savage bulldogs

Had a look at a few pics on my phone and yes my old v3 icv had 4 bolt holes but only 3 bolts 👍 Not knowing if the internals are different, from a visual look the only difference between the phase 1 (v1/v2) and a phase 1.5 (v3/v4) is the label colour and the air return to intake pipe take off . I'm definitely running a v3/v4 icv (it's the one of my v3uk) . I used this as the upward intake "take off" made the icv pipework route for my custom inlet manifold eaiser 😉. Blue inlet was my v3uk and shows 4 holes but 3 bolts . Pic of the voltage checks , ECU pins will be different but voltage at the icv might be the same

Mine is a reversed version 1/2 inlet with a v3/v4 icv . I'm fairly sure that my old v3 UK had 4 bolts though 🤔 I've replied to your pm about the ECU reset 😉 I've got some tech pics on how to voltage check the v1/V2 icv but unsure if they're the same as the v3/v4. As there's differences in the tps idle switch wiring. If you're ok with a multimeter I can dig em out and post em on here if you like ?

@Jay762 gutted for you bud , especially as you bought it on the understanding that you'd have a mechanically sound base for good power . Thought it was supposed to be a high quality "subaru specialist " build with no expense spared? You haven't had it long ,can you send it back to the builder /seller ? Sorry to hear that @Dan B89 glad to hear you could send it back and it hasn't put you off , best of luck with the hunt for a decent replacement 👍

Carb cleaner will be fine fella , just make sure it's evaporates before you re assemble. Yes bud that's the diaphragm and o ring , if you look at the pics it shows where they fit into the inlet . Just make sure the flat side of the diaphragm faces the icv and the chamfer side of the o ring faces the diaphragm . (Like in the pic of them both sitting on top of the inlet ). Also when you clean the old icv gasket off the inlet be careful not to drop bits of the old gasket into the inlet manifold, maybe seeing as you have new o ring and diaphragm, you could leave the old ones institu while cleaning the gasket face 😉

Welcome back to burble n boost nick 😊 Sounds like a good base for a fast classic too 😎 Yeah that's the idle control valve, it basically let's air into the engine when the throttle butterfly is closed . Get yourself some brake or electrical contact cleaner and a new icv gasket . Undo the 4 10mm bolts and spray the cleaner into the icv and remove and clean the diaphragm that's in the inlet behind the rubber o ring . Make sure it's all dry ,refit with new gasket ,do a ecu code reset and see if that fixes it . There's no need to remove the coolant pipes ,you can do it with them still attached to the icv and no coolant will leak out when you remove the icv from the inlet 😉 Heres a Couple of pics of mine removed and of the o ring and diaphragm .if that doesn't sort it I'll dig out the voltage checks for the icv so you can make sure its definitely fubar before replacing it 👍

Gutted for you, that your already looking for a replacement engine . Fairly sure the legacy long blocks (bottom end and heads) are the same as a impreza of the same phase /year . This might help widen your options, as there's a lot more impreza turbos being broken and you would just need to fit your twin turbo inlet and auxiliaries. Matt baker at mbdevolpments on f.b is a reputable scooby breaker on f.b and would probably be able to confirm what engines would fit . Best of luck getting it sorted and hope you can start to enjoy driving it soon

Looks tidy, nice choice chap . Was it a major project, or was it a case of finding the time to do it ? Either way bet it was worth it 😊

Just a new car😏 ..... or a new scooby😊

Just PM'd you Dave, pay pal spat that email address out saying it's not valid . Definitely bringing the v1sti money pit and would be nice to put some faces to the scoobs on here 😉

If it's been run for a long while with a leaking heagasket or has pushed all the coolant out and overheated . Then I think the bottom end tends to need to be refreshed . As combusting coolant in the bore could cause extra cylinder pressure or wear , leading to bottom end issues. Excessive heat also obviously causes wear throughout the whole engine too but if its caught early enough ,I can see why some would just do the headgaskets . Personally I'd refresh the bottom end on my own scoobs , as the majority of the labour is pulling the engine and getting the heads off but I do my own engine builds (so overall cost isn't much different)

Well the bug sti might be off to a new home soon 🥺 started to regret saying I'd ever sell it 🙄 So took the v1sti out for a little b road blatt to dust the cobwebs off and cheer me up ..... Even with the boost turned down to 1.3 bar she's a totally different "animal" and it's reminded me again of where my love of scoobies really does lie 😲😜🤪😊

I haven't got a clue what spec it is and have never seen it in the flesh .Afaik Darren at abw did the work to, showcase his parts and he makes some quality stuff . someone fairly local used to own it and Think its changed hands a few times since being built , so not sure how good it is now . Don't let that put you off though, if you like it go and see it for yourself to find out if it's still in good condition.

