Mr B

Your current rims look like 15" to me and would be 205/70/15 tyre size. These common and generally easy find steel rims on eBay or marketplace at various price points .

^ The hassle and expense electric handbrakes create is insane . We've had a few various vehicle transported in thanks to electric handbrake failures to disengage & I done a couple local mobile call outs to try save customer transportation costs. Some of the systems are pretty awful to use too even when system technically fully functioning . Amount of pointless poor engineered & cheaply sourced electrical/electronics in modern vehicles is waste of money and manufacture and a pollution concern . If people (excluding disabled cases) can not drive with a manual handbrake and without a stupid touchscreen vehicle interface perhaps they shouldn't drive at all, to me modern vehicle touch interfaces and jog switches are more of a safety concern than talking on a mobile . Common sense and good engineering has gone out the window and marketing BS and !Removed! every penny they can out of consumer under false pretences and bottom of the barrel manufacture seems be the common practice ...

would be good if the component upgrade was a wire cable and lever system, what an engineering marvel that would be lol . Elecric handbrakes is nothing but engineering stupidity .

around 30mAh +- 10mAh would be a more normal expected range of current drawer while vehicle parked and modules sleeping . You need get that checked or check it yourself if have a DMM . Parasitic drawer is quite a issue on vehicles the newer you go, partially as poor electrical engineering choices allowing for higher parasitic values and partially the trend for pointless low quality electronic systems . Go back to pre 2002 and parasitic values be 10 to 20mAh and you could leave these vehicles months and they still start and battery lifespan be longer because of it too . My battery recycling volume has gone through the roof thanks to poorer quality batteries and car electrical systems that function inefficiently ...

Yes Scotland and corrosion is an issue. Can still find pretty good examples down my way, automatics tend be easier find clean than the manuals . I big fan of electronic injection but not a fan of current trend of electronics and electrical control when not really any benefit and engineered poorly in all areas from programming, component quality & even poor choices of location of electronics in the vehicle . All we see these days is ever increasing electrical issues and short life components that getting worse the newer the car is. The repair costs can be pretty crazy too, reality is driving a early 2000's Forester until end of viable service life vs a current Hybrid/EV would be minimal cost and hassle and probably even better for environment over EV considering potential short life of EV and fact you using fossil fuels make the majority of the electric .

P0420 is cat efficiency, this is calculated from readings of front rear O2 sensors and a lazy sensor or exhaust leaks can cause this code . The other codes are all related to same issue of steering angle sensor fault or wiring/connection/signal issue with stability control . Both issues really need professional scan tool with experienced user as first step of diagnosis to review sensor readings/values for clues of problem part . Newer cars are total ballache, the older vehicles up to early 2006 are far more reliable and low maintenance thus low costs . I suspect you be far better off hunting down a real nice clean sensible mileage 2003 to 2005 Forester SG example . Newer cars are complete waste of money and time from what I witness daily ...

if it works it the right tool for the job lol ... Job jobbed .

advertise it marketplace gumtree and so forth, spares or repair needs be trailered as sorn ... lots of good parts and if corrosion not real bad possibly could go back on road, sure sounds like good donor car though.

The best component quality and factory build effort was 1998 to 2005 roughly . besides better longevity of things like suspension due to both part quality the engineering choices you also benefit from less emission garbage that nothing but endless warning lights once aged plus common parts are cheap even for oem quality on earlier cars . Road tax likely better too pre 2005 and your insurance won't have be stupid expensive on fairly low value vehicle . Forget the 2.5 unless stumbled on something absolute too good overlook and aim for the EZ engines as they are a gem in durability and offer good performance for vehicle size . You may want look at Outback too if that sort of vehicle practicality any advantage to you . On older cars main thing be thorough on is rust and you need truly look hard save any expensive mistakes

That out of spec, you can adjust the pedal from under the dash which might improve biting point but if clutch well worn it may not give results you hoping for . Clutches on these don't hold out great & quality clutch is spendy job

All it highlights is massive incompetence of Subaru UK ...

Mmm, Needs a good visual and leak down test . If your mechanics compression results correct surprised runs very good at all, if you using no oil/water and compression truly that low on one side then it more than likely valve/timing issue or cylinder to cylinder gasket failure perhaps (has timing belt jumped/gone slack). Such a sudden transition from running okay to failure is not norm for engine internal failure but could be for cam belt/timing issue . Don't overlook basics until compression/leakdown double checked/verified with cause found . Really needs competent investigation, heads can be pulled in frame pretty easily if clued up on it but if does need some level engine work costs going mount up even if do some work yourself .

Not a lot of details here to help give most useful response. What technical issues having leading up to doing compression testing and has any recent work been done to motor ? Initial assumption would be valve issues or valve timing on the poor compression reading head . A good visual and bore scope might give some answers quickly, leak down test be useful too .

