Tidgy

Excuse for a drive though :D

thats an !Removed!

99 ron all the way. Vpower or tesco 99 only.

Fully synthetic is what you want on a turbo'd car. 5/4- 1-/40 seem to be the preferred weight depending on who you ask. Cheapest place i find to be opie oils. I'd change yours to fully synthetic when you do the next change james

Oil and filter, if you saw how quickly the oil went off you'd understand. You don't want to be draining it when its gone completely black by that point its already mullered

Yea i loved mine, just a bit boring compared to the scoob,

np, enjoy it :D

Could be as simple as the ECU throwing a wobbly or a duff sensor, get it to a specialist to get it checked out. Try an drive it as little as possible before its looked at and keep it off boost and under 3k RPM

99 only, V power or Tesco 99. Better than the engine detting its **** off and shatting itself ;) Few good things for owning a turbo, 1. 99 ron fuel only (if you have to put lower in, put as little as you can get away with and make sure you stay off the loud pedal and fuel tank go as low as you can before filling it back to the brim with the good stuff, bear in mind more thats left in it the more the good stuff will be watered down) 2. Oil changes every 3k 3. They should drive smoothly, if its running lumpy don't try to drive through it. Get it looked at and drive it as little as possible before being looked at. 4. Keep on top of servicing. 5. Find a decent specialist, stay away from dealers for servicing and work, Even Subaru UK admit the UK specialists are a level above the knowledge even they have about them. 6. if you have mods done, use a reputable place and my advice is get it all done by them and parts from them. If something goes wrong and you have bought parts from all over you could end up in an argument about who's fault it is and you end up out of pocket with a broken car.

Sounds like an M3 lol

ECU is struggling to cope with the setup, Aftermarket ecu would be the best way to go (as you say syvecs). My old hawk struggled (forged 2.5 on an sc46+ with ecutek map). Didn't like idling smoothly when coming to a stop either cos of the mass of the turbo. Check out the fueling before 4500 and the way it plummets then spikes before settling, The T is a 450bhp turbo at 1.6 bar, so your bound to get a lower result at 1.3. I'm assuming its still running the MAF? Ecu wasn't designed to run that high boost or that much power, my advice bite the bullet and syvecs it. Different cars with different parts will get different results, but on low boost (as above graph) Basic spec, (Was held back cos of the top mount), but was single AVCS heads, standard headers, full decat and decat up pipe, sti top mount, sti inlet manifold, 400L fuel pump, 800cc (i think) and SC46+ mapped on Ecutek by pat Herborn. My current 2.5 is running less power, but on syvecs, you can see ont he graph how much smoother it is,

Simple answer get your current engine rebuilt by a reputable specialist.

Got a boost AFR graph?

Untill yesterday we had a cat, porthos, and a rabbit, mikey. Unfortunately Mikey had to be put to sleep yesterday so me and the mrs are totally gutted about it :(

Hoping this link works, chap from poland over for some work has his car stolen overnight. https://www.facebook.com/scoobyclinic.chesterfield/?fref=nf top post on the FB page

Thats the map rather than the hardware. Typically aftermarket ecu's are technicly far more capable than factory units. Why people replace them, even R8 and lambo's have them replaced

Hinteresting, wonder how aftermarket differ

Who told you that?

Personally i wouldn't bother with LPG

its roughly 23% iirc, although its so dependent on lots of things like tyres, gearbox and diff wear, what oil etc etc so once you it 400 your loosing near as damit 100bhp :o I'm not sure why it would only be running 0.5bar, should be around 0.9 standard.

gains vs cost simply put dont bother. subaru NA engines don't tune well cos the power is derived from the turbo. Also you can;t turbo n/a's that well because they use different compression ratio to a turbo car. Save your money and when time comes buy a turbo'd one :)

Gearbox wise alot depends on how you drive it, i killed a 5 speed on the isle of man at 280bhp (cant remember what the torque was at the time) and track work will not be easy on it. PPG, Albins or similar will do the job or a 6 speed as mentioned. Word of warning with the 6 speed is it adds alot of weight, 50-60kg iirc As well as the above mentioned items worth looking at oil cooling as well, after market kit (mocal or similar), make sure its thermostatically controlled though. Also i'd look at sacking off the standard ecu and chucking a syvecs on it. Not cheap, but much more capable ecu, plus when you come to sell it on will hold alot of its value. Will need to sack the MAF as well (syvecs will do that anyway)

as above 285bhp on 1bar seems a tad over optimistic, is it def running the standard turbo? Also 203 at wheels is roughly 250 at the fly, so there's about 35bhp over correction on the headline figure. They are both labeled as .009 so apear to be the same run

Sound wont tell you much i'm afraid, unless its running really crap and spluttering.

Its more about balance across the cylinders rather than how high. Doesn't look great with 1 and 3 being down, 3 looks pretty poor result