Have you got any service history with it ? If a shock or bearing had been replaced for maintenance it might not have been re aligned? Although there's plenty of tread is there any difference in the amount of tread on the inner or outer edges ? I had a full corner weighted geo set up done to my spec for £150 , so a 4 wheel alignment check should be a lot cheaper. At least you'd be able to rule out alignment issues too . Either way it doesn't sound right as these cars normally feel more planted than most other cars , due to the awd and low center of gravity boxer layout .

That 1st pic shows oil on the top of the head and block, so it could be leaking from there and running down the back of the head ? There's the main crankcase breather and possibly avcs oil feed hardlines in that area . On the back of the head there's turbo oil feed and turbo oil drain . It's difficult to say tbh but I'd give the area a clean with autoglym machine cleaner and replace the copper washers for all the oil lines where they attach to the banjo bolts .then visually check the turbo oil drain pipe and crankcase breather pipe for splits . The avcs also have oil screen filters at the other end of the avcs lines ,these can block and cause issues. Some remove them but I just bought new ones from icp .

Scoobies (like most cars) are set up from the factory to understeer. As this is easier for the majority of people to correct , let of the throttle and wait for the front wheels to gain traction. I'd say you have a Bush or geometry issue , unless a previous owner has upgraded a few suspension components to create oversteer . Do you know if a previous owner or have you changed anything... shocks ,wheel bearing lowering springs ect ,that might throw the geometry out ? Any uneven tyre wear ? Any worn bushes should've been picked up on the mot really but maybe take it for a 4 wheel alignment and ask them to check while it's on the ramp

Yeah slip joints do blow until they've become hot enough for the metal to expand and seal . They're good though ,as they allow movement during heat cycles, which in turn reduces stress on welds and flanges 😉 As for you jay...... Unequal length manifold (get her burbling like a scooby should) . Harvey trick up pipe matched to the size of your headers and turbo , too increase spool 😉 Speak to Alyn at Asperformance as he has the rights to "Harvey up pipes" and info on what size you'd need . If you need anymore help spending your money on scooby parts .... I'll gladly help you as my wife can't moan at me for spending YOUR money 😊

Yep ,I'm still up for this . Might have sold the bug sti 🥺 so I'll be there in the v1sti 😊 I've just pm'd you , to find out the PayPal details ,fella 👍

Bung above cylinder no 3 ,is definitely the best place for oil temp readings, the one behind the alternator is normally where oil pressure sensor is fitted bud

Dont get me wrong I'd love another early impreza sti project ,myself 😎 although I dont know if the wife would be as happy as me about it ,As I already have a v1 sti and a v7sti type UK 😊 Also I only mentioned the inner arches as they normally rust from the inside out ,so by the time you see it on the outside the inside is normally far worse . Just to give you a idea, for a clean original v2 sti ra the price would probably be around £7k . Although its difficult to put a price on yours "as is" tbh, as it depends on how much work it needs . It obviously depends on what other cars you drive but I'm sure youd love the rawness and power to weight ratio of a 280hp 1230kg car , once you got it up n running.

I'd imagine you'd sell it fairly easy but at the right price. As I had a closer look at the pics and it has rust on the outer arches (which normally means the inner arches are worse) and would probably need a full respray too . That coupled with the fact it's been sat a while ,so will probably need a bit of mechanical work,(new brakes,full service and cambelt kit). Means it's a fairly big project but would certainly be worth saving.

Hi n welcome. The v1 and v2 wrx sti ra are very desirable cars ,especially as their 25 yr old (or nearly) as it makes them eligible for U.S import . As Jay said the power to weight ratio and lack of driver aids make them so much more fun to drive . As far as the roll cage goes I'm not if they were a factory option but there is quite a few factory options that I'm not aware of (so it could well be) .Either way if kept relatively standard ,it will only go up in value 😉

The Subaru 4 post are fairly prone to seized or sticky pistons ,especially if the piston dust seals are damaged or the cars been sat a while . Warped discs will normally give pedal judder or you'd feel it at low breaking speeds. You might find a clean ,check all pistons are moving freely, re grease and re assembly might solve your problems

Look on the gearbox bellhousing near the starter motor, they're should be a ty### number on a white sticker . Give this a Google to find out the box's ratio then buy a diff with the same ratio . Other than ratio there's two main types of diff r160 all early classic and newage wrx 's / r180 later classic sti and newage sti's.If your unsure what r number the diff is give your year and model a Google to find out what should be in there .

Nice work bet you can almost smell the vpower now lol

Hi n welcome, nice selection of Subaru's you have there 😎 And I though I was overdoing it owning two imprezas 😊