Mr B

Keep looking, do remember 2.5 headgaskets are an issue, no oil changes & poor oil play big part in the gasket breakdown ... You'll buy one then few weeks later see way better options appear . on cars like this it worth spending the extra to get a proper tidy one as they will be faultless/reliable & pay you back in no garage expenses & pleasure of a mint purchase . Bad ones can rack up expensive bills from £300 to £2,000 quite easily and more so if not handy with wrench yourself ...

I would at least take a code reader to check fault codes, if easy fix surprised it not done ! As for what to go for, I would take first one you find that is a proper impeccable clean low mileage example with impeccable paperwork whether it 2.0 or 2.5 Normally quite easy find 2.0xt clean & low miles, manual is way better, 2.0xt manual probably holds better resale potential too . extra grunt of 2.5 is good if think you need it . Main thing is be fussy & really look at the car in detail & don't buy intil you 100% happy .

they not same but fitment same (even forester struts can be fitted), you want stick with estate/wagon as rear spring rates are different . I personally would go new KYB & if want lower it get some 25-30mm lowering springs with slightly increased rates.

You can get a pair of KYB for about 150 or less & pair Optimal about 140 or less . eBay will have them as pairs. I wouldn't bother with cheap coilovers, they are a downgrade on a road car. if serious on lowering get a quality lower spring set go with it You could go with some used turbo stuff but I wouldn't bother unless super cheap .

@FozzySTurbo I would look at getting your cambelt done within next year/18months but worth checking visual condition by removing covers, uk service is bit over keen, US & Oz do closer to 100k on the belt and it exactly same parts, main reason difference is need more competitive servicing figures for those regions . As for clutch if bite point very high it maybe clutch dragging slightly, also could be worn syncros (common on turbos as higher rpm changes), If clutch seems poor might want get someone test drive it & give you an opinion. Worth changing gearbox fluid (75/90 Castrol Syntrax) as that can help sometimes with syncros .

^ that the right sort of price for full kit inc DMF fitted .

yours has DMF (dual mass flywheel) . It is recommended to change DMF with new clutch but if you do really come down to you & the fitter really, they can be resurfaced even though many say can't, they probably won't last another clutch life though . Blueprint or Sachs ok, Sachs kit with DMF is £500 region. Get your Garage check it, they may even do a good deal on clutch if does needs doing . Smoke issue needs be priority though, I would suspect injectors possibly . early boxer diesel can be a PITA and as potentially highly expensive best pursued while garage showing interest .

belt should be reviewed on any previous history of when changed . cost of full quality belt kit & fitting (Dayco with oem idlers/tensioner) and fitting will be around £340 to £380 Area look at on old Fozzy is rear subframe corrosion, rear chassis corrosion, inner rear arch corrosion, rear brake line corrosion, saggy rear suspension, rear diff & gearbox noise, clutch operation & bite point . The old SF forester are superb build but be fussy on what buy & check everything twice especially rear end corrosion as that can cost a lot repair right .

Clutch kit is about £160 for a Blueprint. If want do dual mass flywheel it will add another £400 to cost . Fitting could cost around £260 for proper job and not overly hard car to do clutch on. Main thing is buy top grade parts & choose a known competent fussy mechanic so work done to high standard .

What you need do is buy another key with programmed transponder chip then remove transponder chip from new key & cut new key down to shank. You then open up the replacement remote housing & dig out the transponder chip & get new programmed chip fit in housing. Once done cut the remotes key off but leaving about 15mm tail as use this to step lap new key to remote via small machine screws or 2 rivets . Done this a few times to keep customers happy as way way way cheaper than dealer getting involved & better than remote separate to key . done neatly & key joint finished on mill or ground very precise it looks like it made like it originally.

Use gas analyser to sniff for exhaust gasses at the rad cap port. if passes that, inspect coolant pressure holding/psi-value, inspect thermostat for function, finally fully drain flush & refill coolant & see how temp runs in normal use ...

Does it do it when stationary and apply varying revs does it do it more at certain rev & engine load does it only do it or do it more going over bumps or on rougher roads answer those sort of question & you should be able pinpoint area of likely issue better .

