet fuel filter ,take lots of pics as you take it apart and wipe a little engine oil on the o rings prior to fitting them 😉 Best of luck with it bud

No problem, bud . There's not much difference between in the ej207 jdm or uk engines in a v7sti (01 to 52 plate ) unless you're talking about the spec c . So the uk ,euro ,aus sti's are probably very similar for your year ej207 too . I rebuilt my v7sti type UK ej207 engine a few years ago and I did a build thread in the tech section on here .Although I didn't remove the injectors from the manifold or rails there's a few pics that might help you familiarise yourself with the 207 layout. I might be able to dig out some pics of the laptop at some point , but it's a old windows 7 one that takes ages to fire up lol .

Fuel leaking in a bay is obviously dangerous, so if you think it's a bit beyond your skill set I'd suggest to get a trusted mechanic to look at it It could just be a split fuel pipe or injector o ring . Only real way to diagnose would be to either replace everything in that area or strip out some stuff, to allow you to see exactly where the leak is coming from. You probably should be able to strip or move some stuff and just turn the key to the first stage when the fuel pump primes the fuel system (don't start it) . Then hopefully you might see where it's coming from, without having the engine running.

I dont know much about the vf30 or what type of core it has ? . Afaik the vf35 has a journal core and bearing core turbos require less oil pressure. The way subaru adjust turbo oil pressure is through different size holes in the banjo bolt on the turbo oil feed . Do you know if the vf35 was fitted with your cars original banjo bolt or was there a banjo bolt supplied with the vf35 ? If your going to refit the old turbo make sure you use the original banjo bolt and buy new turbo outlet , up pipe to turbo and downpipe to center section gaskets.as even if they were new when fitting the vf35 , they're a "crush type" so don't seal well second time around 😉 The likes of import car parts will sell genuine subaru gaskets ,as cheap copies dont seal for long (if at all)

Its probably a intermittent fault but the ECU will probably have stored the code . What model / year is it ? As most pre 2000 cars have a self ECU code check function

Sorry I didn't notice that you said it was a sports wagon, unfortunately theres not much gains to be had when remapping the non turbos . At least not a lot of gain for the cost of the remap , only roughly 10hp . So most tend to concentrate on handling lightening and braking mods to make the most of the boxer layout and awd system. On a plus side ,those are some nice healthy graphs for a na engine 👍

To be honest mate I'm not really sure as the newest Subaru I've owned is a 52 plate bug sti . That was re mapped with ecutek software and I didn't see where the mapper plugged into. What country, county are you based in ? Maybe someone might be able to recommend a tried and tested Subaru mapper In your area, that will have the correct software to fully live re map your scooby . As although a lot of people in the states do get Cobb stage tunes in the uk most steer clear of generic flash tune maps and prefer to get a full live remap bespoke to their car /modifications

Think jdm solutions Suffolk on f.b have 2 WRX's in for breaking atm , otherwise import car parts will probably be able to get a new subaru one for you

Think the 07 would require the mapper to use ecutek software (licenced) ,Rom raider software (open sourced) or if in the U.S a Cobb acesses port . To allow them to make changes to the factory ecu parameters. I'd suggest to stay away from odb "flash maps" as they're very generic and have a bespoke live full map done (instead of a staged flash tune )

I made a start on the exhaust valve side today and I'm not happy with the amount of contact area on the valve seal . So if I'm going to get the right hand exhaust valves re cut ... I might as well get them all recut . In which case the lapping in of the 4 x R.H inlet valves , was a bit pointless but at least I didn't do many out of the 16 valves before I noticed that some would need a re cut .😏 Also found out my preferred earlier style cam covers with "twin cam 16v" wont seal around the v3/v4 head spark plug channel . So I'm gonna drop the v3/v4 cam covers off at the powdercoaters instead ,probably along with a few other bits as well 😉

Gutted the original builders seem to have washed their hands of any liability, hopefully the garage you bought it off will help with the cost . After all you only did just under 1k miles before you noticed it was fubared . Best of luck ,bud

Doesn't look as bad as some I've seen, on my old v3uk the rear strutt tops and bumper mounts had almost completely disappeared 😥 Pull the boot linings out and check the rear arch "wheel wells" and seams around the rear strutt tops , if you haven't already done so stu .

No problem bud , I'm always happy to recommend companies that take the time to talk to their customers and give good customer service/product advice 👍

Good stuff , always nice to see one being saved 😎

Think your better off sticking with standard size discs and just buy a better quality brand if you want to upgrade the stopping power on the same sized caliper. As far as I remember standard 4 pot subaru fronts are 296mm standard brembo fronts are 330mm . Theres a lot of differences on the rears ,at least 4 types fitted to classics alone . Glad Alyn could help , he's one of the few aftermarket part suppliers that will take the time to run you through options. As most just want to sell you the most expensive and overkill type of parts , no matter what you use the car for or what sort of budget you have . Alyn would know what size any impreza has too 😉