Tidgy

that top pic may have had a rear wiper conversion done, no arial, unless its an ra lol

Cam't really do much without invalidating yoru warrenty im afraid, not even exhuast

nope, not all new age have avcs, also some have single some duel. hawk wrx is single and sti duel, not sure other than that though im afraid. o r yours is a hwk wrx isnt so single

waiting on the heads to come back, bottom end is built :D pics in my build thread ;)

Check chassis plates and only use other things as steering wheel etc as a guide. Even rear wipers can be retrofitted. Why specificly a uk model? classic ST is a considerable step up on a uk turbo.

Sounds like toting for business, drop in some rods, pistons, decent head studs and head gaskets and you'll be safe up to 450 on a standard 2.5 block. Clinic have done dozens if not hundreds of them, sc450 pack. I've got a stage further and had the block closed deck converted hahaha

welcome

if you wanna go coilovers then tiens super street are pretty good, dad went from racelogics which were rock hard and failed twice within 18 months before he sacked em off. The ss are softer but still progressive so pretty good for fast road without breaking your back

rough area eg im in nottingham, is fine mate, gives us an idea of what decent tuners are near you

Looks like the exhaust manifold has been heat wrapped and its coming off. Hard to tell exactly what it is with the under panel still on

where abouts are you?

hahahaha might make the 12th of oct

grease nipple just hides the issue, once they nock the damage is done. None sti pedders are an option and not silly money

sorry to hear the situation your in. First off bottom end is a must, when the gasket goes water gets into the cylinder, water is none compressible so means the piston can't move up enough and subsequently pinches the bearing between the rod and crank. Problem you have is cheap means your prob gonna end up paying twice. 3k for engine rebuild is about right sort of ball park, being very specific with what is and isn't included. Also the exact extent of the damage wont be known till its fully stripped down and you get a full engineering report. Clinic are currently building my engine ( http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/15071-tidgys-project-type-r/ ) and there were various things that simply can't be costed until you know what's needed. Mine needed a block, heads needed the valve guides redoing which both add to the bill considerably, but better that than use a block that is way outside of tolerance due to taper on the bore or heads that the valves aren't guided properly. Come service/maintenance time your not paying costs for what the car cost you, but for what it was new. While it may have cos under 8k for the car, new it would have been near 30k. People forget that when they buy them. Scoobyclinic do all my work and you could always pop in and discuss options with them.

easy fix? it need a full engine rebuild pal

welcome. have a read here, http://scoobyclinic.com/performancetuning.htm

personaly i wouldn't use metal brackets, i would just use screws/bolts with a washer. idea being if you catch it the mudflap is ripped off, rather than the bumper ;)

Big jump in progress last week, Bottom end is now complete and awaiting the heads coming back from the machine shop after having new valve guides.

its a proper machined insert so not sure, you may be abel to ship your block here to have it done maybe?

welcome :)

Tidgy :D

At idle it will have negative boost, at low revs will go up to basic waste gate pressure, that why you see a little boost.

Unlikley, would be struggling to hold boost at top end i would have thought

sounds pretty normal tbh

Hahaha, been looking at road trips for past 2 months,,,, hahahaha