Think Boris need a tie with that printed on it :-D

If you on about JIS to SAE cone post shims then a good place look if hunting locally is agricultural outlets as lot of domestic type machinery (grass tractors etc) use these on small batteries they use so often have a set or 2 lying around or packed on display .

Those prices are about best you will get for what is decent branded quality parts, probably about 40% cheaper than average factor prices . You may find the KYB struts will combine postage saving a bit.Other options are optimal struts but I would take KYB every time at those prices . One thing to note is you will be about 10 to 15mm higher than standard turbo ride height because you using standard non SLS rear springs & matching front, you CAN NOT use the s-turbo rear springs as they only pair to SLS oem struts, if fussy on ride height use custom springcoil.co.uk springs (£200 roughly full car set) . What ever do will still handle way better than old dead struts & fatigued springs, springcoil is nice bonus if road/motorway car & fast driver & they can set spring rates & ride height to benefit your usage inc rear carry load/towing etc . They quite easy fit so if you handy with a spanner you can save few £ , brake line through rear strut bracket can be troublesome but not overly pricey make up new short hard-lines to wheel cylinder if needed, I would do set within 2.5 hours inc rear brake line if issue as rough guide. Working at home will be longer but it not unpleasant if plan it well & spray all fitting with release oil day or 2 in advance ...

KYB shocks front> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-FRONT-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334189-190-/181943982910 rear> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334191-334192-/181943999053 Suplex springs front> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Front-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032033-/141542632915 rear> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032034-/141542632909 Thats about £300 in parts but shocks are nice on uk roads, Suplex springs are better pricing than KYB as on over stock saleKYB have 2 year waranty on shocks. Pedders is another option & they do do slightly lowered sets if that your thing. I like KYBs & if being fussy when pairing with S turbo or XT models I like match the with custom springs from springcoil.co.uk, you can lower about 25mm on these kyb struts . thread with bit of strut info here>

Worth buying a cheap code reader or cheap cable, obd adaptor to use with pc or android software so can read your own codes .

flashing ECL can be misfire detected, worth checking plugs & leads if no useful codes or other faults found . Make sure plug gaps sensible & decent brand & right model while you have them out as when on boost the higher compression & more fuel creates greater resistance for the spark ...

Forester yes up to 2002. I would look at a late model SF sport or turbo forester as interiors are quite nice colours on those & super hard wearing plus no hassle swap. you could even include heated seats if used uk turbo sf as donor or a late model SF AWP with nice clean interior .

it would of been easy, only reason why not is cost & fact it easy few kilo weight loss . Subaru use be more about engineering & doing stuff the right way, building in a spare is the right way & hopefully they will realise sooner than later !! due to their customer base it rather short sited to go with puncture repair can :-/

Would of been easy build in slim spare if have tried during development . No spare is no way to travel, in likes of usa canada & oz it would be ridiculous & a life risk .

as stants suggested ICP is probably best bet. The Dayco kits they do are good quality & competitive pricing. bearings & water pump are top quality Japaanese not cheap china or east european junk. link below but best ringing them with reg or chassis details, you may also get bit of discount if mention you with subaru club, even 5% would be worth while . http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=10728&cat=96&sub=494&sec=1539&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

They can, tailpipe is good 2" too short & hangers need extending . 2.5xt looks closest straight swap to me.

I would look into the 2.5 rear box. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-5-04-05-Rear-Exhaust-Silencer-Back-Box-/311561001007 get seller supply OD of pipe to box & tailpipe . 90% sure they will fit. Also try powerflow again & perhaps call in local centre, rear box easy do on Fozzy & with vat should be no more than £178 for basic decent backbox made up .

As said sf turbo is option also 2.5 sg exhaust or best option is decent stainless backbox from powerflow. 2.5 (xt) rear boxes are cheapest at around £50-60 . check pipe diameters prior to ordering anything. Powerflow box would be nice job & done for life & being custom you got control on noise & tail finish, cost about £140ish from previous stuff we had done but it stainless & better quality/design internally as well .