Mr B

Main issue is will you like auto ! I think you going have drive one and conclude that yourself . 150K plus is what I class as upper limit buying used, pending on use and quality of care they can be A1 beyond that but wear and tear niggles will occur higher the miles and harder the use and you likely incur more minor faults/repairs on higher mileage examples, having said that most very low mileage cars can be garbage as short journeys in rough roads wear them out quicker so don't go crazy chasing ultra low mileage cars . All you got do is conclude you like auto box and make proper effort buy cleanest example you can find and don't be afraid over pay a little for proper clean example as it will pay you back 10x over . I will say from my experience cleanest examples I find always tend be automatics and also auto prices not as high as a manual for turbo model . Turbo engine and auto box can have more expensive faults over non turbo and manual transmission so be thorough and be prepared have spend on at least one fault get it A1 . Just be diligent and if not 100% happy walk away, plenty 04 to 06 XT models available if willing travel and can wait 3 or 4 months for right one crop up . Good time of year see them cropping up too . Once you get one and happy with it look into quality underbody coatings like lanolin based products and good quality cavity wax for inner arch front c frame and sills . Keep on top of underbody protection from day 1 on a clean base car and you get 20 to 30 years out them . Hope you sort one out and fall in love all over again 🙂 ....

set of winter tyres and rims is best result, some all seasons not bad but in many cases it a mix of trying be good at it all resulting in not very good at any conditions . Not biggest fan of bridgestone, think they could of done lot better for forester vx and outback odels for uk climate and vehicles likely usage .

unfortunately battery swapping is just a band aid covering poor electrical engineering choices on sleep mode activity and parasitic draw values . I can see same dilemma in 6 to 8 years as the diesel issues which is off to scrap for 300 quid as no repair solution at acceptable cost and owners fed up/bankrupt from constant issues and diagnostic bills .

if goes away in neutral it gearbox output side, could be low oil and lets hope it is but also highly likely be shaft bearing .

What was failing first, bottom end or turbo, is just as likely bottom end bearing debris effected turbo. The reality is if you want hassle free cheap motoring stay away from subaru diesel and any modern dpf diesel as they all garbage due to the emission equipment that an engineering joke and environmental disaster . The EZ20 diesels are extra garbage due to crank failure and bottom end bearing issues . Used engines are so expensive as demand far exceeds supply due to fact they all will fail terminally due to crank issues that not really been fully resolved . We get loads of 2008 to 2013 dead diesels and 99% of them are scrap at 300 to 500 quid value as no way owners going front the repair cost and we can't put much guarantee on engines due to known issue with cranks, injector learning and dpf issues that not really fixable without re-engineering at mechanical and software levels . . Had quite a few dragged on the flat bed and off to the crusher from my yard. Is absolute disgrace to owners who bought this expensive garbage and bigger disgrace to the planet that got absorb all the waste created from constant repair parts and service chemicals make it work to mot emission standard and then crushing of the junk 😞 If you could see the chemical waste and part waste from my garage for modern dpf diesels compared to older cars you would realise they exact opposite of environmental benefit . Even I myself could not buy them at scrap value and repair for resale without financial loss . As it already been messed with it hard trace exactly what happened and a teardown would be a full strip hot tank and rebuild and I probably want use newest crank revision in rebuild cover myself and you from more grief . Ideally oil and oil filter should of been examined for debris before new turbo ordered let alone fitted . about best case scenario for professional effort from someone who actually knows what they doing on EZ20 rebuild and making effort build it right is likely 4.5K . you could cut some corners and probably come under 2.5K if your internals turn out in tolerance & serviceable condition but you could be back to square one within months as these engines fail so easily . The problem also is anyone who knows what they doing and got a lot of work flow don't really want touch them thus quotes are high as only do it if good earner ...

headlight height level sensor link Can buy oem or universal arms that you cut to length .

^ should be an easy low cost fix then. Use the image in post above which subaru service manual data to measure your before and after heights . Drive a few days before do final height measures .

Not a shock I recall dealing with, looks about right length in images . Do you know the springs you got . SLS springs have roughly 12.5mm thick coils , light duty springs 13.5mm and the RA6028 are 14.5mm rust and coatings differ measures fractionally but if you measure under 13mm you can be pretty sure it sls springs and if under 14mm light duty springs and benefit from RA6028 . Lot of the cheap and even known brand springs are not great spec and can be slightly short or lose height in couple weeks of use . Only ones we genererally use are KYB springcoil custom springs or oem and perhaps kilen suplex when needs must .

^ Sounds like a plan I have seen some of the cheap off brand eBay struts turn out short as the spring perch sits lower than should . most of the time it down to people using the wrong springs (new SLS springs as if part match via vehicle reg/vin that what computer show correct part) or reusing the old SLS springs . If you like saving money do not buy any cheap brand suspension parts because they are all garbage either in fitment/spec or durability .

20% off the KYB struts via carpartsinmotion on eBay until May 7 (PRICEWINS) bargain at £46 for made in japan part . I'll be making most of it put some common decent preferred quality parts in stock and maybe a few carlyle tools .

Get the Japan made kyb excel G shocks and the matching non sls RA6028 springs and you done proper for under £200 . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323874493110?epid=248894226&hash=item4b686c92b6:g:XXsAAOSw0eNdQ~n5 If you used original springs that why it still sags and if replacement springs sls spec then it still sags. Hard beat KYB and the shocks and springs as listed in this thread are proper non SLS spec that give ride height in service spec range . What shocks did you use ? is likely just the RA6028 springs on shocks you got will give correct height . Pedders are decent enough but they overpriced and companies are milking fact most people clueless and assume it hard get other normal options which isn't the case .

