Mr B

Really wouldn't bother with that halfords stuff, better off with likes of toptul premier and picking best of lines from likes of welzh werkzueg, britool halmark ect . By the rules you do need a receipt and they don't cover moving parts in the terms so can be bother if staff not helpful . Life warranty generally not worth a lot on basic hand tools, companies drop line or kicking out crap by time you need an exchange .

quality pistons but pay attention to comp ratio with the group n spec as offsets piston 1mm up bore over standard .

ADS74223 ! compare visually and measures length/width length 110.4mm width 37.5 thickness 13.8

Only thing happen as turbo working near it's max is efficiency down thus charge temps higher with low density . If charge temps was ridiculously high you will have det and piston issues pretty fast . Exactly when your overheat occur, always under heavy throttle and boost, cruising, in traffic ??? You best just being super thorough with hunting leaks, fitting new stat, testing flow and system pressure holding and if can't find fault give it little time until can . Plug colours/deposits give you good idea on how it running and differing look indicates potential likely cylinder with issue/linked to issue . Will need a trained eye unless severe plug colouration/deposits . 3 things I see most for overheating is airlocks/small leaks and 'new' low quality thermostats and head gaskets, on the 2.5 roughly 8 out of 10 seem conclude as head gaskets .

As stated few times headgasket tests means very little on these . Thermostat wants checking for function and if decide replace it get oem or top quality as cheaper ones probably worse than old . Want check radiator flow and cooling flow in general . Want be sure coolant system got no leaks and holds pressure correctly . My suspicion is early stage HG issue but could never diagnose it to a customer without more evidence .

That good, normally is bent switch after garage been working in engine bay, we had a few in after been a halfords garage or mot ect . I would assume 6th gear not related to them working on car, seems highly unlikely it would be to me ...

Doesn't show bonnet on dash, from your test sounds fairly unlikely it switch which shame . Wondering if some wiring point been stressed during work they done and the alarm and gear indicator fault all part of it ! Would be wise talk with garage and do good visual inspection on all wiring/electrical in areas they been working .

I would imagine garage mechanic bent/moved the bonnet sensor switch when working in engine bay, the beeps are warning a door boot or bonnet ajar . I would guess gear indication separate issue and probably not related !

Check the front brake clearance. !6" probably best either off forester or outback, used sets on eBay normally pretty reasonable .

Just use non SLS springs with the non SLS rear shocks and you good to go, simple as that if needed .

Just for anyone who references this, the RA6028 is KYB heavy duty springs for the forester SG, not a specific set for the XT model. Closet for XT in KYB is RC6431, only difference is 10mm ride height roughly . The heavy duty ideal for those towing or loading heavy

It not so much tech advance but manufacture engineering has been honed to make the items just durable enough for shorter expected lifespan. Throw in canbus and electronic modules for just about everything with minimal durability and you got a lot of expensive faults/junk 6 years down the road . I see it everyday comparing 15 to 20+yr old cars to new . Good example is window motors, take the late 90's subaru window motors and compare with ones from early 2000 onwards. One cast alloy housing with bolt on cover plate with gasket other cheap plastic with push on butyl sealed cover and getting more flimsy newer you go, guess which one fills with water and common failures lol . We don't see many niggly stupid faults or much expensive mot issues on the older cars, newer stuff is constant ballache and some silly prices to fix silly little faults that quite simply shouldn't be happening ... Common mot issues on newer models is suspension bushes as design and rubber quality reduced, emission issues and lighting/horn/airbag linked to canbus/module or wiring issues all basically due to poor manufacturer quality . everything like it unfortunately, not just cars, can't even make decent loaf of bread these days :-/ You have to be insane to buy a brand new car and got be insanely picky on buying your bread lol, what a amazing modern world !

That is a problem with the so called greener aircon gasses ! Impact damage is 100% recognisable, I would concur your dealer trying avoid doing anything warranty based as probably getting hassle getting subaru credit them on the jobs .

