Mr B

yes the key with integrated fob is still M30 alarm .

try instructions in the m30 alarm manual (attached). While at it if you don't have a 4 digit pin code for alarm keypad be sure set new one while got a working remote fob . m30.pdf

That factory coating, it dries out and flakes off after 15 odd years. In the rear arches it can look fine on outside but can knock holes in inner arch and turret as rot from inside . With arches you can recote with underseal but rest of underneath best done with a wax rust treatment & inside of rear arch and sill best done with cavity wax . Hope you enjoying the purchase, best of luck ....

that was interesting . you got to love Japan ...

No, probably not put me off . Some surface corrosion fair enough but you got be prudent in inspection as it hides itself well and good welding work is not cheap, other issue is rusty rear ends means lot of bolts/bushes all junk when start trying dismantle for repair jobs . I always tend find XT cleaner than non turbo's as tend get used less as a country farm wagon . You going know more on this vehicle than me as visual inspection is what counts . Perhaps have another look and try barter price allow for some repair work problems . With price of fuel and road tax and SG not being such a classic as SF they not that quick to sell and even less so spring & summer time . Good luck ...

hard to say from images . All they really tells me is you want have proper good check for corrosion in usual problems areas of rear inner sill around trailing arm mount,rear inner arch around seat belt mount and turret walls., get hand up on top of rear subframe and see what that feels like, also check front u frame for corrosion . Need a good dig around and good tap to here and feel metal solid . Is a fair few XT around between 2003 and early 2005 & it generally fairly easy find proper tidy one if don't rush into it, best rule with used car is if got doubts/concerns don't buy & keep looking . More you look at more experience you gain on what right & potentially wrong and value . Always worth the extra for very tidy well maintained examples as generally saves you hundreds and headaches . Private sales generally better than trade in honesty and price ...

Best advice is avoid diesel . up to 2013 was the worst for boxer diesel but any modern era diesel is potential high maintenance so only buy diesels when it actually truly needed benefit . Don't overlook older vehicles, most of the best made high reliability is late 90's to 2005 era. 80% of my workload is new garbage electrical and emission systems and none of it cheap and many times owners already blown serious money and still got same faults and they at wits end with almost empty bank accounts lol .

that sucks as shows as London . If was Poland it been pretty quick, we get some exhausts via poland along with some oem parts at times and it 7 to 10 days . Glad to here all fitted good, have fun with the Fozzy ...

Indeed it becomes difficult to drive safely when that under powered . If doing 7K a year you could stick with annual service pattern, you could do 5 or 6K changes at the mileage interval but if not doing it yourself you may find this inconvenient in booking into the service shop versus one annual trip . I not a big fan of 10 to 12K oil intervals, it good for selling point but 8 years later we see massive difference in engines with more regular changes . It just about getting sensible balance so not throwing oil and filters and your money away too wastefully .

What miles do you actually do in 6 months ? Sticking to a 6k miles regime is sensible as is not throwing away good serviceable oil and filter just because 6 months are up . Problem with new cars is the basic engine & transmission mechanicals will outlast the electronics/electricals & appalling emissions systems by a a decade plus (excluding subaru diesel engines lol) Most of our work and expensive repairs are all newer cars and electrical/emission/ safety related equipment . They already getting border line close to not financial viable repair when not long out of warranty and main dealer assistance 😕 The hybrid going be much same as the 2008-2011 diesels and being scrapped in huge numbers as worthless garbage too costly make work and some faults unfixable as manufacture engineering mistakes/choices with no viable solutions . The amount of moaning I get from any owner of a hybrid is simply astounding, it a miserable and costly experience for a lot of people 😞

what model forester, what year, engine,transmision etc . You certainly can get them for much less than £400, used original can be good way go, be careful with aftermarket and refurbs as many are garbage even compared to decent used . I only use aftermarket when totally stuck on options as get too many issues such as noisy or vibrations straight out the box or within few months plus joint boots can be awful quality/fit and end up split or popping off . Rear going be bit more forgiving on what used than a front would be, what the reason for needing a complete replacement shaft ?

The enclosed end is the inner (subframe attached) The outer bush is a pillow ball bush and presses into the hub . Should be these but review image & confirm with seller to save any ballache . 1x bush https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124078842308? 2x bush https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124078842334?

It will but you need swap injectors over as they calibration coded unless equiped program them, later engines need more swapped. Only worth doing if confident donor engine going be A1 runner and your car got no other issues such as poor dpf or egr issues . Could ideally need a clutch too and the costof good effort gets spendy. Most we get in unfortunatly go to salvage/scrap as most owners not willing spend big and we can't do shortcuts on these as they total ballache and liability and don't want come-backs and hassle .

Okay thank you, don't seem be getting notifications on PM's .

We can put these to good use saving a Forester SF that needs all new struts/hardware and make it cost viable repair. (will fit SF but got adapt brake line brackets) PM me, can pay a sensible part cost and shipping .

Have you tried programming just one fob ? and if that does not work try program procedure again with other fob . Picking up a used fob or borrowing another fob for a test would be a fairly easy way forward in diagnosis .