^ standard model arms are the same length and part numbers , I done a few forester impreza and legacy and lateral links cross between lot of them . best way see what same is look it up in the subaru parts list as it shows all other models that use the part . Later lateral links with ball joint drop links differ and wide track differs .

Forester SF rear lateral arms are same parts that can be found on G10 G11 body code impreza and B11 legacy, no length difference .

They bit spendy, price back in day out of extras brochure was £120 . Is one of those things that should of been on vehicle from factory . You may get lucky and find used one although normally not in good shape and adhesive tape is strong so generally damaged a bit in removal . You may find some of the universal rubber bumper protectors do you but the oem one is proper nice so worth keep looking as may find a better price if keep looking .

Yes, short shoulder is basically not correct description. you basically got 2 types shouldered or non shouldered and both types available in long or short thread lengths . Exact match and good quality is a must on fittings, pipe and tooling . I don't like copper pipe , copper/nickel is a better product and all i will use. lot of garages still use copper line but mainly as super easy/forgiving bend flare but it not long term durable and does work harden/crack .

they both shouldered same, 1 is long thread other is short thread. other types are shouldered and no shoulder. Is critical buy exact match to original when fittings going into original spec parts . I've seen a few horrid repairs with wrong fittings catching by couple threads at most and risking peoples lives, some of those jobs done in licenced garages which even worse ...

last ones i got was via ebay and usa, had 5 of them which worked out around 45 each but that before 2021 import duty crackdown . around 70 at moment . US ones are quite nice as Forester branded rather than Subaru which nice touch . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143740937280 they hard find these days and most dealers not able source or priced silly (over 100) is a german or polish company that do stainless ones but you get hit on higher shipping and duty on those now too ...

Yes, if you look at your used assembly for reference you see motor attached by three #3 JIC cross head machine screws . Undo those with care and tips from main post and job jobbed in no time . Take care with the door trim card and the moisture sheet and butyl adhesive . some people make a pigs ear of it and looks like a wild bear or hypo child has vandalised it ... I would of advised against getting used drivers as they likely well used and have some water ingress in motor, back door motors or earlier cast alloy motors are best used buy . the early cast alloy motors with bolt flange pressed steel cover seem faultless, we hardly ever touch them, most 25 year old vehicles have originals and seem likely good for 30 years plus . switches are way more durable on early models too . Well quite a lot was better and it really shows up when compare the parts and compare common jobs we do across model generations . Quite simply the newer the car gets the more trips it makes to the garage and the owners credit card needs a better limit 🙂

Perhaps look and see if the black button top part with the silver trim can be unclipped and fitted to original switch assembly . Button top locates on 2 plastic lugs and older style ones could be removed fairly easily .

Yes it seems normal for the US version to have auto mode for both fronts . The extra auto mode should not really be an issue as that internal difference to the switch . socket fitting is a good thing, is the pin position and number of pins same between the US and your switch . If pin position and count exactly same it is indeed just a case of change some wires around in the plug on the wiring harness in the door . What the part number of your original switch unit ? From what I seen of JDM and RHD models from Thailand Singapore, Malaysia, Australia and UK they normally same or interchangeable parts . USA not so much as LHD, different vehicle lighting regulations, emission regulations and a lot of parts specific and made more regional . I will look on my online service manuals for RHD wiring diagram maybe Monday if open up shop (Easter holidays here) The Subaru wiring diagrams are quite poor but hopefully you have right idea & it be easy alteration of wiring position get it working .

Is this the drivers main control panel switches ? US version quite different as LHD and 2017 has different connection sockets as well I suspect ! . Does the US version you purchased have auto mode for both front windows or just drivers window And your original switch, is that auto mode for just drivers window same as european RHD . image below of euro RHD Drivers switch panel If your original switch same button layout and wiring sockets same layout and pin count I may have wiring diagram but suspect it be easier and maybe cheaper long term source correct RHD switch panel .

worse case is nasty court hearing and fine and car in a crusher . Done right it hard for MOT inspector know but MOT test changes are likely in emission equipment unfortunately DPF and EGR systems are such a poor concept huge amount have bypassed them and that made a lot of companies unhappy, they want your money, no real care about pollution that just an excuse to sell lesser quality and engineer systems that cost you more money maintain and more garbage for landfill . About time consumers got wise and stopped buying new junk ...

old is gold. you far better off in terms of durability & reliability with older models . dealer warranties never a sure thing as only as useful as their technical diligence and willingness to do the right thing and if you don't have recommendations or have experience with the dealer you won't know what support you likely get (and they be charging you plenty for it in the price). I would never recommend buying anything from dealers without test drive and at least 2 decent thorough inspections . Also if you have not viewed a few of them you really won't have a clue on a good one or bad one as you learn the more you look at . One of reasons we had more work during covid is owners been keeping vehicles rather than changing, you been best waiting for restrictions lift which to be honest is only weeks away .

What year outback ? Do you have 4 digit pin code for alarm ?

If you wedge a cut down bottle or funnel on end of handle it amplifies the sounds much cleaner and don't need poke it in your ear . Rod knock pretty easy recognise once heard a few, tends be most audible if rev to 2k and quickly lift off . Very minimal rod knock can be hard concluded 100% .