Tidgy

I thought the S got leather seats and sunroof?

100% fuel will be water **** now, wouldn;t surprise me if the fuel pump has siezed as well

now at lvl 20 :D

Hawk on are 2.5 wrx + sti JDM are all 2.0 :)

no, still on top mount matey. when gearbox is done will prob have one fitted sop can be pushed to 400 ish

no probs. things like that could be a whole raft of different problems, you could do loads of things and still not fix it where as a specialist who knows them should be able to narrow it down quicker and cheaper

Cant tell what gear the graph was run in, on a 6 speed it should be 4th which sugests when it was mapped it was running over 5500rpm

Given he issues your having i would recommend finding a specialist who knows what their doing.

got the power graph?

bit low for rev limit as standard, has it been mapped?

If I was buying a 2.5 then i would pick it up and drop it straight off for a bottom end rebuild (rods, pistons, head studs and associated gaskets etc, heads shouldn't need dooing), but i can tell you three things, 1. its pot luck if yours goes or not 2. its cheaper to sort the engine before it goes than after its gone, when they go they can in the worst case write off the whole engine 3. a properly built forged 2.5 will run 450bhp reliably for many years then if you rally wanna go the whole hog have it closed deck convert and go for 550, like i have haha

get it sniff tested as the next stage i would sugest

stood for 8 years i would expect some of the typical things like rocker cover gaskets leaking, crank seals leaking, plus as said a full major service. has the engine turned over since it was parked or is it literally sat for 8 years?

Full cobra race exhaust will do the numbers and is quiet enough for track days, no way will a nur spec get on a track day without a bung which will sap the power. yeah i woudl stay clear of japspeed, tend to find cheap parts are cheap for a reason, typicly they are generic parts thrown into a kit hence hte poor fitment issues

None of the 93 year model cars had electric arial so will be on the A pillar not the rear quarter, best link for info is here, http://www.type-ra.com/impreza-timeline/

I think they are totally different boards now, i may be wrong though

i hit level 16 tonight :D

Hate to say it but there doesn't seem to be any agreement as to what causes the failure, some standard well maintained cars go bang, some treated like crap don't. Alot of whats said in the vid is just good practise for any turbo charged car and especially impreza so is solid advice, but wont change anything as far as ring land failure or HG failure goes. Only true fix is replace pistons, head studs and gaskets. I suspect the only reason there seems to be less failure on later ones is cos there's less of them about, clinic's already had 3 2014/2015's in that have failed due to ring land so its still there as an issue and IM (subaru UK) still won admit there is any issue, despite loads of cars out there having a and in some cases several new engines within the warrenty period. Oil change period gets talked about alot, how its driven makes a big difference to when, 5k for a normaly driven car or 3k for a weekend toy is prob about the right sort of level, weekend toys tend to be driven harder than daily drivers.

I've got a custom billet gtx2871 on mine, on low boost (1.15bar) it made 330/380 on a 2,5 with v5 heads. Spool is pretty good too. No idea how the spec will result compared to your of course unless they are speced the same, which i dont have any info for im afraid,

Happens just as frequently in the UK. Just tends to be a case of IM fob people off. The 2.5 hasn't been changed much since it first came out, the engine is onto revision 4 or something like that now and the biggest change has been the ridges on the liners to hold them in place. Even the new one is suffering as well. The standard 2.5 block is reliable up to a limit of about 450bhp due to the boost level required to achieve that, (the higher the boost the more power typicly, so limit the boost, limit the power). People do get away with going to 500 on the standard block, however its a chance and as many seem to fail as survive. The liners on the block arn't that thick, which is what's limiting the boost. Because of that they also have a nasty habit of lightly ovaling the bore when push up the power band, closed decking can help that and 550 is roughly a safe working guide. Re-liner it and you can go alot higher, but there are costs involved in that and by the time you get to the stage a 2.35 is a strong and more cost effective option. Also have to think about what the car is intended for, a race car engine for example is a very different kettle of fish to a road car engine. Race cars are hammered, running typically 75%+ of their time on full chat, generating massive heat and pressure. Hence why their cost is alot higher and they dont tend to last that many miles by comparison. Depending on who you ask as to what's best will get you different answers, but alot of people in the know who have tried various different setups tend to agree the following as a rough guide for most drivable road used engine, up to 450 then 2.5 up to 550 then closed decked 2.5 above 550 then 2.35 bearing in mind once you hit even 450 then you can rarley use it on the road to its full potential anuyway

Isnt simtek and alcatek two different ecu's now? Sounds like you need to take it to somewhere that knows what there doing with them.

I got a few hours in last night, managd to hit level 8, if you like mass effect you'll more than likely like it

Its affecting 10's of millions of cars, seems to be affecting most manufacturers, List from america (but seem to be going world wide now) with some models to put it into perspective, Acura BMW (3 series world wide, 2000-2006, roughly 500k units a year so 3million cars) Chrysler Dodge Ford GM Honda (civic 2001-2005) Infiniti mazda nissan subaru Toyota

Should always be road tested even if dyno mapped, any mapper not doing a road test is one to avoid. Also so post map boost cut shouldn't be an issue, if so need to go back to the mapper and get them to fix it.

just for info 1 Litre every 1000 miles is the point at which subaru say the engine has a problem and needs investigating.