Jay762

I am not sure how drilling the thermostat will help as it already has a small hole to enable a little flow when closed and when heating up it will open fully so as soon as it gets warm you will have full flow to the radiator. Is it possible you have and airlock in the system?

Keep us posted - If you are going to look at the coil pack itself maybe consider a stick coil conversion from the later models?

Finally got the aircon working - turns out condenser was leaking so once I had replaced that and regassed I now have functioing cold air in time for autumn 😁

NA engines as susceptible to back pressure to get them to run properly. Removing the back box shouldnt impact it though. Did teh faults correct them selves when up put the muffler back on?

I have only read bad things about liquid gasket sealant and the subaru product steer well clear - blocked coolant passage ways leading to engine destruction

Given the age of your car it would not be a bad idea to replace both pump and filter. The stalling could be down to an electrical issue with the plugs or bad earth?? Are there any codes being generated? Check you hoses as well you may have a small leak somewhere Check this pump put as an option - allegedly built in the same factory as other branded pumps but I have had no issues with ICP service https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=14254&cat=3678&sub=3680&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=0&searchKey=&searchPart=

Just done mine on my impreza - condenser was leaking, replaced the seals on the pump as well whilst system was flat

Pedders do some good stuff, I would talk to ICP or get KYB stuts

Wow - thats sounds awful! I wonder if the beam can be adjusted by the sensors under the car front and rear - different length bars maybe to change the angle less?

Ahh I see - the radiator coolant overflow bottle, @Tidgy - any ideas?

If you are going that far I would put in a new set of bearings as well.

What brand is the FMIC kit - I have a perrin setup and there is no over flow tank?

thats your cars way of saying "we need to get out more" 😆😆😆

M PS4's do get consistently good reviews 👍

That is a great example - good luck with the sale

Not sure you will get one as you have a normally aspirated engine so in order for it to work (no flat spots etc) all the header lengths need to be the same.

Not by trade - started to keep maintenance costs down years ago and was always tinkering plus fixing the odd thing by the roadside 😁

I always go first click under control and then add a little weight to get second click

Fitted a resonated mid section, had to cut about 50mm - think they may have sent me one for the saloon? Quick session with the angle grinder and cutting disc sorted that out. Using a phone app, I recorded a 3dB drop (94dB to 91dB) which is enough to keep the identity but now (so far) does not make my ears ring on a prolonged spirited driving session Some comparison clips... Before After

Hi Jim - you should be able to diagnose the faulty area with a rudimentary flying lead (12v lamp and some wire) or multimeter. You will be looking for a 12v signal to the motor. Door panel easy enough to get off then check for 12v supply to the switch then 12 v from the switch the motor

As mentioned get a test done - You may have an air lock, is it losing coolant?

Worth messaging this seller to confirm PCD and offset - This site says they are the same https://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/outback/2015/ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393003802626?hash=item5b80da2002:g:T9YAAOSwYc5fpBtD

possibly ex dibble but look like a generic afteremarket set

looking good - try using this calculator to give dimension changes based upon your existing wheel offset vs possible future options. https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

lovely motor, good luck with the sale - As sales posts go you are missing the usual under bonnet / engine bay shot 😉