Jay762

This my classic wish list site http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/

running rich isnt too bad - picture a bunsen burner with the valve closed, big yellow flame (and possibly some out of the exhaust) versus running lean which is your blue flame that melts pistons

Wotcha and welcome!!

I stand corrected, currently investigating directional airflow sensors to understand just how much of this leakage occurs... There is always the option of mapping the car to run without a MAF but first before any more mods are completed I would be keen to understand and resolve the issue of the boost loss Will you be changing your turbo to the journal type mentioned by Savage if you fit the blank?

let us know how you get on

bosch leads are fine for your motor, you may have a defective coil pack depends on the codes generated, transmission fluid is worth doing, again, dependant on last time it was changed, I believe the fuel filter is attached to the pump on your model so hold off until you change the pump, as you have been quite extensive, whilst you are looking you could do the rear diff fluid

Wotcha and welcome!!

Wotcha and welcome - an interesting find and clearly mint but as TLag suggested a classic car forum may be more helpful with collectors as members

also whilst you are checking rule out CV joints by slow driving on full lock fwds and reverse, a cyclic clunking is CV joint gone

Wotcha and welcome- dont know how many are in that colour but I do like it - a lot :)

keep us posted ;)

Wotcha and welcome - agree with Matt on the price - however it is a nice car and I do like the colour - I would check the HKS is a genuine item, the mods are not too extreme for the power generated so you should be fine. The front shouldn't lift under power due to the rear wing and STI's come without a front splitter and spoiler as standard

Wotcha and welcome - they do turn heads - and quite right to!!

I would be interested to understand why you were loosing boost with the HKS as they are a quality piece of kit and shouldn't impact performance. Fingers crossed for you Savage looking forward to the results though :)

just thought - if the petrol pump has not been changed since new I would budget for one of those in the near future

wotcha and welcome - thank you for those kind words we are fortunate to have a great set of members. If it was me I would check the brake pads and discs for wear, replace if necessary and bleed / flush through with fresh dot5.1 brake fluid. Also consider an ultrasonic clean of your injectors and replace plugs, combined with all you have already done you should be in good shape

here is the Wiki info on the subject of flutter etc - it describes compressor stall where pressure escapes past the turbine and also the wear on the turbo itself - MAF (or equivalent) an a relation to over fueling is not mentioned - in my previous post I had omitted the bit about the throttle body and just mentioned revs dropping when clutch was dipped when changing gear )also assuming that a drive by wire throttle and flat foot shifting is not a consideration There is confusion in the automotive world about so called "wastegate chatter" or "turbo flutter". A noise created on lifting off the throttle in a turbocharged car, commonly described as a chipmunk or a rattlesnake, is often stated incorrectly as being a result of the turbo's wastegate closing. The noise is in fact the air compressed by the turbo passing back through the compressor wheel of the turbo after the airflow is abruptly halted by the throttle plate closing, called compressor surge. However, in some cases, i.e. where the blowoff valve/recirculation valve does not open fast enough or is set up to only react to high boost, some chatter will remain. Surge can occur on diesels when the turbo is attempting to pressurize the air at a higher pressure ratio than the compressor wheel can flow at a given speed. Most Diesel engines have no use for a blowoff valve as they do not have a throttle plate. The chatter noise is very noticeable on World Rally Cars, where anti-lag is used. A compressor stall like this can cause excess stress and wear on the turbo's shaft or bearings under higher load applications of the turbo (around 15 pounds per square inch (1 bar) and greater depending on the trim and flow rate of the compressor side). Actual wastegate flutter occurs instead under partial boost conditions such as partial throttle near the boost threshold. It sounds like FftFftFftFft not ShuShuShushu and is caused by the rapid opening and closing of the wastegate at boost levels near the spring pressure. It is commonly heard more clearly and may be more prominent on cars with modified intake silencers, up-pipes, downpipes, or an oversized wastegate incorrectly matched to that specific engine. Also, vehicles using on/off solenoids to control boost can do this under certain conditions. It is not harmful to the engine. Some may claim that it can damage the wastegate, which may be possible under some circumstances, however some vehicles flutter regularly inherently from the factory without any consequence.

Wotcha and welcome - do love a hatch me

thats ridiculous - you couldn't wear those earrings for any length of time

The pressure does not flow backwards and forward across the maf as you describe - there is air flow in one direction just more or less dependant on your engine speed sucking air in as long as the engine is rotating at least one cylinder will have valves open and draw air in maintaining the suction, the rotation of the intake turbine is dependant on the exhaust gases rotating the other blades, these gases flow less as you dip the clutch to change gear and revs fall. This in turn slows the speed of the intake turbine, as the revs climb once the gear is engaged and the revs start to rise the turbine is fighting with the previous built up pressure remaining as it has not been expelled via dump valve, gone into a recirc system or gone into a cylinder via the valves. As the exhaust turbine has no pressure on the out let side this is where you get the mismatch in the forces which balance out as the turbo spools up again. The delay in spool up is what gives the lumpy changes Many cars had turbos fitted without dump valves or recirc systems for years and did not eat engines through running rich as an opinion and from an engineering perspective I dont see the point of drilling small holes in plates to fit behind a recirc valve unless they just want to generate the flutter in which case the wear would be to the turbo

venting the pressurised air to atmosphere as you would have being doing using the HKS causes the mixture to run rich due to the loss of air hence the reason for a recirc valve maintaining a closed loop circuit for fuel and air. removing the recirc valve and blanking it off means the circuit will stay intact but will suffer from pressure build ups - this shouldnt affect the fuelling as there is no loss of air or fuel, it will however impact the turbos ability to spool due to back pressure created

it will only affect the turbo as back pressure will be experienced - you will also find your gear changes are not as smooth as the turbo catches up with the change in pressure

Savage has one that may fit but I believe it is a top notch so may be a bit pricey for you given current circumstance??

Wotcha and welcome as mentioned stick up the add and also keep us posted of your progress

Not quite sure I understand what you have done - when fitting the HKS did you remove the standard recirc valve as you only need one or the other?