Mr B

when say windows, fronts rear or both ! Front motors are troublesome as the motor housing faces down and collects water over time but symptoms of that normally slow and weak window movement.Check glass for alignment to seals as adjustable guide blocks keep frameless glass on course and if these out noise can be due to glass alignment off . Wiping seals down with silicone spray and lubing glass tracks with white lithium spray grease good practise . Motor removal pretty easy if know how do it but if don't can turn into a disaster, I can do some pics and basic pointers on removal if need arises . Don't pamic over sourcing motors as that pretty easy . Mirrors probably crusty mechanism, can try some careful application of contact spray or wd40 mixed with cycling operation and see if improves .

It's a small country but your forester can cover all of it all year round :-) I'm few miles from dartmoor national park ... You in barnet as in north london, not really 4wd fozzy country ...

Can't go far wrong with a petrol forester . hopefully we'll get some snow so you really get to enjoy it ...

His ar5e will be warm and perhaps a bit sweaty ! . seats straight swap, pretty simple fit heated seats to even a non all weather fozzy as harness points all exist in main harness run . Not a big fan of japanese leather or leather car interiors in general, age badly and awful in extreme cold and extreme heat .

Other thing to do before engine fitted is a new set of heater plugs, see post on here for info on heater plugs .

Basically a good used late 2010 or early 2011 ee20 complete block minus accessories, swap over injectors and all external parts to the new salvage supplied assembled block using new oem gaskets etc as needed. exact gaskets needed will all be down to how your breaker supplies engine and your dismantling technique., you also want service items oil filter, air filter, coolant. You will want review your clutch and dmf while engine out so could add another 500 . Finding good used engine at sensible price is the hardest part but if you not in a major hurry you should do okay .

At a guess from what I dealt with so far cost is about 2K if lucky. good revision diesel engines are worth more than your dead car . I see the foresters available at between 1K to 2K pending on finer details of spec mileage and overall condition. One we bought is 09 75K in metallic grey with only body defect being minor light scrape on rear bumper corner, paid 1,400 . Getting right engine at right price is hard bit, could by 3 or 4 of the foresters as few dead ones about and costly fix unless can do a swap yourself .

Don't bother, part of issue is the short block as they flex around main bearings and that helps the early crank versions fail . They done about 3 crank and possibly 4 short block revisions and you best looking into fitting a better revision engine to your fozzy . We actually got one in to do as above, purchased with same old crank failure (they worthless once busted which was nice for me buying but a killer for owners) :-/ and will be sourcing a used ee20 to get it back running in the new year .

^ job jobbed . good to hear ...

23yr old and a jdm import turbo, insurance companies going love giving you quotes lol. enjoy the car and take of it ...

Yeh it a cat1 alarm feature. you can not turn it off but once you realise that use fob button with ignition key turned it no bother at all . pdf manual link below > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-SUBARU-1-BUTTON-REMOTE-KEY-FOB-used-condition/222732134547 second thing want do is keep eye on single button subaru keyfob and swap the board and any other better parts onto your keyfob then you have proper working keyfob and a spare remote fob all for little expense. refer to other post you done on fob issues for the pdf on fob programing ...

Yeh but on the EE20 the gamble seems a little higher, 2008 to 2009 seem worse and amount I seen with engine failure, clutch failure and awkward deal with injector learning issues, dead and seized heat plugs or dpf regen issues is quite alarming. within 100miles of me I could probably pick up 3 used forester diesel non runners by saturday midday (seen 2 advertised for last 6 weeks). They almost as bad as a french car lol . euro 5 onwards things improve, 2011 is major step forward for ee20 but still not subarus usual bullet proof engineering . Just go into a subaru diesel purchase eyes wide open and buying best you can with at least 2 test drives and diagnostic reading of regen counter, dealer record check etc and for realistic money .

it's much better proposition than a 2008-2009 but still risks of highly expensive problems. They are great cars and interesting diesel drive but if can't handle a potential big bill maybe reconsider . A lot also depends on how great a deal your 2011 is to start with, between EE20 phobia from known problem areas and government harassment of diesels the price needs reflect it .

by gen 5 engines they had at least 3 crankshaft revisions and about same for short blocks, part of problem actually is the block flex at main bearing points stressing crank . Is a lot to go wrong on the EE20 diesels not just cank failure, clutch/dmf, diesel injector issues and heater plugs, DPF issues . Only consider a diesel if doing lot of long mileage journeys and get reasonable saving per annum on the fuel. Anything in between and petrol Ej20 engines pay you back over diesel in no hassle low maintenance and faithful sweet running .

Do a compression check old school with gauge or quick test via relative comp test with a scope, possibly low compression (low contribution from cylinder 1) .

