savage bulldogs

What year / version is your sti ? A remap will generally give 30hp 30flbs ish on a completely standard car ,along with better economy off boost . What county are you in or do you know who you want to do the remap already ? As the mapper you choose would be able to give you a better idea of gains to be had with all cats in place ,for your particular model and type of remap software used . Fuel pumps I personally use rcm ones but there's quite a few choices out there pending on budget and long term hp target /usage

The ej207 can be fitted to any classic but there's a lot to be swapped over and you'd be better off using a donor newage sti . ECU harness, ECU, engine loom ,complete engine and auxiliaries ect . Or It can be done with the likes of a jtinnovations avcs loom and aftermarket ECU (link g4+ or syvecs). V3 and v4 are pretty much the same ,so straight swap long engine with either your old engines inlet and auxiliaries or the new engines inlet and auxiliaries. V1 and v2 long engines (block and heads) will fit but you'll need to fit your existing.... Water crossover pipe ,complete inlet (sensors ,single coilpack,fuel rails ect) ,engine loom ,intake pipework, p.s pump ,turbo . The main thing regarding fuelling is that your injectors are the same size to suit your existing ECU (Yellow 440cc or grey 380cc ) . But even if you fit the same injectors, the difference between sti higher lift cams and turbo size differences that the ECU is suited to , could cause fuelling issues . So I'd definitely get the car on a dyno to check it's running healthy after fitting. If you're looking at doing the swap yourself, I've done a v1 to v3 ,then a v3 back to v1 swap and there's some pics n tips on my "sticky build thread " 😉

Either Mbdevolpments or jdm solutions Suffolk (both on f.b) will probably have newage foglights in stock , much cheaper. I'm sure the loom will have the plugs at the dash and bumper ends but on some classics the foglight mounting brackets have to be removed to fit the covers . So check the mountings are under the covers and buy the switch at the same time , if you have a blank where the switch should be 😉

Blue box exedy is standard equipment and good for high 300hp , fit a new spigot bearing and I'd recommend a new rear crank oil seal . As they do wear and are likely to need changing soon ,plus they're much easier to fit while the box and clutch are already off

If it's not been mapped 1.5 bar is about double the boost the fuelling will be set for , so try to stop using full throttle until you suss it . You could try checking the vac lines for splits from the boost solenoid to turbo outlet ,actuator and any other ones on your set up . Also remove the boost solenoid spray some brake cleaner in it to clean it out ,let it dry and refit it

You're supposed to have a black rubber seal "scoop undertray" to make sure the airflow from the scoop is directed through the tmic adequately. If the tmic isn't getting enough airflow it will suffer from heatsoak, basically warming the intake air instead of cooling it . You should be able to pick up a second hand under tray from a breakers "jdm solutions Suffolk" might have one in stock atm . Just bear in mind if you have a wrx scoop and tmic you'll need a wrx undertray . If it's a sti scoop and tmic then you'll need a sti undertray 😉

@Jay762 think as the interior cooled the sun visors shrunk or moved or maybe a insect went between sensor and visor? Either way angling the sensors so they didn't point at the sun visors, stopped the alarm going off during the night and stopped me having to run around on the driveway at 2am, in my pants with a baseball bat 😂 @Newman2213 tbh I'm not sure if the fogs are standard as the v7sti type UK is pretty much as I bought it . However I do have receipts for the jdm clocks ,front grill and his headlights in the s.h folder. So they could be standard or someone's fitted them , sorry I've not been any help 🙄 Maybe someone else knows ?

Looking good @JamesJDMwagon always found ash good quality stuff ,too 👍 Decided to give the bug a "quick wash" . Soon evolved into touching up a few stone chips , polishing the headlight lenses and a coat of killer wax 😊

If the cars standard or even just mapped and if it's a road car , I'd say save your money and buy a standard full belt kit with water pump from import car parts. If you're doing it yourself make sure you read up on it , buy genuine stuff, and get yourself a cam locking tool .As the left bank cam pulleys are under pressure (cam lobes pushing on valve train) and they'll spin when you remove the belt , possibly damaging valves .

