Greenmamba

When you say the belt wasn't turning the compressor, do you mean the belt was actually slipping on the outer rim of the comp (where the grooves are) or do you mean the centre hub wasn't going round? Switching on the ac, does the clutch click to engage or does nothing happen? If you can hear the clutch clicking but no engagement, it may be that the shims need adjusting (removing a shim will allow the clutch to pull in and engage). If there is no clicking when switching on the ac, the relay may be faulty.

What makes you think the ac compressor needs replacing? Those things are very robust.

Hello and welcome

When I did mine, that was the part number, genuine part I got from import car parts, about £26 plus postage. Taking the thermostat off should get most of the old coolant out but probably not all. Check orientation of the jiggle pin on the old thermostat (before removing it, once you've got the housing off) and install the new one same way up. I flushed mine with rain water (from a water butt), couple of times, then with de-ionised water, then refilled. Try and get all the air out when filling (burp the car). Did you get the "smoking" problem sorted?

If it's an automatic, which I assume it is the rearmost dipstick (passengers side, correct?) is for the transmission fluid. Check the level when the engine is running, in park. Two different levels, one for hot reading (after a run) the other for cold (just recently started the car). The level should be between the two markers. If it is a manual, not a clue what that dipstick is for. The code could be many causes. Is there any sign/sound of exhaust leak? I have no experience with LPG modded vehicles, so no comment on that. Good luck anyway. Check also the cv boots - grease thrown out over the cats/exhaust might appear to be smoke/steam.

Congrats on your bambino!

Wouldn't consider not having one - have 2 now, one watching forward, one checking back. That one, since I got rear-ended at the traffic lights, 2 weeks after buying the car!

Sounds like you need a new garage - that lot seem clueless.

All, I have a left hand (passenger side) headlight from a 2001 X reg (3rd Gen) Outback which is left over from my previous car. Offered free for anyone collecting from Maidstone. It would probably fit a Legacy same vintage. It is complete, no known breaks/cracks and didn't let in moisture/water. It is not pristine but might do someone a turn. I think c/w bulbs. Message me if keen?

Probably need new tyres.

Sorted my insurance renewal - £238 full comp. Happy.

When were the plugs changed/gapped correctly?

Have you checked coolant?

I don't know if this is still current? http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2016/05/you-can-own-one-of-the-rarest-subaru-impreza-stis-ever-made.html

What is it you are intending to do? Working on or under a car supported by jack/s only is not recommended and you need to be confident of the securing points especially with trolley or bottle jacks (single point of failure). Picture of front cross member (2 types shown). My car has the large frame, yours may be different. Regarding the rear diff - confirm you need a picture of what a diff looks like?

I haven't checked the manual, it's over 6000 pages! I would use the diff at the rear, front there is a cross brace behind the sump and to which, apart from other things the under-engine cover attaches, which is what I'd use at the front.

That is good news. You going ahead with the buy?

That's why I said from certain years, not sure where 2006 fit in the redesign of h/g. Wouldn't hurt to examine the h/gasket area for signs of weepage, if it's there could be coolant, or oil or both. Probably neither. One thing to consider is timing belt. I think the 2006's still have, newer models went to chain. If it's belt, I'd get it changed pronto. The distance (116k miles) demands it if there's no evidence it's been done in the last couple of years.

Rear door lock - is this back passenger door or tailgate? If the latter, the linkage from the exterior handle and the "return spring" tend to rust, the handle doesn't return when released but if one checks each time that the handle is manually returned to where the spring would take it, may cure what seems to be a non-working lock. Mine has been like that for ages, I just got used to it (tried stripping the lock apart, too tricky to get out so gave up!). Otherwise, 2.5 n/a (ie non-turbo) motors from certain years have had headgasket problems, manifest themselves by no mixing of fluids, random overheating. Main evidence is external leaks along the gasket line, usually from the nearside, rear part of the motor. Sometimes, Stop leak can delay things but not one I'd recommend. Check transmission fluid, smell and check colour. Always check with motor running, in park. CV boots drivers side go early, probably due to cat converter heat (close proximity) cooking the rubber. Wheel bearings from that series known failure point. I'm really not trying to dissuade you!! If there's no sign of H/G going wrong, the rest (assuming the transmission is OK) shouldn't strand you and with care, the car could easily take you through the 200k barrier.

Good to hear, must be a problem with the one key. I'll attach a copy of my Sigma manual, if it's any good? Gives some pointers on key pad (pdf) Subaru sigma_m30_manual.pdf

I'm out of ideas. Good luck.

No idea, sorry. Last thought - have you tried disconnecting the car battery (with car key out of ignition), press the brake pedal (clears residual current) and re-connecting car battery, then try remote/start? It's a long shot, I know but something I'd try last resort

Without the code, not sure what advice I can give. The immobiliser is waiting for a signal from the alarm module and somehow/why it's not getting one. Have you only the one key? As far as Subaru is concerned - when I bought mine, no code came with it. I went to the agent, proved the car was mine (V5, etc) and 10 mins later, got the 4 digit code. Good luck, sorry can't be more help.

Might need a bit to go on. What model Leggy, and what happens when you go to put a destination in? Do you have the home screen (map) visible, or nothing at all?

When you say you recently changed the battery, you mean the key battery or the car battery? If the key battery, is the battery sitting right and secondly, why was it changed recently? Last question - assume you don't have the keypad code number with you?