It not sigma, it central locking only 2 button fob and security is skim key chip immobiliser (skim key transponder chip also in key fob housing but separate to pcb board) Easy enough fit a used or new fob pcb and program it to the Fozzy (instructions as above) as long as Fozzy side of it working right, most times it is indeed fob that faulty, cracked board, buttons broken etc etc .

yes, should be able get used and new, I got the 2 key fobs new as always keep few spare remotes for quick customer fix .

obviously test basics of remote first > good battery in it, pcb board and buttons visual inspection . If doesn't work fob will need be repaired or pcb swapped over from working used or new .

that just remote central locking fob , assuming have no motion sensors on windscreen side piller trims and no bonnet switch? If fob functional/working and central locking fob you program it as below . 1: open drivers door fully and leave open 2: do not put keys in the ignition. 3: Connect the white connector found behind the footwell kick panel next to the accelerator (RHD). 4: now with the door still open press and hold the rear part of the door lock/unlock button on the drivers door panel. Keep hold of it DO NOT LET GO. 5: now double press the open button on your key fob then the lock button on your key fob, then switch to a 2nd key fob if have one and do the same (even if already programmed and working as all required fobs must be programmed together ). 6: Once all key fobs been done RELEASE THE BUTTON ON THE DOOR And unplug the white connector . 7: test fobs before refitting footwell kick panel .

More details on "this forester" What year, SF or SG model and fob details or image if not like one below

was bodywork repair in area of wiper or its wiring ? I would assume bad wiring or relay to start with, basic power and ground checks to start with at harness to motor and see where results lead you ...

On a high mile legacy of like 160K plus and no record of what exact last timing parts fitted you indeed best doing everything, all idlers, tensioner and water pump, use only japanese sourced parts from same oem as subaru use, for belts we normally use dayco for this type model (and for the forester too) . For the fozzy at under 120K all idlers good idea, tensioner and water pump could be fine BUT need inspecting, both can be checked and is a test procedure for hydraulic preload on the tensioner (carried out to SFSM guidelines) * if parts already none genuine oem then fit new as china bearings and even european are junk compared to japan mainland brands . If do water pumps only buy blueprint, japan aisin or oem genuine subaru . Cheaper pumps bigger risk than old one throwing away as the original pumps are super high quality and last well on standard subaru models. If buying kits/parts yourself then ICP (import car parts) a good bet . likely get some discount buying for 2 cars and stating a SOC member . https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/contact

Yeh, trouble is if want everything absolute A1 and time goes over drastically you either eat the time or customer gets crazy bill, either way it ends up not viable business/life practise long term and a main reason so many tuners get issues, go under, get bad customer feedback etc . Running over a day with work load starts effecting other customers and jobs, throw in RR free time slots and it soon snowballs into a massive mess and reason why so many customers get tired of booking mapping work. Some tuners are indeed hapless and take path of least resistance get car out the door and some customers are waste of workshop time so not all issues are controllable by the tuner I waste fair few hours weekly unbilled just getting jobs done right and customers happy and work flow close to on time and with tuning game it gets worse, lot of faults are awkward stuff and likely been bounced from one tuner to another with hard diagnose fault or that many basic assembly faults on engine work and mods that about 8hrs needed just put the thing right so can do a dyno run without issues . remember piggysniffer, only one side of story on here, I never judge any issue unless spoken to both parties or involved myself as simply worthless information, pigysniffer sold up recently :-/ All tuners have unhappy customers, many come and go "tuners and customers" ... ...

It not a must and lots of tuners do basic map tweaks without road tests but good practise road test and cold start run it within reason, problem with road testing is can't legally get best results without breaking uk speed limits. Do full tests to redline and easily repeatable needs be on private road or track be legal/safe . Most mappers problem is time as most cars in reality take several hours/sessions map to perfection . We've had ones which won't even start well on a cold morning with aftermarket ecu and p1ss poor cold running mapping as don't keep car long enough or was setup in summer temps lol or boost leaks never sorted fully during mapping but found in 10 minutes with smoke machine . Tuner for that boost leak issue (on a Nissan but they popular with subaru) was local and well known and they told customer intercooler flow issue likely cause and needed new cooler and further map, was pretty obvious from fuel numbers and boost plot it likely had a leak :-/ also cooler was good size for application and decent quality. You here bad things about all tuners, can't see duncan could go wrong on code delete and basic map enhancement . Mapping actually not as hard as people think, what is hard is sorting all the niggles with cars before can map it well and doing it in a time frame that affordable to customer and profitable as a business and it that ratio that leads to all the poor mapping and mapping over faults not fully diagnosed/fixed etc .