Well originally it a tapered end doughnut that sits on a snub of the front pipe, idea of this and the springs is spring provide fixed tension and tapered end dougnut allows some angle variation and whole concept has some vibration/expansion ability . You won't be able reconstruct it to be exact same principle but it not a big deal, the flange joint will need a metal graphite gasket (examples link) just use some 8.8 grade bolts/nuts and decent thick washers . The good thing with the clamped slip joint is that allows small degree of alignment angle change and some expansion and vibration relief . On the slip joint the slits should be at 90degrees to the u bolts nuts as outer pipe closes better that way as tighten u bolt clamp and it tends reduce tendency of small leaks at the pipe slip joint slits . You going want fairly long repair flange pipe 8" being minimal , The front pipe larger expanded diameter would be removed and your repair pipe would be chosen to fit over the slimmer main diameter . Easy job if measure up and buy parts wisely . Cheap too and Russia mess going be costing us all enough 😕

With one of the flanged repair sections with flange one end and expanded other end for clamp you could do quality long term repair yourself . The bolts would be grade 10.9 . Only blades we have much with a carbide tipped, spendy but do job quick and neat . You done the hard work, I would go for the glory and get yourself a repair flange section and save yourself a garage bill and treat the wife to a box of chocolates lol .

Potentially yes as moisture and minerals can collect around it and get drawn in via capillary action . Reality is at this vehicle life point it not a big deal, any type of half decent repair here going outlast the next major exhaust failure that requires larger repair/replacement solution . I have used a few flanged repairs that flange one end and clamp the other to save owner buying a cat when metal too poor condition risk welding and they lasted well, one I done close to 4 years ago and was fine when done last mot pre inspection and service work . Done well and in the right instances they very cost viable and will last .

Your only real option of good home repair is buying a flanged repair section that slip over the front pipe and be clamped as expanded slip joint and bolts to the centre flange. See eBay link to get idea of what you want to achieve this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233362362813 You can use exhaust joint paste or a high end polyurethane sealant with some success but this area of exhaust harder seal due to heat and back pressure at play. You don't really want cut the flange off centre pipe as it perfectly good although not end of world if replaced with decent option and installation This is a super easy fix for any half decent garage and for exhaust shop that does fabrication it even simpler as they will have lot of stocked parts and this is gravy work for them . We do a fair few of this on all models as a common failure area on older cars and more so in heavily road salted areas such as Scotland . Personally I would suggest you save money by avoiding temporary repair unless can do a worthwhile option/effort and get it sorted at garage as a repair to existing front pipe. You most certainly don't want any new front pipes if can be avoided and you also want avoid aftermarket especially cat sections as fit and function along with quality is not even close to factory oem .

It like 5 minutes a strut to dismantle, we hardly ever use new top mounts or rubber insulator as they generally will be good and zero hassle swap parts over compared to cost/hassle new if not truly needed ! The rubber insulators will be 99% likely reusable, generally only time we use new is when build up SG Forester struts to fit old SF Forester . If you do need the try ICP (import car parts) or local subaru dealers parts department, give them part number and tell them it spring insulator and await the price surprise .

every one will do it at some point, it issue of fatigue and torsional overload that never fully resolved, 3rd revision on crank and blocks are improved but not immune to problems, 2008 to 2012 is the worst, in the trade they avoided tike a new covid strain .. . Absolutely everyone knows about it so if you got any dealers saying otherwise it professional lies ... most common mileage range is 80K to 1140K but anything possible, under warranty period dealers had them in with snapped cranks at less than 50K. Most now don't get repaired as quite simply exceeds cost of the vehicle and they not worth a lot on used market because of crank issue and several other issues such as dpf egr, injector learning and stretched cam chains (all expensive and all quite common). They are quite simply misery for owners at some point in time and huge amount scrapped already, we had a lot that gone salvage as engine replacement expensive route and it still got the engineering flaw and quite possibly other areas that need repairs be perfect functioning, shocking but that modern garbage and much same across the board, part quality is at an all time low, is an absolute ***** getting parts that work and keeping repair cost customer viable ... I got no idea why so many people buy this expensive garbage ! is money easy come by !!!

Main tip avoid diesel, no beneficial savings due to higher diesel cost, poor real world mpg and higher maintenance/service needs of modern diesel. repair costs on diesels thanks to egr and dpf problems ruin owners bank accounts and cause lot of ownership stress ( I see the hassle daily and it SERIOUSLY not fun) The early diesels have coomon crank failure issue (even later not 100% free of crank breakages) and this leaves you with scrap on wheels generally (we still getting 2008 to 2013 boxer diesel engines failures in and it a sad scenario for customers) If you want proper made, proper reliable you far far far better off buying from 200 to 2005 era, Outbacks and Foresters from this era are the best built subaru . Newer car you buy the more it will cost you in purchase, repair/running costs and ownership ballache . Quality and engineering concepts of newer cars across the board is APPALLING Do yourself a favour and take time pick a proper prestine condition early 2000 era model at sensible money, do initial good service work bring it to A+ order and enjoy years of minimal hassle and expense. Parts on this era Subaru are pretty cheap, just be sure educate yourself on part prices and brand quality and use garages that know what they doing as many won't and you will be paying there tuition fees ... If you are doing serious high miles and diesel a must you best look at Volvo XC D5 models pre 2006 ...

Did you buy those Kamoka mounts as see they sold ? was cheaper than we could get on trade account .

What I would suggest you do is not cut the front flange if it good condition, you would be far wiser get a pre cut flange (measure your flange bolt spacing) and taking that and your flexipipe to a shop and get them weld flange on (exhaust shop likely have a flange) then you got one side oem style which be far easier to fit and far easier/less problematic further down ownership line . May seem like more hassle but it likely work out less long term . also be sure as much as possible old pipe is inserted in the slip over joints or they will leak and be hard seal as lot more heat cycling back pressure and vibration/movement in this area all making it harder job make joins stay leak free .