savage bulldogs

What sort of area are you in @damien e? A member might be able to recommend a local trusted Subaru specialist 🤞 tbh the price does sound expensive but considering the amount of labour to remove the engine , both heads ,strip ,machine, re assembly, refitting and parts .... Unfortunately it's no small task due to the boxer layout. I would add that seeing as its overheated a few times and the h.g has been gone a while .... unfortunately it can add extra strain on rings and pinch the bearings, so a full rebuild might be the better option anyways 😥

Unusual body kit does make it difficult to put a price on it ,due to not having anything to compare it too . Stock 94 WRX's are up for sale between £3k to £8k pending on rust and general condition ,no idea what sort of price they are actually selling at though tbh . Think condition underneath and mechanically, have a big bearing on the price of a 27 year old car . Some look tidy on top but are a sea of brown underneath 😥 Sorry I couldn't be much help but it's a unusual car

Only way to really tell is to either trace where the wire goes or check what pins on the ECU they're connected to . Otherwise it's a bit of a guessing game of what aftermarket gauge,sensor ,alarm ect attaches to the ECU.

Heads skim fine and very rarely have any issues (no cracking or warping) .So heads just require a de grease ,face check/skim ,valves lapped in ,valve clearances checked and reassembled with new stem seals to refurbish them. H.g don't often leak outside the block , if they go they normally leak combustion gasses into the coolant instead . Most h.g failures are on the 2.5 ej or stock 2ltrs running higher boost levels . If you're going to strip and rebuild the block stock parts/gaskets are fine but you could upgrade the h.g to "stopper headgaskets " (rcm or cossie) just for piece of mind . If you intend on dropping the engine back in "as is" and rebuild at a later date ? Then get them to change both cam cover gaskets and half moons , as they do tend to get brittle and weap with the engine heat cycles . Also rear crank seal and check clutch condition, yet again makes sense to do this while engine is out too .

a second hand carpet from a breakers would be much cheaper than new subaru . I'm not that clued up on hatch spec but bug/blob sti have a different colour carpet , so there might be the same for hatch (if you fancy a change )

Think martin at Sheffield subaru services is fairly close and a few members use him with good feedback 👍

Coming along nicely, looking quite clean for a uk car too . If the car is a investment (ie you're hoping it will go up in value then sell),it would probably hold its value better with the stock block refreshed at some point when needed . If you intend on lightly modifying it the classic 5 speed is only rated to around 320hp (safely) and the stock block will run the same levels . If you intend on aiming higher than that then I'd say get a 2.1 built and save for a stronger 6 speed . Then it would be the engine deck type,internals and budget that would be the limiting factor for hp target .

Your welcome to post it in the forsale section, might be some use to someone wanting to do a rebuild and save on down time

If it's not been started for a few years ,I'd recommend at least a oil change and ideally checking the cambelt condition before trying to start it . make sure you pull the crank sensor off (so it doesn't start ) and spin the engine over to prime the oil system before first start up . Plug crank sensor back in , cross your fingers and see if it starts . If it's just the bootlid that's corroded any 92 to 99 will fit , so it's just the case of finding one with the same colour code . As for pumps any classic 92 to 99 pump will fit into the in tank fuel pump cradle . Yet again if it's been sitting years , drain the tank ,put some fresh 99 ron in , change pump and fuel filter before starting. Best of luck n keep us posted

I'd say the only stock bottom ends that are worth anything extra are 2.2 cdb ,2ltr cdb ,ej207 scd ,2ltr scd and 2.5 scd . The rest are pretty much the same sort of value

It's got a v3 onward cam belt tensioner, open deck with stock pistons . The piston crown type with the "hb" markings might help you narrow it down . As most engines I've seen have the hb markings underneath ,not on the compression side of the crown . Whv do you need to identify it ,bud ?

The type ra forums have a vin decoder , might be worth a look on there . Not sure if you have to be a paid member to use it or whether it only decodes just jdm vin/model code numbers though

Loving that reversed inlet😍 nice big plenum in the middle to keep the boost in during gear changes 😎

Used to own a 1.850cc dolly with twin su's, fun little car that went well 😎 Had a bit of snow in Suffolk too but not enough for skiddy snow scooby shenanigans 😏. Project is coming along well , keep it up 👍

Always nice to see another v1 , some pics would be nice 😉 Ally bonnet and front wishbones were factory fitted on all jdm v1's , the uk /euro spec had steel ones . What sort of info are you after ? The early imprezas are starting to go up fairly quickly atm , due to being eligible for U.S import laws (25yrs old+) . So if you eventually intend on selling it ,keep it as original as possible to retain a higher resale value 😉

The black badge would be off a uk euro car , have you tried the likes of import car parts . If subaru still make them ,they can probably order one in

Hi n welcome, any plans for the car or just maintain and enjoy ?

Wide body generally means its had aftermarket rear 1/4 panels ,front wings and wider n rear bumpers fitted . Think it was only really the 22b that has a genuine factory wide body, although late blobeye / hawk do a "widetrack" version . I think hatch sti might have bigger arches but not 100% sure if that's just front wings or rear 1/4's too .

I used to use AFM a sub company at Ipswich accident repair , it's run by rick Kerry (ex touring car driver ) . They'll normally do a decent job but a mate did it this time during his lunch break, as he works for a body shop. There might be somewhere closer to you that's got a good rep , think I've got my set up geo numbers and you could give them to someone closer ? I dare say with your set up you should see around 320 to 330 hp , once attowe has done his bit 😊

Hi n welcome, there's a few uk legacy members on here , as we often go to santa pod shows together . Hopefully one of them will spot this and let the uk legacy moderators know

I've only got 1st hand experience with driving earlier gc8's and a bugeye , both of their drivetrains seemed a bit whiny and I put it down to the scooby awd system. No idea if the later versions are as noisy but if it hasn't got a recent gearbox and diff oil changes in the service history? You could try refreshing both box and diff oils with a decent brand oil , to see if it helps with noise levels .

If it's just temperature that seems cause it could it be the fob battery? Otherwise damp air causing a contact or circuit problem. I had a problematic cobra alarm system fitted to my 94 sti , had a mobile alarm fitter fit a thatcham category alarm for just under £300 . Not sure if the later models are as easy to remove the existing imobilizer and replace though

Hi n welcome, type r's have shot up in value in the last few years . Good luck with the hunt and let us know if you find what you're after

She's certainly sitting lower now 😊 Have you had a 4 wheel alignment done , yet ? If you need a fast road geo set up the one I'm running seems ok and doesn't seem to scrub the tyres . Best of luck at attowes, bud 🤞

Scoobies tend to push combustion gasses into the coolant if a headgasket goes,i don't think I've ever seen one mix coolant and oil before (like most other engines do ) The usual sign is after using boost the coolant will bubble and spit out of the expansion bottle, due to combustion gasses squeezing past the h.g and pressurising the coolant system. When you burp the coolant and it works ok do you have to top up the coolant or just burp it ? If you have to top it up evertime , it's either burning or leaking coolant . So check for tell tale "furry coolant coloured " bits around the coolant system in the bay (to indicate leaking) Or whip the spark plugs out and check their colour , as you should be able to tell if its excessively burning coolant by their colour too . Failing that get a garage to do a sniff test for combustion gasses in the coolant. If theres some in there its definitely a headgasket issue unfortunately