savage bulldogs

@Jay762 think as the interior cooled the sun visors shrunk or moved or maybe a insect went between sensor and visor? Either way angling the sensors so they didn't point at the sun visors, stopped the alarm going off during the night and stopped me having to run around on the driveway at 2am, in my pants with a baseball bat 😂 @Newman2213 tbh I'm not sure if the fogs are standard as the v7sti type UK is pretty much as I bought it . However I do have receipts for the jdm clocks ,front grill and his headlights in the s.h folder. So they could be standard or someone's fitted them , sorry I've not been any help 🙄 Maybe someone else knows ?

Looking good @JamesJDMwagon always found ash good quality stuff ,too 👍 Decided to give the bug a "quick wash" . Soon evolved into touching up a few stone chips , polishing the headlight lenses and a coat of killer wax 😊

If the cars standard or even just mapped and if it's a road car , I'd say save your money and buy a standard full belt kit with water pump from import car parts. If you're doing it yourself make sure you read up on it , buy genuine stuff, and get yourself a cam locking tool .As the left bank cam pulleys are under pressure (cam lobes pushing on valve train) and they'll spin when you remove the belt , possibly damaging valves .

I had adjusted tps and fuel pressure and it was running bang on yesterday 😎 Took it out today and the afr is all over the place again 😒 I've got quite a few ECU pin voltage differences between the car and oe v1 schematics but it's a phase 1 car running a phase 1.5 tps . So it might have always had different voltages and was mapped that way in the first place . So after numerous chats with Tim at jtinnovations and Clive attowe the only thing we all think it could be , is that the old loom was giving wrong voltages and was mapped with them . Now the looms not faulty the ECU is receiving different voltages 🤔 It was running fine for 2yrs and Tbh I've only changed the rails and regulator. It's' starting to do my Swede in now ,as I've tried n tested everything I can think of and I'm almost ready to flick a match at it . So I'm going to run it up to attowes Monday week ,so he can check sensors, vac/intake leaks and see if a tweek can resolve it . In the meantime I'll have to show the bug some love and ......

Had the same thing in the bug , alarm going off randomly. Me being me , got all technical testing wires and fuses and couldn't find a fault 🤔 Turned out during the sunny weather I'd been leaving the sun visors down and they were blocking the signal to the movement sensors, I assume as the car cooled down inside it set the alarm off 🙄

Had 2 days off work this week , be rude not to spend them doing something constructive. So I Fitted a new toilet yesterday morning which kept the mrs happy and earnt me some brownie points .. Promptly cashed them in yesterday afternoon and fitted a new dsr door on the bug ,as the old 1 had a large dent in it . Then spent some time adjusting the fuel pressure and tps voltage on the v1 sti .... Think I've finally sussed it and its running much better atm 🤞

No probs, always glad to help if I can 👍 I generally try to give advice from my own experience, that way I know it's right and not just something I've read But I was told by a trusted source that at wot apexi will do as the map asks and will only adjust fuelling at part throttle. People slate the old skool "game boy " apexi for being old tech but it's tried n tested, it works and still has tech support. Which is more than can be said for some newer cheap ecus . With a fmic and induction kit you should probably be on the "gc8 super intake" setting in the airflow section. But mine was mapped on that setting with those mods . To get the most from the mods , I'd suggest to get it tweeked by a mapper , they'd adjust timing as well as fuelling and get the boost /torque curve nice n smooth. Plus the added bonus of better economy 😉

Glad it was a easy vac line fix fella 😎 Think 18 psi is about 1.2 bar ? No Subaru base map is that high , I'd imagine it should be 0.8 bar max on a jdm . Is that a aftermarket 3 port boost solenoid ? With that and a 1.2 bar boost target ,it would suggest it's not running a Subaru base map . My v1sti had grey 380cc injectors and a tdo5 as standard , at 0.8 bar it made 280hp from the factory. Running 1.2 bar on a tdo5 would require more fuel than the 380cc could supply, so that's probably why your seeing 100% duty . Personally I'd turn the boost down on the controller to a max of 1 bar . When you can afford it ,then fit the 440'cc injectors and get a mapper to tweek the map . Then cross your fingers and save for a stronger box lol

Could've had a hub /driveshaft replacement by a previous owner or if it's a import ? As they tend to fit different parts on the same year /model pending on which market they're made for . Classics have at least 3 different types of hub and shafts , pending on model ,year and whether they're UK spec or jdm. Normally a visual check of whether they're Male or female inner c.v ,abs "pick up" and a count of the amount of splines on the outer c.v will let you know what type you need . If you're still struggling to find the right one , take a note of the above and give Luke a ring at import car parts to find the correct replacement 😉

The apexi has got fuel correction at idle and cruise and will make adjustments to fuel trim but at wot it does what its told (runs the map that's on it) so I wouldn't just chuck bigger injectors in . What turbo did you have and what turbo have you fitted ? Same actuator or new one on the new turbo ?

I've only had the crank and no spark a few times ... Crank sensor unplugged . Inline fuse to aftermarket alarm blown . Teeth bent on the crank sprocket , so crank sensor wasn't picking up the position of the crank at certain points during its rotation. Could try checking engine loom earths (2 on the manifold) and multi plugs (by the battery) are making a good connection/free from corrosion

@JamesJDMwagon actuator working ok ? Haven't knocked off any vac lines by accident?

