savage bulldogs

I'd definitely start with a compression test (warm ideally) but as long as the figures are above 140 ish and all within 15% of each other , they're within factory spec afaik for a early classic. If it was limp mode or a timing issue I'd have thought you'd have a code but if its modded and "chipped " instead of mapped ?. I don't know if it would store a code or whether it's just a sensor reading something out of the maps parameters (then cutting ignition) . If test comes back good ... Does it rev freely in neutral or at cruise (part throttle) . You've definitely plugged the coilpacks and injectors the right way round on both banks ? Fairly sure its light grey plugs to both side of each bank are for the rear cylinders for injectors and coilpacks .

Soz bud , people call em different things. The hydraulic lifter cap that has a shim attached underneath , cam lashes onto it to push the valve . The shims are non removable on most ej's ,so you have to buy a complete lash cap /lifter to get the correct size shim , to adjust valve clearances

Was that with the cams at base circle ? Cam lobe should be facing upwards and away from each lash cap so there should be no pressure on each lash cap (have to rotate the cam to check each one)

If engines still plumbed in , just do a compression check. It should let you know if the valves are seating correctly. 2 main options for clearance adjustment. Measure the clearances with feelers gauge and buy lash caps that are the correct size (about £30 per lash cap) I always get the engineer to "tip the valves" ,to take the same amount of material from the tip of the valve , as what he takes off the valve seat when machining the valve seat faces

There's supposed to clearance for the hydraulic valves , compression readings would probably give you a idea if a valve has positive pressure at cam base circle . Causing a Valve to be jacked open with constant pressure from the cam . If compression is down , it's very difficult to test valve clearance with the engine in stitu . So just checking that you can turn the lash caps with your fingers (when the cams at base circle) is a easy way to see if the cams are creating constant pressure on a lash cap (causing the valve to stay open)

Your supposed to check compression with the throttle "jacked open " ,although those figures seem good have you checked compression since doing the headgaskets? If the timing Mark's are out it could cause it to cut ignition at high rpm/load , due to crank n cam sensor readings. Are the plugs the right heat type (heat 6 for standard,heat 7 for mapped) are gapped correctly ? Have you done a self code check or just think theres no codes due to not having a eml ? Maybe a code check and ECU reset might help ,along with checking vac lines from inlet ,turbo and fuel pressure regulator too

Is it definitely firing on all cylinders, plugs all same colour ,none of the plugs flooded? Sounds like a misfire , I wired the coilpacks back to front on 1 bank b4 🤐 Had the same symptoms, surprised it run on 2 cylinders at all tbh 🙄. Try checking engine loom earths /breaks in the insulation on the loom and injector/coilpack plugs .failing that a compression test and check the timing Mark's

I dont know anything about the new supra's spec but I do know if it's full of electrical witchcraft, its probably not for me . I do appreciate good engineering though ,I just prefer my cars raw and like to drive them myself . Probably why I tend to prefer most things retro petrol 😊

@Jay762 definitely agree on the supra , such lovely cars when either left alone or modded right . A mate has one with a veilside kit on it and it looks sweet as but the one in my pics is far too "max power" for my taste . As for the new supra ,it looks like a melted Hyundai imo 🤢😥

Good stuff , always nice to see a classic being brought back to life 👍 Now get ya name down on the s.o.c japshow finale stand at the end of the month to show her off 😉

Busy weekend for the scooby 😊 Took it to a local retro car meet on friday evening and a local jap car meet this morning. Unfortunately only took 1 pic of mine and my mates evo ,as we were too busy walking around and chatting 🙄 So here's a few pics I shamelessly screenshoted off the f.b page 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c . Feel free to add some pics of your 22b , there was another 22b owner on here ,that did a complete refresh a few months back . I dare say there's some 22b only meets but being so rare, I would've thought you'd be lucky to find a 22b only meet locally . We do have a few club stands throughout the year at major shows and I think japshow finale @ Santa pod is the next one, at the end of this month . Feel free to join us on the stand ,would be lovely to have a 22b on there 😎

Sure is a lovely collection of scoobies , dare say the Mc Rae and the press car are gonna be worth a few quid in a few years . I'd love a few off the list myself but I like to "improve " motors and struggle to keep them standard enough to be a investment 🙄 Pm'd @Jamina PM'd @ETAYLOR247

Bought another alternator from a friend, after redrilling the mounting holes and making slightly smaller spacers for under the alternator relocation bracket...... finally a non screechy start up 😊. Also booked it in at Clive attowes next friday , so hopefully we'll find out if the arashi billet tdo5 20g will actually make any power 🤞 Attowe has suggested for me to fit a slightly weaker spring combination than the current 1.2 bar one .As although you'd think a stronger spring would help it hold the waste gate shut and make boost control eaiser 🤔 But it might actually mean the boost control solenoid duty has to be turned up really high , in order to operate the actuator diaphragm smoothly 😉

Think last count he had over 30 cars , majority of which are Impreza's 😎 So there's quite a few not for sale (track and newage scoobies ) but he's definitely got a addiction lol . Think it's only due to his storage costs going up so he has to empty one of his workshops lol .

