Mr B

Check the front brake clearance. !6" probably best either off forester or outback, used sets on eBay normally pretty reasonable .

Just use non SLS springs with the non SLS rear shocks and you good to go, simple as that if needed .

Just for anyone who references this, the RA6028 is KYB heavy duty springs for the forester SG, not a specific set for the XT model. Closet for XT in KYB is RC6431, only difference is 10mm ride height roughly . The heavy duty ideal for those towing or loading heavy

It not so much tech advance but manufacture engineering has been honed to make the items just durable enough for shorter expected lifespan. Throw in canbus and electronic modules for just about everything with minimal durability and you got a lot of expensive faults/junk 6 years down the road . I see it everyday comparing 15 to 20+yr old cars to new . Good example is window motors, take the late 90's subaru window motors and compare with ones from early 2000 onwards. One cast alloy housing with bolt on cover plate with gasket other cheap plastic with push on butyl sealed cover and getting more flimsy newer you go, guess which one fills with water and common failures lol . We don't see many niggly stupid faults or much expensive mot issues on the older cars, newer stuff is constant ballache and some silly prices to fix silly little faults that quite simply shouldn't be happening ... Common mot issues on newer models is suspension bushes as design and rubber quality reduced, emission issues and lighting/horn/airbag linked to canbus/module or wiring issues all basically due to poor manufacturer quality . everything like it unfortunately, not just cars, can't even make decent loaf of bread these days :-/ You have to be insane to buy a brand new car and got be insanely picky on buying your bread lol, what a amazing modern world !

That is a problem with the so called greener aircon gasses ! Impact damage is 100% recognisable, I would concur your dealer trying avoid doing anything warranty based as probably getting hassle getting subaru credit them on the jobs .

I seen couple locally this year but both pretty much beyond worthwhile repair . Expect anything proper tidy with decent welding work be way over 2K . burns some serious money/time doing body repairs to high standard .

Yeh few come up on eBay but rare but a finished road ready option, they were rust buckets and got used hard thanks to the 4wd . I got an old L series station wagon 1.8 turbo, runs okay and trim pretty tidy but sills and floor pan and rear arch wells needs some major fabrication work, luckily doors and wings pretty good

Yeh obvious it power feed or ground issue to starter . The clicking is solenoid activating then starter wants huge supply of current but can't get it and solenoid effected from power draw and cycle commences of solenoid clicking on and off. jump cable oldest low tech trick in the book, you can diagnose these in 2 minutes with a multimeter with a voltage drop test (you must test circuits when in use/loaded) plenty info and vids on voltage drop testing starter wiring for those who want have a try . glad job jobbed lesson learn here is don't swap parts, learn how test things first .

Generally if battery good high resistance (terminal corrosion, bad wire ect) in 12V supply cable or the ground causes symptoms you got . If you got a multimeter and know how perform voltage drop tests you likely find issue pretty quick. A quick option is using jump cable as direct ground from battery to starter and can do same for + side too if ground makes no difference .

As above, this same for the 2.5XT. Take your time buying a tidy well maintained 05 car and you laughing £225 a year saved just because car few months newer is worth it imo. I actually have 2 foresters 1999 & 2000 and they 255 a year which enough imo for driving on pot hole gravel tracks they call public roads ...

Is it a main dealer or just a used car dealer ? Things that need clarifying calmly with dealer/garage is : If this radio has worked at some point in your ownership then it was paired/programmed so that not the root cause . Have/can they confirm the head unit serial matches what stored in the security module . any other codes present when they scan system that could hint a communication issue between the cars modules . any other odd occurrences with any of the electrical systems . What is their next step in resolving the problem (good thing is problem constant and they clearly see the problem which far better than intermittent faults) If you dealing with a main dealer and they getting nowhere they either need try another known good head unit or get another dealer/garage with more experienced tech have a look .

they will know how program a radio unit serial into the security module via ssm subaru select monitor no doubt about it, I would assume issue more puzzling hence the lack of clarity and time . could have communication issue on the can bus line or issue with the radio unit . First thing I try on these after basic scan see modules are talking to each other and noting any codes is disconnect battery for an hour then reconnect and turn ignition to acc and see what radio does, does it boot up fully, if does turn key off and remove then reinsert and go to acc again and wait radio reboot and if reboots and works then start car and see if security flags again .

