savage bulldogs

Im not that clued up on newage spec espically the rarer models but a pic of the rear 1/4 should tell , as i think the widetrack have a extra swage line on the rear arches . Where did you get your quote from ? I could probably recommend a couple of places near Ipswich to try

Definitely pushed the wheel back so unsure if youve just snapped a wishbone or bent its mounting points/chassis. Either way £10 k sounds very steep to me . Not knowing if yours is a widetrack ? If its standard sti set up I'd imagine you could get the all parts off a breaker for under £1k then, with fitting and paintwork be looking at £5k ish maximum. But the only thing i know for definite is that the Suffolk roads are shocking [emoji6]

A local breakers has a second hand sc46 up for sale for £900 Think alyn charges about £1k to close deck and machine a block ready to assemble [emoji6]

Think you used to be able too buy a bluetooth odb2 adapter off ebay and download a app for your smartphone (torque app i think) That reads ecu codes. Hopefully one of the newage boys might be able to confirm if its still available and works on your model . As the ecu might be cutting boost for a different reason , so knowing if its storing any codes would be a good idea before booking in a expensive mapping session.

Could try the likes of Matt at m.b developments you can find him on f.b

What year and model is it bud ? Do you mean its got a decat downpipe ? Has it been mapped , cos if not its probably overboost causing limp mode , due to the extra air from the intake and less restrictive downpipe

Holy thread resurrection [emoji23]🤣 I thought that was Geoff's job anyways [emoji848]

Where was that bit of oily shrapnel from then, fella ? Are you gonna drop arp's and forged pistons in while its split

Luckily I'd pulled the engine before the beast from the east dropped a blanket of snow in suffolk. Having another scooby came in handy , as the snow didn't stop me dropping the block halves off at pat segars (my trusty engineer) [emoji4] I'd originally planned to leave the heads in one piece, due to them being quiet and the engine not smoking , so valve stem seals and seats were ok . But the urge to fully refresh the engine took over and I've decided to (at least) re seat the valves and fit new stem seals [emoji4] They'll also go to the engineers for a pressure test and a general check over once i collect the block halves [emoji6]

Ok so the v1sti spat its dummy out Saturday afternoon and wouldn't start (just cranks over ) [emoji53] So I spent Saturday evening and most of sunday crawling over the car with a multi meter trying to find out why the fuel pump wouldn't prime [emoji848] Got home yesterday and just walked past it , as i was pretty miffed i own 2 scoobs and neither of them work [emoji34] Get home early today in the right frame of mind to find the fault ..... Started on the button [emoji4] The logical conclusion is that some moisture got in somewhere during the big thaw and its dried out [emoji6] The scooby fanatic side of me has put it down to the v1sti doesn't like me spending my "scooby time" all on the bug and got jealous [emoji23]🤣 Either way she's running fine now [emoji41]

As said above check the battery and engine earths / starter motor live are clean and making a good connection. In the early imprezas they have a "fuesable link " in the under bonnet fuse box , its basically a 30amp bit of wire with a spade connection on either end . This is the main "cranking" fuse , so if yours has 1 , it might also be worth checking too If all else fails halfords sometimes does a free winter battery check , they might stumble across the fault and at least you might be able to rule out the battery (if the test is ok ) [emoji6]

Once I'd split the block and removed the crank the cause of the rumble was plain to see ,fubar'd main bearings . Although the bearings had taken the wear and the crank measures up ok , i won't be taking any chances and will be fitting a brand new crank [emoji6]

You had to remove the access bungs to get to the wrist pin clips , take the outter clips off the wrist pins ,then use something long (que bbq skewers [emoji4]) to tap the wrist pin out from the other side . As the bottom of the bores have "webs" which mean the pistons have to be disconnected from the rods in order to split the block halves to get to the crank [emoji6]

Unfortunately the undertray was in the boot of the bug when i bought it , so can't help with what type of fasteners are needed . I'm sure a call to luke at import car parts would solve the mystery though , there's not much he doesn't stock tbh

Front n rear crank seals . Spigot bearing. Cam cover gaskets . Spark plugs. Maybe fit a group n sump gasket and possibly a sump baffle (if you intend on doing a track day)

Dug the scoob out of the snow , so i could get in it ,chucked the bug sti block in the boot and drove to the engineers and back grinning at the beemers going backwards downhills

Once I'd removed the rcm lightweight flywheel i could see the oil leak (i mentioned earlier) was coming from the rear crank seal. It had obviously been leaking for a while . It doesn't make sense to me why it wasn't replaced (or at least cleaned) prior to flitting the new clutch [emoji848] Good possibility that the leak being so close to the rear crank journal would cause a dip in oil pressure or oil level at some point . Which might have starved the main bearings of oil and caused the crank rumble in the first place . Cleaned the back of the block , took the sump off and spotted my first bit of fubar'd bearings stuck to the side of the oil pickup

Once both heads were off, i removed the new graham goode oil pump and water pump

With the cams , pulleys and avcs solenoids out you can finally get to the head bolts and remove the heads . Its a semi closed deck block and the bores are in that good a condition that you can still see the original hone marks . Not that a visual check is enough to ok the bores but its good to see that it was obviously the original 77k fsh lump [emoji41]

Locked the flywheel to remove the crank pulley and center cam belt cover , which shows the new full belt kit , water pump and uprated oil pump [emoji41] Unfortunately, i forgot to take a pic of the cambelt locking tool you need to lock the left bank pulleys to remove the belt without letting the left bank pulleys move . Once the belt was off i removed the 4 cam pulleys and the cam covers to expose the cams .

Hope so bud , i hate not having boost n burble in my life [emoji53] . I've got 5 people intrested in the bug already and i haven't even got the block to the engineers yet . Best pull my finger out [emoji23]🤣

You'd need to swap the water crossover pipe and keep your auxiliaries. id chuck some plugs and cam cover gaskets in while the lumps out, as its much eaiser to do then

Think most version wrx's, uk turbos ect share the same cams and only sti's have the high lift cams afaik

I dare say its posible to fit a complete v3/v4 engine into a v1 the main issues would be ..... Tps plugs are different v1 has 4 wires v3 has 3 wires but i run a v3 throttle body and tps on my v1 (so can be done with a bit of splicing) V1 and v3 throttle cable pull the butterfly from the oppersite sides . So you'd need a v3 throttle cable V3 runs a single coilpack v1 runs 4 coilpacks. So you'd probably be better off using the v1 engine loom to operate the original coilpacks . It would be more straightforward using your inlet manifold watercrossover pipe and auxiliaries on the v3 long engine but most other v3 sensors will plug into your v1 engine loom You can run front entry turbos on a v1/v2 by using a silicone elbow ,

Once the engines fitted and run in , take it to attowes and get the map tweeked /dyno health check . take it to a few shows early summer and work on the v1sti's whilst its off the road . When i sell it probably depends on if someone offers me the right money , to cover the car , build parts and my time .