savage bulldogs

Result , always good to see something go from major worries to a cheap fix 😎

Not really looked into the value of bug sti wagons tbh , just know they didn't make many and they only made them in classic n bug versions . Think I've only ever seen 1 in the flesh before at my local tuners in Norwich 😎 By the way I'm not saying , don't modify your scoob cos it's rare ish , after all I own one of the first few v1 jdm wrx sti's ever built . I've seen standard ones leap in value lately (due to being eligible for 25yr U.S import laws) but mines far from standard , so probably worth less but it makes me smile whenever I drive it 😉 The likes of turbo dynamics or Owen developments have a very good reputation for rebuilding or upgrading turbos. Most of us use icp for oe stuff , too 👍

Sooo , seeing as the v1sti has been sitting there since November and a few of you have got their scoobs back on the road .... I decided to take the weekend of and devote it to getting her up n running again . And how about no 😏 Woke up this morning in (Not so sunny) Suffolk to SNOW wtf lol

Thought that might have been the reason for your boost issues but tbh my money would've been on a faulty actuator. You might have to refit the actuator it was mapped with too , so it has the same strength spring that it was mapped with 😉

High n welcome to s.o.c Always nice to hear a scooby getting some tlc 😎 What is it ? Feel free to start a project thread in the build thread section to 😉

Quite a rare car you've got there , as Subaru only made a few bug sti's and didn't make any sti wagons from blobeyes onwards . So I would advise you not to mod it to much , if you want to keep the resale value high . I think cusco make under h and diff braces for bugs ,rear strutt braces help but I'm unsure if saloon fit the wagon tbh .

At least you're considering a replacement already , hope your situation means you'll be back soon , bud 🤞

It is fiddily to do the spark plugs on a 4 cylinder scoob but I've only ever heard of people jacking the engine on h6 (6 cylinder) engines . To lift it off the mounts and slide the engine to the side in order to get more clearance. I wouldn't Jack the engine up by the sump , just in case it dents and affects the oil pick up or breaks the sump seal . I have read a few people that remove the plugs from underneath but personally I always do them from the top . By removing the air box and washer bottle. I use a 1/2" drive spark plug socket taped to a 1/2" to 3/8 " adapter with a ratchet spanner . As this gives you enough clearance to withdraw the plug when removing and stops you leaving the socket stuck on the plug when refitting 😉

Shame that Geoff, was a lovely leggy ... Is it gonna be replaced with another scoob , or are you just sticking with the diesel Beemer?

I'd definitely fit the oil temp sensor in the bung above cyl 3 under the tmic . As cyl 3 is the hotest cylinder (best max oil temp reading) and the sandwich plate type , takes it's oil temp reading from outside the engine near the oil cooler . I've been running a 4 in 1 gauge for over 5 yrs in my v1sti but will soon be swapping for Defis.,It's only 60mm dia so doesn't look too big imo and can be mounted wherever you prefer . In the v7 sti I have a ATI triple gauge pod ,which is a lot bigger but is made bespoke to fit in the top of the dash . You can buy covers /pods that fit in place of air vents or attach to the steering column ECT from the likes of "east coast flocking " on f.b . Only 2 pics I've got off the gauges in my two scoobs on my phone .

Yeah , I definitely agree ,braking ,steering and fuelling are not areas to scrimp on 👍 The normal price for quality stuff is about £25 per mtr and that's what I thought I'd bought . Just glad it fell apart or I probably wouldn't have known , as visually it looks the same as the proppa stuff 😏.

I much prefer spending other people's money.... my Mrs can't moan at me for that 😉 Not entirely sure it's my fault anyways tbh , it's probably just the start of things to come but hey if you wanna tell your misses it's my fault , fill ya boots buddy 😂

After test fitting the rails ,lines ,fpr and new loom I found that I'd need to extend a few of the braided fuel lines to make it all work . So had a search on eBay for UK sellers and bought what I thought was 1 mtr of braided fuel line from the UK . 3mtrs turned up , which I thought was a bit strange for £25 but it was listed as quality UK ,high pressure stainless steel overbraid fuel line 😎. Normally I put a few layers of tape around the pipework, before cutting. As this stops the overbraid fraying too much to get the fittings over the ends . Although this stuff looks good , once I removed the tape, the overbraid just separates from the pipework 🤔 Messaged the UK seller back to ask if it was just a section that was faulty, only to be answered by someone in Hong Kong 🙄 So this stuff is going nowhere near my scoob , let alone using it on a fuel system . I've ordered some better quality stuff from a local high pressure hose company and learned that "eBay UK seller " doesn't mean that it's not cheap Hong Kong crap 🙄. Pic of the poor quality hose on the inlet is what happens once I removed the tape straight after cutting , the other pic is of what happened to it after cutting and leaving on the bench overnight . Dread to think about what it would be like after having fuel running through it with the heat from the engine wtf 🤨

No problem, disconnecting the battery and letting the system fully discharge ,is supposed to reset the ecu but only any codes and possibly anything "learned" by the ecu . If it's been mapped the new map will be the stock map , so it won't revert back to the factory "stock" map . It's probably been mapped using ecutek and shouldn't cost much to tweek the map if you can find the person who mapped it . If not it will probably mean you'd have to pay another mapper for the tweek and another ecutek licence fee (about £150 ). Best of luck with it 👍

I had a Vauxhall 🤐 that burned a resistor in the back of the dash ,due to the alternator over charging at 18.8v .So there might be a resistor , fuse ,relay ,ECT also in the charging system too . Have you used a multi meter to check the charging system voltage both off load and full load?

