Scoobyghost

Ha ha now just need to know why it blew.

What was it?

Explain? Never heard of that before. Petrol shouldn't expand? Also check your PMs. Think I have an idea on what it is now though, just haven't had time to double check it yet. No issues at all. The car wasn't even started when it was leaking, so doubt its the return to tank line. But it's stopped now and there's nothing under car this morning, which again leads me to the same thought as you. Could be the seal on the access opening OR it could be the filler neck as it seems it's all leaked out of that. It's definitely coming from the upper side of the tank as you can see it's came down from the top. Car still shows tank as full. Hmm, possibly. Depends. I thought that was more for separating water out anyways though... I'm sure @stants had an issue with the seal, so he might know more about that bit more? Suppose I best get the car up and have a look then...planning on tossing the new(old) exhaust on tomorrow if all goes to plan so could have a look then. I have replied to pm. Petrol doesn't exactly expand its more the fumes and vapour it gives off when warm/hot. Should always fill up when cold too, petrol is denser and it all starts getting scientific. Not massively though but if it was totally full and left in the sun it's not pretty. We have a lot of fuel cans on site and some pleb once left it next to an exhaust of a diesel compressor. The can expanded and eventually burst. Not in a catastrophic exciting way. Just developed a small hole.

You should always leave some space in the tank for expansion.

Your code is indicating a fault with throttle position sensor. It reports a low voltage. The first step now would be to replace the TPS.

I had an issue on my old scoob. The fmic pipework came apart, car cough spluttered and black smoked the 1/2 mile back home and then wouldn't start again. I disconnected the fuel pump and kept cranking. Eventually it fired up and wasn't anymore issues after getting back on. TL;DR Could the engine be flooded?

Any check engine light?

ARB mounts or drop links may be damaged. Chances are as Mattie says it'll be the shocks

Best any of us can do is offer experiences as advice. Ultimately it's up to OP. One thing for sure is there will never come a time that everyone agrees on the same thing.

You've got me here being mapped twice, Swino 3-4 times. That's 5-6 maps all with good feedback regarding work. I know of 3 others who have been mapped and are happy. My cars been mapped since January and no issues. If something goes wrong now I can hardly go back and say it must've been the map. If there's a mapping issue it's usually instantly obvious or gets picked up on very quickly.

One proven incident, many more covered up by clinics aggressive threats of court action. Dozens of proven incidents or second hand "my mate" had this done. The problem with this situation is you can never get every detail. Noone can go without ever making mistakes so of course it happens to everyone. How do you or I know that every car that's been mapped is in perfect health before it enters mapping. Does the guy that had his mapped want to look like an idiot when there's an issue caused because he fitted massive injectors 6 weeks before mapping, bore washed his oil, got mapped and then still ran on diluted oil. We know the end results. How about all those that advocate fitting a decat with no remap. Run lean for a month because they enjoy the sound, the extra boost, get mapped and oh look more issues...everyone will blame the mapper.

I'd rather take my two, first hand experiences against the one sided stories I'm always hearing. Can we apply the same logic to you leaving your car at clinic? We've all seen the footage.

He mapped mine before piggy and he's also mapped it after piggy. No issues at all. I'd question the health of piggys car pre-map.

Another map thread and more of this rubbish. When will you let it go [emoji23] Racedynamics mapped my car twice now and had no drama. I'm highly mileage, I've done track days and pod runs. Its been perfect.

Mine were horrible. Dropped the car to the floor and rattled the car to pieces on the smallest of bumps. Fitted them and refitted stock in a day because they were that bad. If you're buying new they may well be a lot better and going on a more modern car I'm sure they're made with it in mind. My car was a daily/family car so was at least hoping for a bit of middle ground but absolutely no chance. Tried adjusting the dampers underneath the shock and adjusted the spring to no joy.

I have seen it but it's been a good few years and I wouldn't say I can recite the script.

Number friends Such a block [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] best friends...nah, we can be number friends.

I have a 3" decat system and it's quite tame. It does have a large centre box though. Doing centre and rear isn't too bad but it's the decat that allows the exhaust to escape a lot quicker which makes the pressure harder to control for the ECU

Don't start all that in a new thread [emoji6] What build have you done? Stick some pictures up.

Welcome aboard. Plenty of good knowledgeable bods here ready to answer any questions you have. What do you have?

The bearings weren't replaced? Wouldn't be the first time RCM have done this despite being advised to. As I said above name and high price doesn't always mean you get a good job. [emoji6] Indeed it doesn't [emoji23]

The bearings weren't replaced?

Have someone sat in the back too with their ear against the rear quarter. My rear bearing went and was really noisy but had no play in it. Got to a point I couldn't hear the burble

Decat will give you overboost and fuel cut quite often.

Do you have a video of the noise?