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Found 12 results

  1. Hi all, hope everyone is doing well. I have some top mounts for sale on ebay and just thought I’d leave the link here in case someone’s looking. They have come from a 2004 blob wrx 4 door and are in perfect working order. Thanks
  2. Hello everyone and apologies if this has been covered in depth already. I am after some advice. A while ago a rear strut failed so rather than replacing one unit I decided to give a set of coilovers a go. While this certainly transformed the handling of the car, the set in question (Spax RSX) have always given a very harsh ride. I appreciate there is always a compromise for the performance but for me the knocks and bangs are far OTT for everyday road use. I have now decided to take them off and I need to decide whether to buy an OEM kit and go back to original OR (and this is where I hope someone can help) are there other coilover brands for similar OEM money that still provide improved handling without suffering a boneshaking ride. Ideally I'm not looking at spending more than £1000. As a side note, does anyone know where I could get hold of an OEM kit? I'm not having much luck. CAR: 2004 Impreza WRX with PPP (non STI) Thank you for taking time to read this post, any suggestions welcome. Harry
  3. Drop links, sway bar links, anti-roll bars - different names, same job. But if you want to change them, it's actually quite easy to do. And they are pretty much the same from model to model. An easy job to do if you're competent with a spanner, have some decent kit and a bit of muscle. You don't need to take the wheels off, nor do you need heat or an air spanner. You might do... The symptoms are side to side rolling at high speed corners, and more noticeable, feeling every stone you drive over. A jolting, jarring ride. And you'll never get the tracking right as there is too much play. Their purpose is to connect the axle/wishbone to a torsion bar so that the 'bump' is transferred to a piece of spring steel and not to you. It's pretty much the same parts and procedure from model to model. If it's this way on an Outback, then it's the same on a Legacy etc. Step by step, read on. Photo 1. I made my own ramps out of old scaffolding boards. Drive on, handbrake on and in gear. Photo 2. The tools you need: 1/2 inch ratchet with a 17mm socket. 5mm allen drive on a 3/8 ratchet 17mm ratchet spanner 17mm ring spanner Crow bar - to move things around if needed Torch A hammer for fine adjusting Penetrating oil. Photo 3. How it starts. Spray the threads, the nut and any joining surfaces with penetrating oil and then go away. Have breakfast, drink coffee, watch a film. You may need to spray again. Notice the alignment of the threaded bars - they're nearly parallel. This will change as you put in the new ones. Photo 4. Not going to photograph every step of the way so this is a picture of the new one but the procedure is the same. Use the 1/2" 17mm socket to loosen the nut because you get a better fit, more leverage and you're not going to round off the nut. Put the allen drive into the end of the bar to stop it from rotating and a 17mm spanner to undo the nut. A ratchet spanner is really handy. Photo 5. They come off the same way that they go on. Notice the alignment of the threaded bars - not parallel any more because the torsion bar has moved - it's under a different strain from the other side of the car. Photo 7. When the nuts are off, it looks like this. No air spanners needed, just British muscle. Photo 8. If you are forcing the new links in, they you're doing it wrong. You do not need a hammer. Use a trolley jack to alter the position of the torsion bar. Either it needs to go up of the wishbone needs to. Line up the holes and pop the new drop links straight in. Nuts on and tighten with your ratchet spanner, allen drive to hold it steady and tighten them up with a ring spanner. The nuts are nylon lock nuts so they'll lock on. I have no idea as to what torque setting it is, but you won't get a torque drive in their anyway. Just pinch them up with a ring spanner. Photo 9. The finished article. It shouldn't need tracking as this doesn't effect that alignment. Photo 10. The old. These are ball and socket joints, covered by a rubber gaiter. The bottom two were seized solid. The gaiter on the top left has a hole in it so was full of water. The top right was the only one that was working reasonably well. Quite possibly the originals with 92000 miles on them. Photo 11. The new. These are made by 'Blue Print' a brand available in England. Just reboxed OEM kit. £18 each, cheaper online. Photo 12. Side by side. No photo 6
