savage bulldogs

Tbh I do like Gary's rs , it's the closest evo to a classic ra that they made ,with windy windows, no abs or electrical witchcraft. Just a lightweight evo drivers car with a mapped 365hp . So I dare say it would be a close match between his and mine , well apart from top end .... as he has a short ratio jdm 5 speed and mines got a uk 6 speed 😊

I'd imagine that the smoke is black (unburnt fuel ) as with a decat and induction kit fitted, the engine will be able to breathe easily and the lack of restrictions in the intake /exhaust will mean the turbo will spin eaiser . So the ECU will try to stop it running lean and add more fuel . I'd definitely try to keep it off boost until the mods are mapped in ,as the ECU will only adjust minor changes to the map by itself. As for ecus steer clear of simtek/acltek as although they're relatively cheap for the functions they have , the aftersales and tech support seems to be almost non existent atm . Esl daughter boards are another cheap option but they're open sourced software and some mappers don't like using unlicensed software (my mapper included) . I personally run apexi f.c (old tech) but I like the hand controller monitoring functions and it works . The link g4 seems like a good bit of kit and for the v1/V2 it's only about £830 brand new , it also comes with the software and lead . As jay said I use Clive attowe tuning in Norwich and rate him and his 30+ years experience very highly. I think yours is a v2 ? If you have grey 380cc injectors, I'd suggest to get some yellow 440cc phase 2 injectors and phase adapters .As the 380cc will max out at 290hp ish and yellow 440cc are good for 340hp ish . Also get a v3 onward map sensor ,as the v1/V2 only reads up to 1.2 bar and the v3 onwards reads to 1.7 bar . The map sensor will have to be fitted at the mappers (needs to be calibrated to work) the injectors (if needed) can be fitted before mapping day but it will over fuel a lot so don't drive it to far/often once fitted

The charcoal canister is part of the fuel evaporator system , which filters the fuel vapour from the tank and injecting system. Then sends it back into the inlet to be burnt off , for cleaner emissions. I removed mine completely about 5yrs ago and haven't had any issues but it is on a my 94 . I did have to block the tank vapour line and any vac line "take offs " for the evaporator system . unfortunately I couldn't say if you could just delete the system on a later scooby , as I know they tend to flash up codes eaiser than the classics and it might need to be mapped out . If now one on here knows for sure , you could try contacting a mapper to see if it would need to be mapped out on your model 😉

Can't remember the last time I saw a running type r for under £8k , so with the £2k dccd 6 speed I'd thought it would be well worth that . Let alone with a engine upgrade, too

Gutted for you nick 😏 I'd love a white type r , something about a white classic that really floats my goat 😎 Think seeing as shoddy type r's are fetching £9k someone is gonna be very happy with yours , especially already having a dccd 6 speed and stronger engine . Best of luck with getting back on your feet financially and with the sale ,bud

I took it to a local retro car meet last week and a photographer took a pic of me leaving with my mates evo behind us , so thought I might as well post it on here too 😊

Cheers terzo . There's loads of aftermarket options for exhausts and headers , just bear in mind if you fit equal length headers you'll loose the epic scooby burble. Also if you fit a decat downpipe it will effect emissions come mot time . I do like a nice clean bay , looks good and makes it much easier to spot and leaks early on. Only issue is that it's a very slippery slope , cos soon as you fit one shiny bit ..... it looks good 😎 but it makes everything else look shoddy lol . I built the engine over 8 yrs and 55k miles ago and although it doesn't leak and I keep it clean , the actual heads and block could do with a lick of paint again. As since fitting the freshly powder coated inlet ,it shows everything else up 🙄

Cheers chap , hopefully I'll be able to find a suitable sized belt and get it back together during the evenings this week . As I'd like to get it up to Clive attowes fairly soon and get the "Taiwanese tornado turbine" tweeked in and see how it performs when set up properly 😋

Well after a bit of fettling it might work, gonna have to still use one of the tensioners I made originally and even then , that depends upon if I can find a belt that will fit 🙄 But it looks better than the brackets I made and hopefully the tensioner I did remove, was the thing that was screeching on first start up 🤞 If not back to the original set up and a bucket load of wd40 😋

Sunny bank holiday in Suffolk 😎 So I decided to get up early and fit the cdf alternator relocation kit, before it got too hot . Nothing wrong with the cdf kit but it doesn't fit my Frankenstein phase 1 inlet manifold 😏 As I'm running a phase 1.5 v3/v4 throttle body and it makes the alternator foul on the throttle linkage 🙄 Guessing I'll be cleaning and greasing the old alternator (to hopefully stop it squealing on start up) and refitting it with the relocation kit I made lol Shame as the cdf kit would've matched the billet cdf rails sweetly and I'm now getting a crispy redneck in the sun 😋

