savage bulldogs

Cheers ,well over engineered but its getting there 😊 Although all the ally pipework has a swage or bump on every join , I will get round to getting some better clamps and matching blue joiners (it's tweaking OCD lol) ... well once I decide what I'm doing with the pipework 🤔 Since refitting a stock position cold side I've had to make do with what I had to hand to make it work .As I'd clocked the aps sr40 coldside to loose the u bend in the fmic pipework that runs over the hotside. So for now it's been twisted/ lifted away from the hotside as far as possible and has a straight black silicone joiner in it 😏 I'm thinking about maybe trying to reroute the turbo outlet fmic pipework clockwise around the bay .Then connect it to the current fmic to throttle body pipework by the battery/bottom rad hose . This means I'd have to convert the current fmic intake pipework to connect to the reversed inlet throttle body and run the core in reverse 🤔 Only a idea at this stage but it would mean the fmic pipework wouldn't run over the hotside (less heatsoak ,maybe) and I could cut out more fmic pipework by losing the pipework that runs from fmic core ,under the wheel arch and through the inner wing . Might also try to step up to a bigger diameter bore ally pipe on the turbo inlet tract sooner ,as at the moment it's stock size from turbo inlet all the way to the maf. I know the stock turbo inlet neck will always be restrictive but you never know it might help flow . For now I've turned the boost target down to 1.3 bar and I'm only getting a bit of overboost to 1.35 in 4th through to 6th . Spoke to Clive attowe today about which of the 18 settings for actuator strength he'd like me to start with by haven't got a clue when I'll find the time to book in a dyno tweek atm 😏

Proppa roasting in sunny Suffolk yesterday ,so I have a red neck and possible sunstroke but ..... i also have a new turbo fitted 😊 Fitting seemed to go easily, without any modifications needed . I pulled the ignition fuse and cranked it over a few times to make sure it was primed with oil , set up some low targets and duty on the avcr and took it for a test run . All seemed good so I decided to switch the avcr back over to the original high boost setting for the old aps sr40 (gt28r) . The old gt28r only occasionally used to hit the peak 1.6 bar it was targeted for in 4th and above (on a cold day) . Did a few part throttle pulls while monitoring afr and knock and all seemed good . Made my way to a slip lane and did a 3rd gear pull ,thinking the most it would make would be about 1.5 bar ..... 1.74 bar and it went like a stabbed rat 😲😜 Although afr and the apexi peak levels were good I'm gonna back the boost duty and targets off a bit ,until i manage to find the time to get attowe to work his magic So far ,so good and of course heres a few pics 😉

Well top Mark's for DHL, Frankfurt on Wednesday night, on my doorstep in Suffolk on Thursday afternoon 😊 First impressions of the arashi turbo are that it's been well made , all the machined surfaces are well finished and not burred. Every nut and bolt has engineer's paint on ,which is normally used once a fixing has been torqued to mark the position of the nut . There was a fair bit of stuff in the fitting kit ,which all appears to be good quality... Turbo outlet and uppipe studs/nuts , numerous different strength springs for the billet actuator, oil line with banjo bolts and gaskets . I never use anything but Subaru exhaust gaskets but the gaskets themselves look better quality than oe ,with a couple of more layers and a polished finish . There's also a core balance sheet ,so hopefully it's been balanced and a serial number id card along with some other info . I think we've are mugged off in the UK for the price of turbos and hopefully the arashi will be reasonable quality but only time and a dyno tweek will tell . So here's a few pics for now 😉

Cheers chap, hopefully I wont need one but if I do that's a pretty cheap solution 👍 As for what am I doing to my subaru today 😉

Oh yes bud , know a fair few people with dedicated track cars and helped build a few of them . So fully understand that there's a massive difference between road and race . I just mentioned the pfc carbon metallic pads ,as they were a similar sounding compound to what the OP said he'd used on track before . Tbh the dba t2 discs are probably good enough for occasional track days but that's why I recommend he speak to alyn at as performance .As he certainly knows his stuff and will take the time to go through tried n tested options, rather than just selling you expensive stuff you dont need or can afford 😉 Do totally agree with the need for a swirl pot or spec c anti surge fuel pump cage (to stop fuel cut when cornering ) and a baffled sump if he intends to track it though 👍

If you mean the purge valve , its bolted to the underside of the inlet manifold, normally has a couple of vacuum lines attached and a plug from the loom . They're a bit of a pain to get to ,with the inlet still attached to the engine but they can be removed without removing the whole inlet . Just check the vacuum lines from the purge valve to the charcoal canister (black plastic cylinder at the front of the bay) ,fuel line and intake pipe are all still connected and dont have any splits in them first . As the evap system doesn't often fail tbh .