I had adjusted tps and fuel pressure and it was running bang on yesterday 😎 Took it out today and the afr is all over the place again 😒 I've got quite a few ECU pin voltage differences between the car and oe v1 schematics but it's a phase 1 car running a phase 1.5 tps . So it might have always had different voltages and was mapped that way in the first place . So after numerous chats with Tim at jtinnovations and Clive attowe the only thing we all think it could be , is that the old loom was giving wrong voltages and was mapped with them . Now the looms not faulty the ECU is receiving different voltages 🤔 It was running fine for 2yrs and Tbh I've only changed the rails and regulator. It's' starting to do my Swede in now ,as I've tried n tested everything I can think of and I'm almost ready to flick a match at it . So I'm going to run it up to attowes Monday week ,so he can check sensors, vac/intake leaks and see if a tweek can resolve it . In the meantime I'll have to show the bug some love and ......

Had the same thing in the bug , alarm going off randomly. Me being me , got all technical testing wires and fuses and couldn't find a fault 🤔 Turned out during the sunny weather I'd been leaving the sun visors down and they were blocking the signal to the movement sensors, I assume as the car cooled down inside it set the alarm off 🙄

Had 2 days off work this week , be rude not to spend them doing something constructive. So I Fitted a new toilet yesterday morning which kept the mrs happy and earnt me some brownie points .. Promptly cashed them in yesterday afternoon and fitted a new dsr door on the bug ,as the old 1 had a large dent in it . Then spent some time adjusting the fuel pressure and tps voltage on the v1 sti .... Think I've finally sussed it and its running much better atm 🤞

No probs, always glad to help if I can 👍 I generally try to give advice from my own experience, that way I know it's right and not just something I've read But I was told by a trusted source that at wot apexi will do as the map asks and will only adjust fuelling at part throttle. People slate the old skool "game boy " apexi for being old tech but it's tried n tested, it works and still has tech support. Which is more than can be said for some newer cheap ecus . With a fmic and induction kit you should probably be on the "gc8 super intake" setting in the airflow section. But mine was mapped on that setting with those mods . To get the most from the mods , I'd suggest to get it tweeked by a mapper , they'd adjust timing as well as fuelling and get the boost /torque curve nice n smooth. Plus the added bonus of better economy 😉

Glad it was a easy vac line fix fella 😎 Think 18 psi is about 1.2 bar ? No Subaru base map is that high , I'd imagine it should be 0.8 bar max on a jdm . Is that a aftermarket 3 port boost solenoid ? With that and a 1.2 bar boost target ,it would suggest it's not running a Subaru base map . My v1sti had grey 380cc injectors and a tdo5 as standard , at 0.8 bar it made 280hp from the factory. Running 1.2 bar on a tdo5 would require more fuel than the 380cc could supply, so that's probably why your seeing 100% duty . Personally I'd turn the boost down on the controller to a max of 1 bar . When you can afford it ,then fit the 440'cc injectors and get a mapper to tweek the map . Then cross your fingers and save for a stronger box lol

Could've had a hub /driveshaft replacement by a previous owner or if it's a import ? As they tend to fit different parts on the same year /model pending on which market they're made for . Classics have at least 3 different types of hub and shafts , pending on model ,year and whether they're UK spec or jdm. Normally a visual check of whether they're Male or female inner c.v ,abs "pick up" and a count of the amount of splines on the outer c.v will let you know what type you need . If you're still struggling to find the right one , take a note of the above and give Luke a ring at import car parts to find the correct replacement 😉

The apexi has got fuel correction at idle and cruise and will make adjustments to fuel trim but at wot it does what its told (runs the map that's on it) so I wouldn't just chuck bigger injectors in . What turbo did you have and what turbo have you fitted ? Same actuator or new one on the new turbo ?