Welcome back Pete , lovely looking scooby chap 👍 Think killer wax does a "blue dream" wax which is made for blue cars , have a look on the "clay cloth company " website or f.b page 😉

There is a company that sells a polished ally resonator delete for the v1/V2 phase 1 Impreza's. As I do have one that was fitted to my v1sti but unfortunately I like to keep (hoard) scooby scraps. So won't be selling it and it doesn't have any manufacturers markings on it either. .So I can't tell you who makes them but at least you know that someone makes them other than just apexi , so you might be able to widen your search . Here's a pic of it fitted on my old set up

Went to the local retro car meet again , I only took a few pics of mine and my mate Garry's evo but a local photographer took this as we left 😎

Nice choice 👍 My brv had a 135i m sport ,8 speed flappy paddle with over 300hp to the rear wheels as standard (what's not to like) . Admittedly ,Hes now got a 535d x drive , so he can go to the shops in the rain or snow without worrying about ending up in a ditch 😉

Here you go chap ,Just took this screenshot off his f.b page with his contact details on 👍

I'd suggest to give Alyn at Asperformance a bell , his knowledge regarding aftermarket and track impreza parts is second to none . He's bound to have something you could use , just don't have a look on his website and think he can't help . As tbh his website is pretty rubbish compared to his helpfulness over the phone and it doesn't list half his stock 😉

Always nice to see a scooby on track 😎 I wouldn't worry about not telling us what other marques of motors you have well...... unless its a vtec Honda, then I'd just keep quiet about that 🤔😂😂 I just sold one of my scoobies and bought a audi to go alongside my vw caddy workhorse..... they haven't banned me yet .

As for what have I done to my Subaru today? Washed it twice 🤬 Washed it , took it out to stretch her legs , dump valve literally scared the crap outta a seagull...... and it shat all over the front of my clean car , so had to wash it again 🙄 Poxy flying bin chickens 🙄😂😂

Only ever had 1 car with a paddle clutch, I didn't like the feel for a road car and binned it . So can't say if the rivets being loose is a issue tbh jay 🤔

Seeing as it didn't do it before the new rad was fitted , I'd suggest checking for a airlock . Personally I've never had any issues with refilling the coolant system and getting a airlock afterwards but I've seen a lot of posts about airlock problems and one was from a main dealer getting a coolant airlock . When up to temp (fans cut in ) Does the heater blow hot air and are all the coolant pipes getting hot once the thermostat has opened? Ie top bottom hoses and heater matrix flow and return (at the bulkhead )

Did you connect a code reader ? Don't know much about sport spec tbh but if it's a classic most code readers don't work but they do have a built in "ecu self code check" function on the classic turbo models . If it is a classic and you didn't use the self check function, there's a sticky thread in the tech section on here, that explains how too read classic ECU codes and it might be worth a try

Happy dayz, I'm rather partial to a bit of fettling myself lol . At least you've got plenty of time to get it how you want it .. ... although I'm sure that will change from plan A , along the way 😋

Oh those old valves look a bit banana like 😏 No probs, hopefully you'll be back with burble n boost in your life soon 😎

No probs bud ,hope it's a cheap fix fella . I find autoglym machine cleaner is fairly good ,as its water based . Just don't get too much cleaner in the direction of the cambelt cover or alternator. I recently had a oil leak on my caddy workhorse but I don't normally work on the van tbh so its bay is filthy . So I got the engine steam cleaned ,by the local "wash yer car boss" for a tenner , which might be easier than doing it yourself 😉

Learning about scoobies, their spec and terminology is like learning a new language lol . The only real way to tell what it was when it left the factory is to google the "model code" on the plaque under the bonnet. As above if it's a 51 plate it should be a bug eye as the blob eye came out in 03 . Afaik they didn't make a wide track until blobeye (possibly 04 onwards and into hawkeye) . Hopefully @Tidgy will spot this ,as his newage spec knowledge is far better than mine . Saying that a previous owner could have swapped the front end ,as a mate had a 02 bug with a hawk front end .They could've also fitted the parts to make it a wide track conversion too . Generally jdm spec is normally slightly better and if it's not seen to many salty winters in the uk , they're generally cleaner underneath too . So look for the "model code" and give it a google , then post up what it is and a pic of your scoob ,then hopefully we'll be able to help a bit more , bud . Although with a smaller offset wheel ,you would probably be able to tuck the tyres under standard arches .It would defeat the point of a widetrack conversion. So here's a pic of the rear end of a standard widetrack ,to show the visual cosmetic difference due to the rear arch "trim"