Well the rough quote for for the turbo rebuild was £350 , so seeing as it only cost me £150 in the first place , I dropped it off for them to have a look at and hopefully get a upgrade as well as a rebuild . Once they'd took it apart they then called me and said it would be close to £1k to rebuild instead ,due to the Garrett ball bearing core 🤔🤨✌. So I went and picked it up and its currently sat in the scooby scraps shed in a box 😏. So after loads of searching and research ing for a cheaper option ,I've decided to go with a arashi tdo5 billet 20g with a polished and ported 7cm housing. Yeah, I know it's no Garrett and the haters are probably gonna hate 🙄 I've spent a bit on the "project" over the years but its been done over a long period and the whole thing still comes in just under £6k (including the purchase of the v1sti ) . So after seeing nothing but good reviews, I thought I'd give the £600 turbo a go . Knowing that if it does eventually need a rebuild it will cost a fraction of the Garrett gt28r ,as it's a journal based turbo . According to the tracking its currently in the DHL Frankfurt hub , so it should be here soon and I'll post some pics and see how well it looks like its been made when it gets here 😊

If a carbon metallic pad compound is what your used to , then I'd recommend pfc pads and dba discs . Mine is only a road car but the combo seems very good , I bought mine from Alyn at "Asperformance" . Very knowledgeable chap and well worth a call to discuss your needs and budget . R.m performance in banbury is worth a call if you want someone fairly local . They build road and rally scoobies and although I build my own engines , Mick at rm performance is one of the few people I'd let work on my car , if I couldn't do it myself .

Not too sure if that chart applies to your model , as it says my 00 at the top and no year difference on the UK turbo section ? . Some of the sti and other model ECU numbers don't look right to me either but I could be wrong . Was fairly sure my old UK v3 ran 0.6 bar before I had it mapped with a esl daughter board up to 1.4 bar (265 hp) but that was almost 10 yrs ago lol . With those mods it does need remapping and you'd certainly get more power /higher boost target but it's difficult to say if that will "fix" any issues Bear in mind The tdo4 and grey injectors will limit the remap numbers to sub 290hp . Might be worth getting a smoke test done ,to make sure non of the other fmic pipework or inlet tract is leaking boost first . As I may be wrong about the standard v3 UK boost being only 0.6 bar. The other possibility could be that it's in limp mode due to the mods , most models will only run 0.5 bar if the ECU senses something running outside its base map parameters. As I said before, i personally wouldn't be using boost on a scooby that's had a decat and fmic fitted without being mapped . If it leans off or overboosts there's a good chance you'll be footing the bill for a rebuild, which is much more costly than a esl remap .

From memory a 97 UK turbo has about 220hp and only runs 0.6 bar from the factory , so quite possible it's running the correct amount of boost . Running a decat and fmic but not being mapped is quite risky and could lead to a expensive rebuild . Personally I wouldn't drive a scooby on boost with those major breathing mods until its mapped . The standard tdo4 is fairly small and not really suited to a fmic , they're much more responsive on a tmic . Due to the extra volume of air needed to fill a fmic and it's pipework (bigger turbos fill the fmic quicker)

I may well be wrong as I'm not up to spec on the n.a engine range , unfortunately but is the 133 hp version still single cam ? As I wouldn't have thought that you'd gain 20 hp on a n.a by just adding bits from another engine or doing breathing mods . Saying that I think some of the later dohc 2ltr n.a engines have almost 160hp, so maybe a later 2ltr 16v na engine might be the answer for more power but keeping it n.a . Most people will just say to improve performance on a na, concentrate on handling ,lightening and braking mods to get the most out of the boxer low center of gravity and the AWD system. Then save for a turbo version

I'm dreading when I have to change any hubs ,bearings or shafts on my 94 sti , they've been in there 25yrs and the shafts have probably been twisted in there nicely by the 6 speed 🙄 How much was the hydraulic puller, Chop ?

Hi n welcome, sorry to hear you've got problems so soon into ownership , its relatively common for the 4 post to stick . Although normally only if it's been sitting for a while or the dust seals have deteriorated. 4 pot 2nd hand calipers normally sell between £100 to £200, depending on condition . Although they sometimes pop up with used discs in the higher end of that price range too. If the pistons can be removed and are not completely stuck ? you can buy replacement new standard pistons ,updated stainless pistons and seal kits , from the likes of "asperformance" or "import car parts" . Might work out cheaper, if you know your way round a spanner . If not , I Think "Suffolk jdm solutions " in bury st Edmunds have a few impreza wagons in for breaking atm , might be worth messaging him on f.b . As for oils and filters I tend to use opie oils or import car parts , for either oe or mahle oil filters and a quality fully synthetic oil .