@Neil looks like you've got your work "cut out " for you there bud , I ended up scrapping my 1st v3 UK turbo due to tin worm 😏 It looked minor rust from the small 10p sized bubble in the paintwork on one arch but inner arches ,sills ,bumper mounts and strutt tops were non existent 🙄 Check the strutt tops while its stripped, as I didn't realise how bad mine was until i removed the boot liners . Good luck with it chap

Think the v5 ECU can be mapped via ecutek software, if so that's probably your cheapest option. Dunno how far north you are but I use Clive attowe in Norwich

Only ever had a h&s up pipe but from what I've seen and read they're good quality. I've had a few systems on mine but have settled on the current cobra 3 " trackday friendly cat back . As the grouppe headers and cusco downpipe made it far too loud with a non resonated system.

Here's a screenshot of what he's looking to sell from his collection, let me know if anything catches your eye and I'll get in touch with him and find out if he's still got it

Relatively standard ones do come up but not that often . If they've been in the uk for a few years obviously rust can become a issue but hence why I shared Nick's one as it's only been over here for a couple of years . Is it going to be a investment, weekend toy, something to play with (mod) or daily driver? As I know someone selling a few of his rare scoobs and would see if he has anything to fit your bill

Attowe will be able to delimit it via mapping and if you go with a aftermarket ecu it won't have a limit on it anyways 😉 if you get yellow phase 2 440cc's make sure you get some new "phase adapters " to make them fit into your earlier phase 1 fuel rails . As for having a endless mod list .... Mine started quite short but by the time I'd crossed 2 things off the top of the list 😎 I'd added 4 things to the bottom of the list lol and 8yrs later theres only the front n rear bumpers ,bootlid ,1 door and the driver's side kick panel left from my original scooby 🤐🙄😂😂

Seeing as you've posted in this section, I assume you've already seen it but there is a member selling a type r with 68k with a uprated engine and hawk dccd 6 speed . I know it's not standard but the 6 speed and later engine are probably worth £4k in parts alone . So here's a link and good luck with the search

Sorry @DaveRAC dont think I mentioned that it's just the sunday for me 😉

Tbh I do like Gary's rs , it's the closest evo to a classic ra that they made ,with windy windows, no abs or electrical witchcraft. Just a lightweight evo drivers car with a mapped 365hp . So I dare say it would be a close match between his and mine , well apart from top end .... as he has a short ratio jdm 5 speed and mines got a uk 6 speed 😊

I'd imagine that the smoke is black (unburnt fuel ) as with a decat and induction kit fitted, the engine will be able to breathe easily and the lack of restrictions in the intake /exhaust will mean the turbo will spin eaiser . So the ECU will try to stop it running lean and add more fuel . I'd definitely try to keep it off boost until the mods are mapped in ,as the ECU will only adjust minor changes to the map by itself. As for ecus steer clear of simtek/acltek as although they're relatively cheap for the functions they have , the aftersales and tech support seems to be almost non existent atm . Esl daughter boards are another cheap option but they're open sourced software and some mappers don't like using unlicensed software (my mapper included) . I personally run apexi f.c (old tech) but I like the hand controller monitoring functions and it works . The link g4 seems like a good bit of kit and for the v1/V2 it's only about £830 brand new , it also comes with the software and lead . As jay said I use Clive attowe tuning in Norwich and rate him and his 30+ years experience very highly. I think yours is a v2 ? If you have grey 380cc injectors, I'd suggest to get some yellow 440cc phase 2 injectors and phase adapters .As the 380cc will max out at 290hp ish and yellow 440cc are good for 340hp ish . Also get a v3 onward map sensor ,as the v1/V2 only reads up to 1.2 bar and the v3 onwards reads to 1.7 bar . The map sensor will have to be fitted at the mappers (needs to be calibrated to work) the injectors (if needed) can be fitted before mapping day but it will over fuel a lot so don't drive it to far/often once fitted