Your best bet on springs if carrying loaded weight and towing is custom set from springcoil.co.uk . They got lot of experience on rears for the SG and would give you good advise and solutions to your needs, they do increased rates, progressive springs and can adjust base height a little like for example raise rear 10mm help compensate for some load, that probably £60 more than the KYB spring set but can be wise thing do for those using vehicle loaded/towing . Ride should be quite good as you gain fair bit of improvement from new excel g's over half dead oems . All ones I done been nice ride, even XT models on kyb and springcoil full spring kits front and rear . on a side note If you need new bump stops and protection boots kyb do rear kit (2boots, 2 bump stops) for less than £20

Yeh it affordable and better than peddars units imo and expect struggle find a used set for the sg . good luck ...

You can buy new kyb excel G shocks and springs for around £185 shocks are £53 on ebay (cheaper than on my trade account), springs about £76 if google the part number . Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431

if you got air then proper long barrel is a game changer, makes the impossible not only possible but quick & easy and less damaging over clumping stuff with large lump hammer ect ... facom nano impact and air hammer 2 tools i couldn't be without, pretty cheap too both under £100, facom was at £99, decent air hammer start around £80 ...

Trick on these is a long barrel air hammer . Take all bolts out and try get it rotate a little using bolt hole ears for hammering . Once moves a little swap to a chisel bit in the air hammer to work it out . They can be a right c0(k without the air hammer .

I assume the menu function allows different pressures and different sensors be selected so can sap to a winter tyre set for example . No real reset or programming available without plugin equipment .

Not exactly a diy reset, system status resets based on ecu logic of values correct from sensors while vehicle in motion (sensors awake) . If no faults and pressures correct then system should correct status after a drive cycle, if not tpms sensor could be faulty or system itself and scan tool with tpms or dedicated tpms tool needed go further (tpms sensors are coded to control module) . Some no special tool tricks to overcome some faults are deflate and reflate tyre to help a sticky sensor, disconnect car battery and see if tpms status stays off .

Assume it the sigma alarm . Does key start car if turn off alarm with spare key (keep spare key away from ignition switch when test this). If does start the skim key chip fine and it purely issue with the remote board in the key head or like you thinking it lost programming . You can attempt reprogramming yourself but first thing is make sure you have a working manual pin code and if not set a new 4 pin code first before trying reprogram keys *reason do this is so got way access alarm if cocked up programming * If you search on here for sigma key fob programming you find instructions from myself and others . Also worth having close look at keyfob as button switch often breaks off the circuit board, is online repair services or buy a used keyfob off eBay and swap it to yours and program it to your alarm .

Is a lot of kits remove broken plugs but don't always work well unless plug cooperates in way broken or during removal work steps . Best way is taking lot of time to not break them and using low power impact as vibrations can help loosen stuck plug without twisting head off . I would go down and get full details from garage and ask what kit they got for broken removal and what technique used remove them (ie: did they try engine hot/cold. did they try light impact tool, did they soak with release agent overnight ect) . Is lot of labour time when goes bad unfortunately but if this a learning experience for your garage you don't want be paying the full 1500 .

Not usual but possible in worse case scenario. I would assume your garage got little experience or kit for removing broken heater plug thus made bigger job of it. Are the stripping engine further or planning drill/pull it out . ceramic antiseize paste and lower end of torque can help for future but best bet is make it a service item - removal and refit every 2yrs and replace after 4 or 6yrs .

Import your best option, chances of anything restorable UK very unlikely and most stuff more rot than shell plus likely need many parts almost impossible source .

I would consider the eyesight system good reason not to buy one, too invasive and makes drivers less aware than already are as start to rely on prompts from the system. Other big issue with these systems is faults will be expensive diagnose/fix and potentially dangerous .

If you want be stingy at least inspect each idler gear and the tensioner when strip it and buy what only needed, one that more likely usable is tensioner but the plain idlers and toothed normally have some play or dryness or both. Water pump wants checking too but rare these really need replacing at 90K for a NA road car . I know many insist tensioner must be replaced but actual Subaru guidelines is testing it in spec, obviously if bearing rough or it leaking oil on hydraulic tensioner or it fail the load testing (see SFSM) then needs replacing. With timing belts you almost better off not doing it if not going do it well as bad decisions and work = potential scrap . Dayco belt and japan oem idlers from ICP not that expensive . Whatever you do DO NOT use cheaper sourced parts as that worse than running with old oem .