Cheers , it's no expensive owen development turbo but at almost half the cost of the gt28r rebuild and with good reviews from the states , I thought I'd give it a go . Dam right Garry , can't wait to get it fitted and actually start giving the v1sti a dam good spanking for misbehaving ..... and after all that is what she was built for 😊

Gave up getting the gt28r with the popped seals rebuilt, quote started off at £350 😎 .... after inspection the cost went up to nearly £1,000 wtf 🤪😏. So today I bought a brand new billet wheeled tdo5 20g instead 😊

I'll start the ball rolling on this by sticking my name down , haven't a clue what I'll be driving by then but I'll be on the stand on Sunday (not camping though) 1. Savage Bulldogs (clive)

Yes ,Lower octane fuel can cause it to lean off under boost, which in turn might cause limp mode . Have you got any proof it's been mapped ? As 14 psi (just under 1 bar) is a low boost target for a mapped car ,admittedly that could just be a inaccurate boost gauge .Most mapped cars will have the boost target upped to 1.2 to 1.5 bar pending on mods and engine condition . If you dont have proof of a remap standard boost target would be between 0.6 bar and 0.8 bar , you'd have to Google your model and year specific oe boost target. So if you're hitting 0.9 bar on a standard map boost target ,it could well be overboosting and that might cause it to go into limp mode . Although you haven't got a cel light , I'd suggest to get the codes read while it's in possible limp mode . As it might log a minor fault on the ECU but not show a cel, due to it resetting when you restart the car .

I'd like to vote for a few ,as I've only done a couple of local meets but after finding out the turbo rebuild was gonna cost almost triple the original quote 😏 I'm not sure when the v1sti will be show ready , still 🙄 and I've got 4 people begging for me to sell them the bug 😏 I always make the effort to go to japshow finale with s.o.c ,even though the weather's sometimes a bit moist . Seeing as the pods fairly central, it's nice to see some of the active members from across the country face to face . Hopefully I'll be able to stick my name down for a few more but for now ,I'll definitely come to the finale , even if I've sold the bug and have to come in the caddy workhorse lol

Hopefully it was just the sensor positioning and leaving the sun visors down. Had me stumped for a couple of days and the neighbor's were a bit miffed with the noise..... well probably that and me running around the driveway in my pants with a bat everytime it went off during the night 🙄😂

Met up with a good mate of mine and went to a local retro car meet . Was nice to finally drive the v1sti again 😎 His evo6 rs is a lovely example , who says evo and scooby owners can't get on 😊 If its rapid ,retro and petrol, generally I like it 😉

I had a similar issue last summer , didn't do it in the winter 🤔 Turned out that it was because I'd been leaving the sun visors down and it blocked the movement sensor 🤐🙄 repositioning of the sensor sorted it , hopefully it's the same thing.

I've heard a few people say that scooby clutches judder a bit more than most cars but not that the standard clutches are heavy tbh . Check the colour of your clutch fluid , as this often gets forgotten at service time and does tend to degrade. As the clutch fluid reservoir is directly above the turbo hotside and the heat cycles affect longevity. You might find a fluid refresh might help with pedal feel , either way it's worth try if it looks black'ish and is much cheaper than a new clutch 😉

Think they should concentrate on dangerous drivers tbh and by that, I don't just mean kids hooning around . It's the ones who are oblivious to their surroundings, pulling out on people at junctions, not speeding up on slip lanes to match the speed of traffic flow ,changing lanes without indicating and fooking about with their phones behind the wheel . There's quite a few motorbikes with much louder exhausts than the cars round here , too .

If it's had "breathing " mods like decat ,intake pipework, cone filter ect it should be mapped . I assume it hasn't been mapped as most mappers would have mapped in a higher 1.4/ 1.5 boost target. If it hasn't been mapped that might well explain why you're getting overboost , as the oe ECU parameters can be exceeded because boost control system will be working overtime trying to keep the boost in check . This could cause the boost solenoid or actuator to weaken . Personally I wouldn't drive a unmapped scooby with breathing mods on boost until its been mapped. There's only really boost solenoid, actuator, ECU solenoid duty and vacuum lines that control boost , so one of those is at fault .

Has it been mapped ? Has it got any modifications? If not then check vacuum lines from boost solenoid, actuator and inlet manifold for leaks ,cracks or missing hoses . If Nothing seems visually wrong you can remove the boost solenoid and clean it with brake cleaner to see if that improves things . Failing actuator could be another culprit but you'd need to pressure check that with a vacuum pump to see if its operating at the correct pressure for your model .