Scoobyghost
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Everything posted by Scoobyghost
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Unfortunately I can't say which injectors to go for. It's a bit beyond my knowledge. As for second hand units, it's always a risk because you don't want one failed when giving it some beans.
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What turbo is on it? I'm guessing it's import so will have a TD05. If that's the case you should see over 300.
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What's going on here then [emoji57] [emoji41] Was a while ago now. When I bought the car previous owner told me he had the system tested and found the evaporator was leaking. He didn't bother repairing/replacing it and I've never used air con in a car so wasn't missing much. Roll on to when we done the cambelt and while it was off we decided to leave the belt off(Air con belt is separate) stripped the pump out, some pipework and the air con rad. I haven't had any lights at all before or after removal. Even when switching the air con on(devil makes work for idle thumbs) there was a button and it had to be pressed for science. Anyway moral of the story is, you can remove your air con with no ill effects towards the running of the car and it won't throw up any engine lights. Plus one less belt for the engine to power [emoji57] [emoji18]
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I done a bit of research and found on clubwrx it is mentioned the actual size is 3.5mm. May be worth using 3mm and lube or go for 4mm and use some ties at the ends. Also not sure of the pills diameter. If you change that section you want that snug.
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I bought 3mm and 5mm. Found the 3mm to be a bit tight so needed lubing.
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Dirty !Removed!! Hate to see that. We work hard for what we have just for some little scumbag to come along thinking they can just pinch it and do one. Not nice at all.
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Stants will see you right. He helped me with mine. I even stole his ptfe tape while we were at japshow. I've still got it [emoji23]
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You will need to buy adapters for the oil sensors. These can be had for roughly £30. The job itself is pretty simple but be warned, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the oil adapters. The thread is soft and they will be under high pressure. Wrap a bit of ptfe tape around them. I made the mistake and didn't do that first time so had to take them back out and refit. This is the T piece under the alternator. My gauge. Size difference. Sensor on left adapter on right.
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TD04 is a smaller turbo. Quick spool good for 270-280bhp with supporting mods.(I have this at 276hp). TD05 which is on import gc8's is a larger turbo good for up to 320hp but a later spool. Then there is the vf series of turbos which usually come highly recommended. There are plenty of variations of these turbos and I'm not so clued up on them. There's also more specialist made turbos from UK Subaru specialist garages. Have a look at this link and it may explain more than what I have been able to: http://www.racedynamix.co.uk/remap/subaru-remapping/subaru-standard-fit-turbo-listing/ If you do change the turbo you will need to have it mapped in. Also depending on choice of turbo, you may need larger injectors. I'd highly recommend a higher rates fuel pump to keep up with the extra demand for fuel. Roger Clarke motorsport or walbro make good pumps. This link shows mapping options for gc8's. http://www.racedynamix.co.uk/remap/subaru-remapping/ Hope this all helps [emoji5]
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Glad you got it all sorted. Not a bad price. I do as much as I can myself too. Got wheel ramps and stands always ready.
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Where are you located? There may some good reputable specialist near you.
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Right, one of those tyre discussions again. I'm in the market for some new boots on the old girl. I've had Goodyear eagle f1 gsd3's for the past 12k miles and I trust them with my life now. I'm on standard wheels if that helps [emoji12]. So far I'm struggling to find them in my current size of 205/50/16. From what I've found I am meant to have 205/55 as standard. A couple of points and options spring to mind. Is it possible to go 215/50 or 45 on the standard rim. If not and I'm all out of options for the gsd3, what other tyre should I be looking for of equal quality. Rim for clarification
Welcome to the club. Have you ever checked importcarparts.co.uk for service parts? They're more specialist with great deal of knowledge over the phone. I've always found icp to be a lot cheaper than ecp and icp stock genuine partsToday I have been busy [emoji5] Just gotta do the front drop links and give it a whirl
Today I've been stripping and painting my rarb ready for fitting tomorrow. Sprayed it with 792 silver as that's what I have here. Just gotta clear coat it and it's all protected.
How long would an lpg conversion take to pay itself back and then start saving money? Let's say on average I spend £40 on petrol per week which gives me 41(9.2gal)litres of fuel and I get 25mpg. In total 230 miles for my £40. What equivalent figures would I be seeing with an lpg set up? Lots of mad man maths but trying to look at the long haul investment.Trying to squeeze extra power from an n/a engine is always a tough one. You would be better starting with the handling side of things. Decent rubber(depending on what you already have) will let you hold more of that speed you've worked up. Anti roll bars, drop links, coilovers. All will help to stiffen up the ride and reduce body roll again helping the car stay balanced and more able to hold its speed before letting go. If you did want to go for power avoid getting a big diameter exhaust. The n/a needs back pressure the hold a good torque figure. Aside from that, stick it in a pot ready for a turbo model [emoji5]Always a risk going for a second hand lump. If it's been sat in a yard for some time it would need belts/servicing.Could have an oil cooler fitted and braided lines putting the filter in a different position. Had one on the old impreza. Oil cooler is the blue radiator type unit. Oil filter is up where the air con would be.
Yeah I imagine so. Likely only do a couple laps. Doubt the old girl would do the full 20 minutes flat out.You got me at £30/20minutes track time [emoji7] Do we know if we need helmets or if they need to be hired?
