Scoobyghost

Sounds like a one way valve will fix your problem.

Cracked/perished tyres. Dirty brake, clutch and PAS fluid. Other perishables like cv boots may be brittle or cracked. Possible electrical faults if any condensation has gotten in. Might be worth cranking the engine manually or disconnect the Cam sensor. Get some oil circulating before having it run. The heads will likely be bone dry after 6 years. I'd give it a fresh service too. New plugs, new air, oil and fuel filters. Nice fresh oil in her sump too.

Heat soak would cause detonation. I don't think heat wrapping is ever done to gain HP. Simply to prevent the heat getting into other components. We all know not to gun it after being sat in traffic as the tmic will have taken a lot of heat in.

I had a similar back box and standard centre section when buying my 2000 Impreza. I change the centre and rear to a 3in less restrictive system and gained 23hp iirc. 211hp standard and went up to 234hp. I don't know what the original power was as a comparison so standard figure is based on Parker's and other reviewing sites.

The one you have now sounds like the aux belt for alternator and power steering. The second belt you need will be for the air con. I'm not sure on the product code but if you look on Importcarparts.co.uk you will be able to find it.

They do the same for me. Always give me a look of confusion because they've never seen it before. Eventually they get a supervisor over and manually deduct 15%. I've even had to calculate it for them before.

May be some choice motors going to that.

Welcome to the club. Chuck up some more pictures. Get involved, plenty of friendly peeps here.

Slap a flat head screw driver in there if you're desperate. Those pins don't usually stay there long with a bit of force [emoji8]

You don't need the AA to check the belt. You can pop the cam cover off. If you had tensioner and pulleys changed though you will need a better inspection. You could ask to see invoices but some places are stingy showing those.

Welcome to the club. Did you get any check engine light come on?

Bubbles in the coolant can be an indicator that exhaust gasses are getting into the coolant. Best way to diagnose that for sure is a sniff test.

What's the transmission code? Should be a sticker on the gearbox.

I feel for you. Sounds like someone ruined it and sold you a lemon. Quite a few Subaru's get sold that way. One owner will run them in to the ground and then ship it on.

Relatively easy to find. Do you have the transmission code?

Ive had injectors cleaned before and despite the report showing an increase in flow and a better pattern I never noticed any difference when driving.

Might work out cheaper to just buy some stickers for the scoob. I got 13hp just from my forum window sticker.

Wasn't clinic again was it? [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] Just a joke peeps [emoji8] Have a look into the situation with clinic though. It will help you see what may happen and what plan you need

Yeah been a while since I've known anyone to map a classic that old too

Most I know opt for esl on pre 98 classics.

20hp for 350 is a good price. Compare that to the cost of a new zorst or remap and it's rather competitive.

Fit an oil temp or water temp gauge. That will give you an indication if its running hot.

Your ecu should be mappable but would need an esl board added. Which mappers have you contacted that told you it's not possible?

130!? I get almost 300 from my classic 😂

What fuel do you use? What mods have been done? Has it been mapped? If it has what fuel was it mapped for?