Good posibily that the bigger dia maf tube , spun trumpet and cone filter had been mapped in previously. As it would normally have run a bit rough without those mapped in in the first place . I'd imagine it might be running a bit rich with a more restrictive air intake , although the standard air box set up is (supposedly) good for low 400hp. The ecu might "learn " the new (old oe) air box but it could also be pulling timing and adjusting fuelling for safety. If the ecu is locked to a mapper and you don't know who or don't want to use them , maybe get a dyno health check done for piece of mind (about £60)

Not really up to scratch on my newer stuff change over years and spec tbh. The early female driveshafts have a hole for a round pin to go through, to stop them sliding off the gearbox stub axles . Maybe the male driveshaft inner c.v's wouldn't have the same hole in ? So a visual check for a 6mm ish dia hole ,that goes right through the inner c.v (between inner c.v gator and box) might answer your question

Think your wrx will have a pre cat in the uppipe most swap it for a sti or aftermarket uppipe when De cating ..... So you might as well add that to the list too 😋

Welcome to the slippery slope of modding scoobys 😋

I haven't posted on here yet ,as I haven't worked or researched on a 2.5 , so can't help with tech comparability questions. Most cams do have number stamps to identify what their spec and fitment is afaik . I've been considering a 2.5 ltr build once my 2ltr needs replacing, so definitely feel free to start a project thread 😊. I so I'm a bit patchy on my bug onwards spec . I think some bug /blob jdm sti's might have duel avcs and some do have "big port heads". If you've got access to cnc ? a 14mm stud conversion might be worth doing too . I was just going to get Alyn at asperformance to cdb convert , bore ,hone, deck and 14mm stud convert a block for me . Think, Another thing that helps with "valve Jack up" is using the type of buckets with removable "shims" . Unsure if they do these for the phase 2 onward heads though . Might have some spec for the heads on a 2ltr ej207 (UK bug sti with single avcs cams ) , if it's any use ? Best of luck with the build 👍

Had the nissmo side feed injectors turn up today after Clive attowe tuning had ultrasoniclly cleaned and flow matched them . Just need the stainless steel overbraid fuel line to get here and I can start putting her back together at last. Bug sti is lovely to drive but I do miss driving the old girl 😒. Seeing as I seemed to have inherited a set of 3 defi 60mm gauges and controller😎 , I've been searching for a pod to fit the early preface dash . I've only seen 1 dash top pod for preface and tbh it looked nasty and I don't fancy drilling holes in the top of the dash to feed the wires through . Other option was a pillar pod and I think they look a bit too "max power" for my liking . Plus I think 3 x 60mm gauges on the drivers a post would be a bit distracting/block my view at junctions . Almost gave up but then spotted this , so hopefully it will be here in a fortnight and I can finally sell my "temporary" 4 in 1 gauge that I've been running for the past 6yrs or so lol .

So I just thought ,If the arm had to be drilled that 1 or the other might not be oe spec or as it left the factory. Ive had about 5 top entry oe tdo5's in bits over the years and they've all had the same size hole on the wastegate end , although some had different looking actuators. Maybe a previous owner fitted a new hot side due to the original cracking ? Either way a bit of pre tension or ,different actuator or a map tweek will probably sort it . Just don't use wot in the higher gears to keep the overboost in check 😉

Yeah I started off simplifying the pipework by removing the purge system and shortening the fmic pipework. Seems to have gone from easy on the eye ,to mad max meets Frankenstein as the projects snowballed 😂

On some actuator arms you can just turn the arm and wind it into the diaphragm to shorten it . Just be careful, as if it isn't the wind in type you might damage it ,so look for threads on the arm close to the actuator. Seeing as the wastegate end had to be drilled , are you sure the hot side or wastegate penny is the same size ? Might explain the overboost while using the same core and actuator.

There's a lot of braided pipework from the catch can set up that's just laying in the bay unconnected, so that probably makes it look a bit more busy . As I want to fit the fuel rails first ,then plumb the catch can set up back in and possibly relocate it at the front. I still haven't tried to fit the new loom yet but hope that I'll be able to feed that in and fit that afterwards , too . Still lots to do but at least I've started doing something again