Try jumping it off another car ? Can you hear the fuel pump priming and have you definitely got spark ? You can check for spark by removing 1 off the coilpacks , putting a spark plug in it and "earthing " the plug tip . You should be able to see the plug fire when you crank it over , just Make sure you use insulated pliers 😉

Can't say I've seen exhaust gases melting paint before tbh , has the car been mapped with pops n bangs or does it have anti lag ? If so it's probably due to flames rather than gases , if not It must be running really rich to have a high enough petrol content to degrade the paintwork.. Think you can buy exhaust shields , normally made from carbon fiber or stainless steel

Assume it a bug or blob sti , has it got a aftermarket alarm ? I've got some wiring diagrams for v1 to v3 but not much for newage I'm afraid. But if you know the cam ,crank and spark pins have you done a harness ohm check between ECU pins and sensors ?

The v1sti still isn't running 100% right but I'm gonna stretch her legs a bit and pop down to the "east coast Japanese" f.b group "cars n coffee " meet . There's not too many active members on here in Suffolk 😒 but thought I'd share it in the regional section just in case someone spots it and fancies it . it's at the shotley shipwreck pub from 10 till 3 . There's normally everything from skylines to old skool micra's ,I'll be there about midday and I'll probably post a few pics on here when I get back 😉

I know the injector duty hasn't changed but Pressure and flow are different things.... ie a tdo4 at 1.2 bar would make , say 260 hp but a bigger td05 at 1.2 bar would make more like 320hp . Basically The bigger insides of the tdo5 would mean there's more volume, so more air is moved at the same pressure. The same principle could apply to the billet rails and parallel lines, I'm just not 100% convinced that's the only thing that's wrong . As a few of the voltage checks I've done to ECU pins for icv and tps are fractionally out (0.7v ish) . Either way I seem to have a 14.2 afr hot idle and 14.7 hot idle under load (with fans,heater windscreen ,wipers on ) now 😊 Which is spot on for v power 99ron

Well I'm not 100% happy but it's definitely running better , although it could well just be the extra fuel flow , it could also be there's something not quite right with the tps wiring. It's difficult to tell seeing as I'm running a 3 plug phase 1.5 tps and newage coilpacks on a phase 1 custom loom . So I can't always rely on phase 1 or phase 1.5 Subaru electrical diagrams , as it's a bit of a Frankenstein scooby 😊 Jt innovations that built the loom has been very helpful but unfortunately they're away for a fortnight atm . I don't want to waste attowes time by going up there , if there's a slight chance there's a mechanical or electrical fault instead of just a injector tweek . Did you get a PM about the turbos ?

Still got a rich hot idle of 13.6 and I've been running it a lot at idle /cruise ,trying to locate the previous high idle issue . Although I had set the pressure at standard rate I had no idea what the original adjustable fpr was running at , as it doesn't have a gauge (had no idea what pressure its been mapped on) . So I decided to wind open the fuel lab regulator and fit the old one next to it . That way the gauge on the fuel lab regulator would read the pressure on the old regulator. Then I set the fuel lab regulator to match 😉 This has improved the afr a bit and the rest could just be due to a increased flow from the bigger rails, new parallel lines and cleaned injectors. it's not excessively rich now and shes due a oil change in 1k , so I decided to change it earlier to lessen the chance of bore wash or the oil thinning. Still not 100% happy its running right but for now ,a repeat order from opie oils it is 😉

Still having a few issues with the v1sti atm , I know I could bring the v7sti but until she's better I'm not even thinking about show dates . Plus I'm waiting for the wife to book our holiday and don't want to commit and then have to let you all down .

I have heard that judder is fairly common but I've only experienced it a few times in 8yrs and 3 scoobies. It only seemed to happen if the car had been sitting for a long time (over a month) and after the first hard launch it went . I just assumed it was dirt /surface rust or a glaze on the flywheel/clutch plate , that burnt off when launched . Cheap replacement or paddle clutches can be more prone to judder but with the low mileage on yours I doubt it would've been replaced. Do you know if the clutch fluid has been refreshed recently? As it often gets forgotten at service time and is prone to degrade due to the clutch reservoir being located directly over the turbo hotside. A fluid refresh can sometimes resolve numerous clutch issues . Oil contamination can cause judder /slip too, so maybe check the underside of the bellhousing (where engine and box join) for any tell tale signs of oil leakage from the crank rear oil seal or gearbox idle shaft . If there is a leak theres a inspection bung under the tmic to look at the back of the flywheel and a plate near the bellhousing underneath, to check the clutch side .

Tbh I couldn't tell you the size of my plate , without measuring it but I vaguely remember him saying something about needing a minimum amount of white round the edges . If so maybe you could trim a bit off the holder (top n bottom) too show a white gap between numbers and holder ? Just double check , before you hack anything about though bud , as I might have been mistaken or it might not apply to your scoob

I know jdm plates can legally be smaller but I think there's a rule about showing white all the way round ,between the numbers and the edge of the plate . As I could've had the whole plate made 20mm smaller and still be 0.5mm above the legal limit . I just wanted a smaller than UK sized plate and didn't want anything to wind coppers up lol

I spoke to @kayzarh and he said he'd sell either of them . I pointed him in the direction of this thread ,so hopefully he'll PM you

Sent the old loom off to be copied and didn't get it back , tbh it was pretty fooked though . Although I'm definitely running exactly the same pressure on the fpr , it could be that the new lines and rails "flow " better 🤔 As that might mean a slight increase in fuel delivery but seeing as I've found 1 fault with the loom , I'm not ruling out there could be another problem with it . I know the car fairly well anyways but I'm starting to learn a fair bit about ohm resistance , what ECU pins do what and how. So suppose at least I've learned some new stuff along the way and I'm sure I'll suss it eventually. Think I might know someone with a spare vf22 or tdo5 16g , he's a member on here I'll text him and get him to PM you if he does 😉