I seen couple locally this year but both pretty much beyond worthwhile repair . Expect anything proper tidy with decent welding work be way over 2K . burns some serious money/time doing body repairs to high standard .

Yeh few come up on eBay but rare but a finished road ready option, they were rust buckets and got used hard thanks to the 4wd . I got an old L series station wagon 1.8 turbo, runs okay and trim pretty tidy but sills and floor pan and rear arch wells needs some major fabrication work, luckily doors and wings pretty good

Yeh obvious it power feed or ground issue to starter . The clicking is solenoid activating then starter wants huge supply of current but can't get it and solenoid effected from power draw and cycle commences of solenoid clicking on and off. jump cable oldest low tech trick in the book, you can diagnose these in 2 minutes with a multimeter with a voltage drop test (you must test circuits when in use/loaded) plenty info and vids on voltage drop testing starter wiring for those who want have a try . glad job jobbed lesson learn here is don't swap parts, learn how test things first .

Generally if battery good high resistance (terminal corrosion, bad wire ect) in 12V supply cable or the ground causes symptoms you got . If you got a multimeter and know how perform voltage drop tests you likely find issue pretty quick. A quick option is using jump cable as direct ground from battery to starter and can do same for + side too if ground makes no difference .

As above, this same for the 2.5XT. Take your time buying a tidy well maintained 05 car and you laughing £225 a year saved just because car few months newer is worth it imo. I actually have 2 foresters 1999 & 2000 and they 255 a year which enough imo for driving on pot hole gravel tracks they call public roads ...

Is it a main dealer or just a used car dealer ? Things that need clarifying calmly with dealer/garage is : If this radio has worked at some point in your ownership then it was paired/programmed so that not the root cause . Have/can they confirm the head unit serial matches what stored in the security module . any other codes present when they scan system that could hint a communication issue between the cars modules . any other odd occurrences with any of the electrical systems . What is their next step in resolving the problem (good thing is problem constant and they clearly see the problem which far better than intermittent faults) If you dealing with a main dealer and they getting nowhere they either need try another known good head unit or get another dealer/garage with more experienced tech have a look .

they will know how program a radio unit serial into the security module via ssm subaru select monitor no doubt about it, I would assume issue more puzzling hence the lack of clarity and time . could have communication issue on the can bus line or issue with the radio unit . First thing I try on these after basic scan see modules are talking to each other and noting any codes is disconnect battery for an hour then reconnect and turn ignition to acc and see what radio does, does it boot up fully, if does turn key off and remove then reinsert and go to acc again and wait radio reboot and if reboots and works then start car and see if security flags again .

Your best bet on springs if carrying loaded weight and towing is custom set from springcoil.co.uk . They got lot of experience on rears for the SG and would give you good advise and solutions to your needs, they do increased rates, progressive springs and can adjust base height a little like for example raise rear 10mm help compensate for some load, that probably £60 more than the KYB spring set but can be wise thing do for those using vehicle loaded/towing . Ride should be quite good as you gain fair bit of improvement from new excel g's over half dead oems . All ones I done been nice ride, even XT models on kyb and springcoil full spring kits front and rear . on a side note If you need new bump stops and protection boots kyb do rear kit (2boots, 2 bump stops) for less than £20

Yeh it affordable and better than peddars units imo and expect struggle find a used set for the sg . good luck ...

You can buy new kyb excel G shocks and springs for around £185 shocks are £53 on ebay (cheaper than on my trade account), springs about £76 if google the part number . Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431

if you got air then proper long barrel is a game changer, makes the impossible not only possible but quick & easy and less damaging over clumping stuff with large lump hammer ect ... facom nano impact and air hammer 2 tools i couldn't be without, pretty cheap too both under £100, facom was at £99, decent air hammer start around £80 ...

Trick on these is a long barrel air hammer . Take all bolts out and try get it rotate a little using bolt hole ears for hammering . Once moves a little swap to a chisel bit in the air hammer to work it out . They can be a right c0(k without the air hammer .