Assume it elec motor to hub issue but usual no clarity on real nuts and bolt of it lol (much like diesel crank and Hybrid parasitic/battery issues lol) . Would assume it a pretty difficult fix post manufacture as if was not embarrassing and was easy remedy it would of been highlighted so as this bad press costs them millions and creates massive environmental waste from manufacturing & shipping faulty garbage all over the place for nothing lol . Anyone who thinks current electric vehicles going save the environment really need look into industrial manufacture & electricity manufacture and think a bit harder, you won't fix issues of industrialism by throwing more industrialism at it . If it wasn't so serious it would be funny ... I remember good old Subarus that do 20 to 30 years service and hardly ever need any major parts. Anything euro 5 onwards fills a skip with repair and service parts in 8 years and vehicle itself pretty much crusher garbage within 10 years, not even much salvage interest as such poor engineering/manufacture .

Really highlights the current manufacturing negligence and engineering effort to reduce everything to minimal expenditure, durability and lifespan . Not good for Subaru, It's golden age of top reliability and good gumption engineering is down the toilet thanks to the diesel, hybrid issues and general electrical glitches, poor durability on the newer models . Luckily haven't sold many. What amazes me is how so many people can so easily spend 30 to 60 grand on this modern vehicle garbage !

For road use lightly tuned it really not a must. What is a must is good service/maintenance effort mixed with top quality manufacturer parts and that means original japan sourced oe/oem parts for lot of critical timing belt parts. original water pumps are very high quality (Subaru made their own water pumps in house FHI for decades for a reason), you want oem or rcm, I use Aisin pumps too but only on non turbo road cars . Subaru oem Mitsuboshi belts are high quality and very rare see a problem that purely a belt fault as it normally other parts/poor fitting/poor maintenance root cause . The STi aramid strengthened belt is one I would use when application warrants going aramid . I not biggest fan of Gates .

You might want wait for the recall on wheels falling off get resolved first 🙂 Anyone buying a new/newer car wants put in a lot of homework prior to buying and be prepared for some hassle/expense .

Brilliant these EV vehicles, scrap before even drive them ... I hate to evaluate manufacture to waste lifetime carbon values of modern short life products ... Assume it linked to rapid torsional loads/drag created by electric motor ! will be keeping an eye on news updates on this lol . I should be all but retired before the current EV/Hybrid bank account emptying garbage becomes independent garage bread & butter thankfully lol ...

I would say absolute waste of money/material resources replace/paint that, any aftermarket paint on plastic is far inferior to factory coated durability by a long shot .. Your best bet on that is some top quality cutting paste to buff the scuff narks out best can and just move on with life. Light grey/silver is one of most forgiving colours for scuffs and generally can improve massively with a good finishing compound . Companies wanting to replace a bumper for that are just gouging easy money jobs not what best for customer or practicality/long term durability .

What exact model and year Legacy ? Full system as in full from manifolds or full from the Cat ? Also your 2K quote, is that a custom made exhaust or off the shelf pattern parts ?

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2009/Forester 2009/

The centre diff is a viscous coupling sealed unit and flushing gearbox oil will make no difference to it . new units for a 6 speed be around the £400 mark, the 6 speed is slightly harder replacement than a 5 speed box . I would drive it around a bit and see if stays constant issue, do check all tyres are close match in wear and same model tyre, one of worst things you can do on these AWD viscous diff systems is run miss matched and off brand junky tyres ...

198.9p a litre for good stuff near me, personally I do not not do enough mileage for it to be a huge burden and got a diesel 55-60mpg capable if need do economic longer journeys but the knock on effect to all other costs is going start hitting people and economy pretty hard. I got no idea why US didn't release more oil get price down as Putin laughing at the moment . Down side is going make electric easier push and the consumer only find out how that not great ownership ease/cost or great environment benefit in the next decade . Value of Subarus used going be affected, very much so for 6 cylinders one would expect as that always a concern to many before this price jump ... When gallon of petrol is £9 sub to low 20mpg makes you cringe and more so when feeding the kids, paying utility bills and mortgage all increased as well . World is quite a mess and frankly I would expect much worse is coming .

^ Yes ridiculous engineering mistake . I was under impression it power tailgate only but it might be the latch lock open keeping modules active . This the problem with modern cars across all brands ... a lot of features and tech thrown at it with poor levels of engineering and testing yet more effort and engineering in making sure components materials and assembly can be maximum profit potential leaving the customers with over priced short lifespan high maintenance and faulty from factory products ...

Basically fully opening and closing is pretty much part of the window learning procedure . don't fully rule out the rear hatch as possible still linked to that and when latch recognised open the related modules stay awake thus sapping power . another factor would be boot light . We had a few issues in related to the power tailgate . Window switch on this era also known faults and is a recall on certain part number switches, garbage window control engineering compared to anything up to around 2010 . It not so much the complexity of modern vehicles that the issue it the poor engineering thought and constant mistakes at electronic design and software programming mixed with constant striving effort make everything as profitable as possible basically resulted in designed failure to rape the consumers bank accounts every way they can, amazingly people also seem quite content keep buying modern rubbish and believe it environmentally better lol ! .