I've only had the crank and no spark a few times ... Crank sensor unplugged . Inline fuse to aftermarket alarm blown . Teeth bent on the crank sprocket , so crank sensor wasn't picking up the position of the crank at certain points during its rotation. Could try checking engine loom earths (2 on the manifold) and multi plugs (by the battery) are making a good connection/free from corrosion

@JamesJDMwagon actuator working ok ? Haven't knocked off any vac lines by accident?

Try jumping it off another car ? Can you hear the fuel pump priming and have you definitely got spark ? You can check for spark by removing 1 off the coilpacks , putting a spark plug in it and "earthing " the plug tip . You should be able to see the plug fire when you crank it over , just Make sure you use insulated pliers 😉

Can't say I've seen exhaust gases melting paint before tbh , has the car been mapped with pops n bangs or does it have anti lag ? If so it's probably due to flames rather than gases , if not It must be running really rich to have a high enough petrol content to degrade the paintwork.. Think you can buy exhaust shields , normally made from carbon fiber or stainless steel

Assume it a bug or blob sti , has it got a aftermarket alarm ? I've got some wiring diagrams for v1 to v3 but not much for newage I'm afraid. But if you know the cam ,crank and spark pins have you done a harness ohm check between ECU pins and sensors ?

The v1sti still isn't running 100% right but I'm gonna stretch her legs a bit and pop down to the "east coast Japanese" f.b group "cars n coffee " meet . There's not too many active members on here in Suffolk 😒 but thought I'd share it in the regional section just in case someone spots it and fancies it . it's at the shotley shipwreck pub from 10 till 3 . There's normally everything from skylines to old skool micra's ,I'll be there about midday and I'll probably post a few pics on here when I get back 😉

I know the injector duty hasn't changed but Pressure and flow are different things.... ie a tdo4 at 1.2 bar would make , say 260 hp but a bigger td05 at 1.2 bar would make more like 320hp . Basically The bigger insides of the tdo5 would mean there's more volume, so more air is moved at the same pressure. The same principle could apply to the billet rails and parallel lines, I'm just not 100% convinced that's the only thing that's wrong . As a few of the voltage checks I've done to ECU pins for icv and tps are fractionally out (0.7v ish) . Either way I seem to have a 14.2 afr hot idle and 14.7 hot idle under load (with fans,heater windscreen ,wipers on ) now 😊 Which is spot on for v power 99ron

Well I'm not 100% happy but it's definitely running better , although it could well just be the extra fuel flow , it could also be there's something not quite right with the tps wiring. It's difficult to tell seeing as I'm running a 3 plug phase 1.5 tps and newage coilpacks on a phase 1 custom loom . So I can't always rely on phase 1 or phase 1.5 Subaru electrical diagrams , as it's a bit of a Frankenstein scooby 😊 Jt innovations that built the loom has been very helpful but unfortunately they're away for a fortnight atm . I don't want to waste attowes time by going up there , if there's a slight chance there's a mechanical or electrical fault instead of just a injector tweek . Did you get a PM about the turbos ?

Still got a rich hot idle of 13.6 and I've been running it a lot at idle /cruise ,trying to locate the previous high idle issue . Although I had set the pressure at standard rate I had no idea what the original adjustable fpr was running at , as it doesn't have a gauge (had no idea what pressure its been mapped on) . So I decided to wind open the fuel lab regulator and fit the old one next to it . That way the gauge on the fuel lab regulator would read the pressure on the old regulator. Then I set the fuel lab regulator to match 😉 This has improved the afr a bit and the rest could just be due to a increased flow from the bigger rails, new parallel lines and cleaned injectors. it's not excessively rich now and shes due a oil change in 1k , so I decided to change it earlier to lessen the chance of bore wash or the oil thinning. Still not 100% happy its running right but for now ,a repeat order from opie oils it is 😉