  4. Hi guys and gals. I wish to give my 05 Impreza Wagon WRX (GG) a 1"-2" lift, This can be done with Forester struts or springs or top hat spacers or a combination of all three along with modified trailing arm mounts and sometimes ARB mounts depending on how high. I bought some KYB (334345) Forester struts but on comparison, they are narrower upright piston compared to my car's fatter inverted piston type. Which Forester uses the same diameter strut pistons as my car please? I am doing this because in January I am driving to the Arctic circle north Norway and there will be a lot of snow involved. Many thanks in advance, Ferg
  5. Hi all, I'm considering replacing the suspension bushes on my 2004 2.0XT (model SG5BK5D if that helps?) as there are a few clunks and squeeks that are starting to annoy me. I've seen this kit - having taken some parts off in the past, I think it would be wise to replace all nuts and bolts as they come off, having looked through the suspension pages here: and I think i will need the following parts along with the bush kit: Front Suspension: 2 x 9 - 20207AA000 - Nut, Self locking 2 x 12 - 202165A000 - Bushing (hopefully included in bushing kit) 2 x 8 - 20126SA010 - Stopper-Transverse link rear bushing 2 x 14 - 20126SA000 - Stopper - Transverse rear bushing - Front 2 x 2 - 901000264 - Flange Bolt 2 x 5 - 902350006 - Self locking nut Rear Suspension: 2 x 25 - 20540AA080 - Bolt B-Transverse Link 4 x 12 - 902350006 - Self locking nut 2 x 17 - 901000109 - Flange bolt 2 x 19 - 20540AA000 - Bolt Lateral Link Outer 4 x 24 - 900335056 - Washer 2 x 26 -20251AA000 - Bush A-Lateral Link (hopefully included in bushing kit) 2 x 31 - 20550AA010 - Nut - self Lock Can anyone confirm if my list will work? If there is anything else i should add or anything I wont need? End game is having a tight non squeeking Forester. That wont be a PITA to put back together or take apart again if required. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
  6. I'm after some guidance please fellas... I have a 2006 SG 2.5XT and I want to replace shocks and springs with KYB Excel-Gs and Springcoil springs. I have leaking SLS rears and want to lower a little while I'm at it and refresh all round. Looking on eBay and on some of the posts on these forums the following part numbers are given...which according to the KYB catalogue are for Subaru Forester SG 2.0, 2.0 S Turbo, 2.5 RX Nato 1.03 onwards Front: 334371 L / 334370 R Rear: 334345 L / 334344 R and they list the following for my vehicle: Subaru Forester SG 2.0, 2.5XT and 2.5 9.05 - 5.06 Front: 334469 L / 334468 R Rear: 339150 L / 339149 R I emailed KYB and asked the question, which ones were right for my car and they said the latter. My question is what is the difference between these parts...and why do I see the 334345/334344 part numbers for rears for example given as parts needed for similar cars on this forum. I wasn't actually aware of a difference, but since there's different part numbers clearly suggests there is. I am therefore a little confused Can anyone with more knowledge than me help clarify please?
  7. Hi All I'd like to pick your brains on what parts will fit my foz? I don't want to spend a fortune on lowering so it would be great to know which impreza parts, models, years would be suitable to put on the foz to get her sitting a bit lower. Spacers? Cambers? etc - any advice or info would be most appreciated!
  8. Hi! My wife had a smal accident with my WRX. So I decided do what was thinking to do along time ago :) ... Upgrade! (Syvecs, forged, md turbo, coilover, ..) Now I am selling some parts that I don't need. Parts are very good. Car is 75miles. No corrosion. The main parts are: - Gearbox and diff - Kn intake and air mass flow (typhoon moldel) - ECU (ecutek unlocked) - Intercooler - TMIC (undertray) - front suspension - some rear suspension parts avaible - fuel pump - sti 2.5 crankshaft - Some OEM internals (pistons, rods, valves...) - genuine forge BOV - Turbo TD04 13T 14412AA560 Can ship to all europe and accept paypal. Thank you. Can send photos to interested people.
  9. I have BC BR coil overs on a impreza GC8 shape set to 6 clicks from hard on front and rear running 32 psi front and 30 rear Its the front of the car that is bouncy just on general driving and you really feel any bump in the road could this be incorrect spring rate on the front?
  10. Hey, I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience fitting Impreza WRX Prodrive suspension onto a Forester? Both Cars are MY04. I'm looking for a sensible drop that still keeps the car daily friendly. I have read that the standard WRX suspension parts from the MY04 should be interchangeable, but not sure about the prodrive stuff. The old SLS struts on the Forester are sagging so I am thinking of changing all round anyway, Cheers Swayze.
  11. Hi guys, I have a classic impreza sport, and my mate who has just bought coilovers for his bugeye wrx and has offered me his std suspension with uprated springs, would these fit my classic?
  12. Dear BRZ owners, Hammink Performance provides upgrades for the Subaru BRZ, such as superchargers, cold air intakes, exhaust upgrades, suspension upgrades and brake upgrades. Click on the link for more information: